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If MPG was your only criterion, then yes, I can see it as a "downgrade", but in every other aspect, the Turbo is an upgrade (with the exception of fuel economy...). Why "possibly temporary"?
Just got my refund from Etsy for the crappy hood badge.
Way to go Gus, now on to the real deal. Post up pics when finished.
I did my version of the 60K service on my 2015 CD.
Engine air & fuel filter, cabin air filter, engine oil & filter, topped off DEF, filled washer fluid, added a smidge of PS fluid.
The oil extractor makes for less work on the oil change.
[Flame suit on] I see it as more of a lateral move going from a highly-spec’d diesel to a reasonable-but-basic turbo. Both great little trucks; just with different personalities.
Break-evens: Versatility, tow capacity, handling, looks, sound system, interior specs, potential for fun, etc. Wins for the Diesel: Range, Fuel Economy, rarity (especially in certain specs), no transfer case or thermostat housing issues to worry about, no spark plugs/coils to maintain Wins for the Turbo: Power, no DEF, no “engine reseal” issues to worry about
Personally: I like road trips and oddball specs, and I think of the Cayenne as more of a “little truck” than a “big car”, so the diesel with PASM+Air wins (unless we’re talking about a REALLY loaded & unique turbo)…especially when we’re talking about a known-vehicle vs unknown.
“Possibly Temporary” because my wife and I would trade it in an instant for a well-priced, well-maintained Diesel that meets our specification requirements (they are very hard to find but we do have a lead on one presently thanks to a very kind forum member). To @RAudi Driver ’s point, though: that won’t keep us from appreciating, loving on & having fun with the Turbo for now! Let the spark-plug changing begin!
PS: I haven’t owned a vehicle with both spark plugs and cylinders in over a decade; can someone remind me how the heck spark ignition works
why not just buy back the diesel and swap over the motor, cluster, trans, lots of wires and ya got your car back again
why not just buy back the diesel and swap over the motor, cluster, trans, lots of wires and ya got your car back again
lol. Other than the lack of skill and time?
One thing we did actually discuss…
1. Cut the roof off.
2. Add roll cage and stiffen chassis.
3. Enjoy beach/pool buggy.
…if only I had the garage space wifey was actually loving this concept.
lol. Other than the lack of skill and time?
One thing we did actually discuss…
1. Cut the roof off.
2. Add roll cage and stiffen chassis.
3. Enjoy beach/pool buggy.
…if only I had the garage space wifey was actually loving this concept.
@FormerRotor For this project I'll recommend the 20v Dewalt cordless sawzall. It will get into places much more easily than a corded model.
Cautionary tale. Hope for the best, prepare for the worst.
I bought a 2018 Cayenne S with 22K miles from CarMax in October of 2020. They offered their complete B2B MaxCare warranty for $4500. That gives me total coverage for five years and until the vehicle reaches 100K miles. This is my first Porsche, but having owned a VW and an Audi which both required large/expensive repairs, I bought the warranty.
I use an independent shop to handle maintenance and repairs I can't or don't feel comfortable doing on my own. I've done brakes pads, rotors, & fluid, air filters, spark plugs, a broken window switch, added a trailer hitch, installed red seatbelts, etc. I use the shop to do oil changes and give the car a once over because I think the cost is worth the piece of mind and potential early warning when something may need to be addressed. At my last oil change I informed them that the car had developed a slow oil leak and she was pulling to the right a little bit.
Later that day the shop sends me an email link to their diagnosis, including photos, and their estimate. The oil leak is indeterminable, however they can see it is likely coming from the lower timing cover/upper front of main oil pan. They recommend "Reseal timing cover, valve cover gaskets, spark plug seals, belt tensioner/shock, replace timing cover bolts, clean thoroughly. May still need main oil pan reseal.". As for the right pull, "Vehicle tracks straight. Found both front lower control arms have play and rear bushing has split and leaked. Recommend replace both lower control arms and ball joints and an alignment.".
Total cost estimate for all services = $10,742.35
I informed the shop I have a MaxCare warranty which is fulfilled by Assurant. I give them my warranty number and they set about contacting Assurant to submit the claim. I get a call two days later that Assurant has approved all work dependent on an inspection by one of their inspectors. They inform me that an inspection should occur within 48 hours of the claim being filed. A few days later and two calls from me to Assurant to prod them along, the inspector shows up at the shop and approves the work in full.
I dropped the car off on August 8 and picked it up yesterday, August 31.
The valve cover work had been done through the first owner, by a California Porsche dealership, before I bought the car. My shop said they had to deal with excessive gasket material, many striped/broken/wrong bolts and other issues, while they made the repairs. The parts list on my invoice is a laundry list of gaskets, tensioners, seals, and bolts. Plus the new control arms. While it was not an engine out scenario, I was told that a lot of pieces had to come off to do the job properly.
All in all the $10K repair (adjusted to $8200 upon completion) ended up costing me just my $300 deductible (and the $4500 extended warranty) and all work, including parts and labor, is warrantied for two years.
Its a great car, but when things go sideways, things get expensive really quick if you aren't doing the work yourself.
Cautionary tale. Hope for the best, prepare for the worst.
I bought a 2018 Cayenne S with 22K miles from CarMax in October of 2020. They offered their complete B2B MaxCare warranty for $4500. That gives me total coverage for five years and until the vehicle reaches 100K miles. This is my first Porsche, but having owned a VW and an Audi which both required large/expensive repairs, I bought the warranty.
I use an independent shop to handle maintenance and repairs I can't or don't feel comfortable doing on my own. I've done brakes pads, rotors, & fluid, air filters, spark plugs, a broken window switch, added a trailer hitch, installed red seatbelts, etc. I use the shop to do oil changes and give the car a once over because I think the cost is worth the piece of mind and potential early warning when something may need to be addressed. At my last oil change I informed them that the car had developed a slow oil leak and she was pulling to the right a little bit.
