cost to build spec 996
01-15-2013, 07:16 PM
#106
http://racingshields.com/default.html Good reviews after doing searches here on Rennlist. I have just done the windshield so far but rear is next.
01-15-2013, 07:35 PM
#107
The Penguin King
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Rennlist Member
FYI, Spec996 runs on BFG R1's, not R6's. We chose the R1's because they don't heat cycle out as fast as the Hoosiers, and certainly not as fast as slicks. When you look at tire costs, it's not really the purchase price that differentiates the true expense of running them. It's how many heat cycles you can get out of the tires and still be competitive. Most of the SP996 guys find they can get at least two full race weekends out of a set of R1's, and then still continue to use them for practice/DE's.
01-15-2013, 07:41 PM
#108
Rennlist Member
FYI, Spec996 runs on BFG R1's, not R6's. We chose the R1's because they don't heat cycle out as fast as the Hoosiers, and certainly not as fast as slicks. When you look at tire costs, it's not really the purchase price that differentiates the true expense of running them. It's how many heat cycles you can get out of the tires and still be competitive. Most of the SP996 guys find they can get at least two full race weekends out of a set of R1's, and then still continue to use them for practice/DE's.
01-15-2013, 07:45 PM
#109
The Penguin King
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Combination of both. When you drive them hard, they are fastest for probably the first four to six HC's, but they stay competitive to about 15 HC's, and don't drop off very much.
01-15-2013, 08:15 PM
#110
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I just converted my I car to a GTB1 car. Huge fields at the big races and decent fields at the smaller races. Haven't seen very many Spec 996's on the east coast nor in Fla where the OP is from I believe. If you go with lower end slicks like Hoosiers or Yokes ( compared to Michelins ) they are only marginally more expensive than R6's. I added a cup wing, light weight battery, lexan, and took out passenger seat and saved about 80lbs. but can lose another 80.
2 years on my M96 motor with no mods besides a X51 baffle and so far so good. Stay away from LWFW with these motors. Or so I am told. Look forward to running against the Cayman Masses at Sebring.
2 years on my M96 motor with no mods besides a X51 baffle and so far so good. Stay away from LWFW with these motors. Or so I am told. Look forward to running against the Cayman Masses at Sebring.
The one thing that sticks out when I look at your car is the wing/uprights. Switching to the taller uprights really helped balance out my car. I bought Crawford's because that's all there was a few years ago but someone here on RL was making them up quite reasonably just a few weeks ago. See if you can get a set before Sebring.....
Post #33: https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...light=uprights
Last edited by jrgordonsenior; 01-15-2013 at 08:35 PM.
01-15-2013, 08:21 PM
#111
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....I think the best W/C car for our GT4 class is a 3.4 996. Cherniak kicks some butt in his and he only races once a year. Vali dominated in his 996 and won NASA's National's in 2010 in their GTS2 class which is the same multipliers as our GT4 class.....
01-15-2013, 08:32 PM
#112
Rennlist Member
15 HC's is reasonable. Biggest issue is that after 6 or 7 they take longer and longer to get up to temp, but that's not a big deal. Over the course of a season or two the savings really add up over the Hoosiers.
01-15-2013, 09:16 PM
#113
Rennlist Member
Agreed. I'm new to SP996 after running Hoosiers in E. The R1's definitely aren't as sticky but they do last MUCH longer. Hoosiers would last one race weekend and then could be used for practice the next weekend and then done.
15 HC's is reasonable. Biggest issue is that after 6 or 7 they take longer and longer to get up to temp, but that's not a big deal. Over the course of a season or two the savings really add up over the Hoosiers.
15 HC's is reasonable. Biggest issue is that after 6 or 7 they take longer and longer to get up to temp, but that's not a big deal. Over the course of a season or two the savings really add up over the Hoosiers.
This past year I finally learned that one set of sticker tires per weekend is the cost of doing business (in a competitive car and in a competitive class). Many of my competitors in E use two sets of stickers (per weekend).
If this isn't the case for the sp996 guys, then the BFG R-1 must be dramatically better (longer lasting) than the Hoosier R6.
What sizes are available in 15"?
01-15-2013, 09:48 PM
#114
The Penguin King
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I do a LOT of instructing, and there is usually a fair amount of time between races, so honestly most of the time i'm on stickers for a race weekend, but if timing works out so I have a set of tires with only one weekend on them, I will go out on the tires for quali and the races. Coinboy opened up a can of whupass on all of us at Hallett on "old" tires.
01-16-2013, 10:08 AM
#115
Rennlist Member
But do you guys really plan to show up at a big race (every race IMO) with a competitive field and qualify on a set of tires that already have 6 heat cycles (likely including an enduro)?
This past year I finally learned that one set of sticker tires per weekend is the cost of doing business (in a competitive car and in a competitive class). Many of my competitors in E use two sets of stickers (per weekend).
If this isn't the case for the sp996 guys, then the BFG R-1 must be dramatically better (longer lasting) than the Hoosier R6.
What sizes are available in 15"?
This past year I finally learned that one set of sticker tires per weekend is the cost of doing business (in a competitive car and in a competitive class). Many of my competitors in E use two sets of stickers (per weekend).
If this isn't the case for the sp996 guys, then the BFG R-1 must be dramatically better (longer lasting) than the Hoosier R6.
What sizes are available in 15"?
01-16-2013, 02:04 PM
#118
The Penguin King
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
