GT4 G81 Transmission Failure
#1306
Just looked up repair receipt. It was replaced in March, 2017. I think the part number was 981-300-020-BU with a serial number of 20030871. Hope that helps.
#1307
Originally Posted by jaygoldfarb
My April 2016 build qualifies for the replacement. That is even after having it replaced over a year and half ago. Going in May 13th.
Originally Posted by gac1077
Mine was replaced about the same time over a year, April 16 build and my dealer tells me I'm not on the list, do you know the part number for the transmission that it's on the car? Thanks
Garrick
Garrick
If the replacement was a tranny not susceptible to the same failure, why would it need replacing? This is why it doesn't make sense.
#1308
I decided to schedule my replacement sooner than I was initially considering and will be dropping it off this week. I heard a rumor that there was a limited supply of new inventory and they will use refurbished units once they run out. I don't know how much truth there is to that, and after asking my SA, his response was that currently all transmissions are new units...so he didn't exactly deny it, for what its worth,
Last edited by ndamiani; 04-30-2019 at 01:11 PM.
#1309
I decided to schedule my replacement sooner than I was initially considering and will be dropping it off this week. I heard a rumor that there was a limited supply of new inventory and they will use refurbished units once they run out. I don't know how much truth their is to that, and after asking my SA, his response was that currently all transmissions are new units...so he didn't exactly deny it, for what its worth,
They had no idea whether or not "later" units would be new or refurbished.
#1311
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 3,309
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From: On a pygmy pony over by the dental floss bush
The WSM procedure for removing and replacing the "trapezoidal pan" that resides under the gearbox states to have all weight off of the wheels before loosening any of the associated bolts. If you follow this procedure, a wheel alignment is not necessary. If you remove the pan (you must to replace the tranny) with weight on the wheels such as with the car sitting on a drive on ramp type of lift, you should do a wheel alignment after the pan R&R procedure. The indexing of the camber/toe markers on the adjustment cams does not help with needing or not needing an alignment. Here's why. The "trapezoidal pan" is a structural piece that ties the lower portion of the left and right suspension structures together. If there is weight-on-wheels when the pan bolts are loosened and/or removed, the bottom of the suspension structures can move apart or towards each other due to the approximately 850 lbs of weight on each rear wheel. When the pan is reinstalled, that will fix the lower portion of the suspension structures at a new distance apart thereby changing your camber and/or toe settings. I have removed/replaced my Boxster S trapezoidal pan to install the GT4 style "dog bone" brace between the rear anti-roll bar mounting bosses. I had no weight on the wheels when doing the procedure. I confirmed several weeks later when taking the car in for a new track alignment that the rear had not changed from the previous alignment. Of course if you are a stickler for perfection, have the alignment checked just to be sure after the pan R&R.
#1312
I just had my transmission replaced at 59,000 miles on my 2013 911. It started to bump between 0 and first. Eventually it failed. The dealership tried to reprogram it and told me to wait for the adaption procedure to occur. That didn't work. So Porsche put a brand new transmission in the car. Guess what? The new transmission is doing the same thing! The dealer just took it back. I am livid. What is causing this? Anyone know?
#1313
So here's my update.....dropped the car off yesterday and got a call this afternoon that she's ready to come home. I'll pick it up tomorrow and ride off into the sunset. My guy did grab a couple of photos of the surgery taking place. As someone stated above, I too have heard that brand new units are in short supply which is why dealers are calling to get this done so that cores can be sent back to Getrag for some refurb work......Phil
#1314
I just had my transmission replaced at 59,000 miles on my 2013 911. It started to bump between 0 and first. Eventually it failed. The dealership tried to reprogram it and told me to wait for the adaption procedure to occur. That didn't work. So Porsche put a brand new transmission in the car. Guess what? The new transmission is doing the same thing! The dealer just took it back. I am livid. What is causing this? Anyone know?
I’d suggest finding a suitable 911 forum only because the transmission failure in the GT4 is a known and confirmed defect in the third gear ring weld. I don’t know which transmission you have in your car, but it sounds like a very different problem from what over 100 GT4 owners have experienced (and just about all have experienced the failure in the same way: whether up/down shift or in third gear - it is suddenly no longer there).
I doubt that the failures recounted in this thread relate to your car. Of course others may chime in, and maybe someone has info but you’ve got a better shot of learning about it if you search threads relevant to your 911 model and year.
Best of luck and I hope it is resolved to your satisfaction quickly!
#1317
Just kidding - I use 'em all too.
No difference in mine. New box felt just like the original and I took it through all the gears on the way home.
#1318
just picked up mine today.defiantly a little stiffer especially going into first at a stop. The good news is the squeaking clutch noise is gone. it was the relase fork pivot just as i thought! carl
#1320
Joe , one other thing, have them check is the linkage. Theres a counter weight on the left side of the rear of the trans thats connected by a plastic rod. They can install it 180 out with the weight on top should be on the bottom and the rod on top or have it not snapped on to the weight. When i went to get my car it wouldnt go into 4-5 or 6. I had them put it back up and i could see the plastic rod wasnt connected to the counter weight. I snaped it back on the counter weight with the rod on the top and the weight on the bottom(opposite of what they did which caused the rod to snap off ) and now it feels fine.. As i said in an earlier post it is a little stiff but but normal. carl