Later that day the shop sends me an email link to their diagnosis, including photos, and their estimate. The oil leak is indeterminable, however they can see it is likely coming from the lower timing cover/upper front of main oil pan. They recommend "Reseal timing cover, valve cover gaskets, spark plug seals, belt tensioner/shock, replace timing cover bolts, clean thoroughly. May still need main oil pan reseal.". As for the right pull, "Vehicle tracks straight. Found both front lower control arms have play and rear bushing has split and leaked. Recommend replace both lower control arms and ball joints and an alignment.".
Total cost estimate for all services = $10,742.35
I informed the shop I have a MaxCare warranty which is fulfilled by Assurant. I give them my warranty number and they set about contacting Assurant to submit the claim. I get a call two days later that Assurant has approved all work dependent on an inspection by one of their inspectors. They inform me that an inspection should occur within 48 hours of the claim being filed. A few days later and two calls from me to Assurant to prod them along, the inspector shows up at the shop and approves the work in full.
I dropped the car off on August 8 and picked it up yesterday, August 31.
The valve cover work had been done through the first owner, by a California Porsche dealership, before I bought the car. My shop said they had to deal with excessive gasket material, many striped/broken/wrong bolts and other issues, while they made the repairs. The parts list on my invoice is a laundry list of gaskets, tensioners, seals, and bolts. Plus the new control arms. While it was not an engine out scenario, I was told that a lot of pieces had to come off to do the job properly.
All in all the $10K repair (adjusted to $8200 upon completion) ended up costing me just my $300 deductible (and the $4500 extended warranty) and all work, including parts and labor, is warrantied for two years.
Its a great car, but when things go sideways, things get expensive really quick if you aren't doing the work yourself.
Rule 1...
With my CD this is the first time I've bought an extended warranty. Glad I did. Great looking Cayenne there!
@Dave16 : those engines are known to leak from the timing chain cover and it used to be quite an expensive (mostly labor) repair, but as of a year or two ago, it has been updated as a $40 (parts) and a 2-3 hours of work fix with new bolts by Flat 6 Motorsports. I share this in case your warranty runs out and you need to do this again. Same applies for Macan S/GTS/Turbo. Here: https://flat6motorsports.com/product...solution-macan
Installed new wiper blades front and rear: cheap to replace, very fast and easy to change, huge difference in performance.
Polished (Bar Keepers Friend + Scotch-Brite green pad) door sills by hand. Very easy to remove (and very easy to bend them if you are not careful!). Perhaps not a huge difference, but it's all about incremental changes.... Here are some before/after pics:
Where did you get the side indicators? My CD needs more cowbell LEDs
Amazon
NSLUMO White Front Bumper Led Side Marker Lights for 2015-2018 Por'sche Cayenne 958 Clear Lens Side Signal Repeater Kit Replace OEM Sidemarker Lamps https://a.co/d/3njMOpb
DD a CD for years and I’m always incredulous at this comparison. The Audi 3.0L Turbodiesel cranks almost as much torque (500+ w/mild tune) as Porsche’s 4.8L Turbo at half the displacement and twice the MPG (give or take)
Add in CD’s much superior (and passive) Torsen diffs, no transfer case woes, no ignition maintenance, and major “unicorn” status at Porsche events, and really isn’t a tough choice unless you’re drag racing (an SUV??)
For guys who tow or off-road, CD was available with Air and they’re (rare but) out there. Personally I prefer the “planted” less floaty Porsche steel suspensions, but YMMV
(all the EPA junk on CD unbolts in a “flash” too)
Originally Posted by FormerRotor
Glad you got your refund!
[Flame suit on] I see it as more of a lateral move going from a highly-spec’d diesel to a reasonable-but-basic turbo. Both great little trucks; just with different personalities.
Break-evens: Versatility, tow capacity, handling, looks, sound system, interior specs, potential for fun, etc. Wins for the Diesel: Range, Fuel Economy, rarity (especially in certain specs), no transfer case or thermostat housing issues to worry about, no spark plugs/coils to maintain Wins for the Turbo: Power, no DEF, no “engine reseal” issues to worry about
Personally: I like road trips and oddball specs, and I think of the Cayenne as more of a “little truck” than a “big car”, so the diesel with PASM+Air wins (unless we’re talking about a REALLY loaded & unique turbo)…especially when we’re talking about a known-vehicle vs unknown.
“Possibly Temporary” because my wife and I would trade it in an instant for a well-priced, well-maintained Diesel that meets our specification requirements (they are very hard to find but we do have a lead on one presently thanks to a very kind forum member). To @RAudi Driver ’s point, though: that won’t keep us from appreciating, loving on & having fun with the Turbo for now! Let the spark-plug changing begin!
PS: I haven’t owned a vehicle with both spark plugs and cylinders in over a decade; can someone remind me how the heck spark ignition works
Went to Porsche Silver Spring in Maryland and had my auto dimming rear view mirror programmed. FINALY A TRUE RETROFIT AUTO DIMMING REARVIEW INTERIOR MIRROR!!!!
email Jonny at Jventura1213@gmail.com he is the technician that told me which wire to connect where and he programmed the mirror. The car needs to be on and the light switch on automatic. The headlights need to turn on and then the mirror will get dark if you put a light on it. It will not get completely dark if there is still light outside. The sensor is in the windshield so if it’s still bright it won’t turn too dark. I closed my garage and tried it. It was a lot darker in the garage with it closed. So the mirror turned almost completely black.
Last edited by porsches4ed; 09-02-2023 at 09:09 PM.
08-30-2023 | 06:20 PM
