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Rarely posted on the forum, but after a waayyyy too long time spent sitting, waiting for the power plant to be rebuilt, decided to do a very deep clean/detailing of the interior… noting like a 15 years old car looking just as new as 15 years ago, but still getting driven plenty!
deep leather cleaning with Chemical Guys Leather Cleaner pH Neutral and Bissel Carpet cleaner with hot water/soap dispenser… works magic! (The upload really destroyed image quality/clarity and richness of colours )
Made use of the unused sport chronometer. Removed it and installed something useful in its place.
I’ve been wanting to install a boost
meter on my car for some time because the factory meter is referenced and reports from MAP (which is pre throttle) and doesn’t display anything beyond 18psi / 1.2 bar.
I could never find a boost gauge that appealed to me aesthetically until I found this one by Greddy performance.
-Greddy Sirius Vision gauge
-Greddy Sirius control unit
-Greddy pressure sensor
The cool part about this product lineup is that the vision meter is able to be overlayed on top of a standard analog gauge which will provide a live viewing of two parameters.
It’s also expandable and the user can add different pressure and temp sensors and pin them directly to the control unit.
The control unit is also pretty smart for its size. Provides the voltage and ground inputs needed for each sensor and is the brain for data output & control.
There is also a OBDII plug-in harness available which when used will enable the display of all engine parameters referenced from the ECU. (I have not confirmed this on our cars and whether it will truly display everything a scan tool or Cobb Accessport would).
You can also link multiple gauges together with their unify system.
Install went well. Took longer than expected because I had to take the entire interior of the car out to plan the harness routing. Also had to identify my constant and switched voltage outputs, grounds and illumination wires available from the cars center console wire harness. For a clean install, I chose to put the control unit in the center armrest console.
It works well and is super accurate. The peak function you can set to any value to display a warning is also very useful to monitor consistency. I compared some readings against the factory boost meter and this one displays a faster and a precise reading to the _._x bar. there is a discrepancy in WOT at full boost when the sport mode arrow up is active; the factory meter reads 1.2 bar whereas the aftermarket unit reads a peak of 1.51 bar.
Interesting to see it in action.
*it should also make boost leak testing a lot easier. Simply do it the way you normally would, turn the key on to accessory and monitor what the meter is reporting and time the pressure bleed off.
Sensor plumbed and referenced from post throttle vacuum source.
Vacuum teed off from FPR. Sensor harness routed through the upper firewall into the cabin.
Control unit / harness
Highly recommend.
Do you have more information about the installation, any tutorial?
Do you have more information about the installation, any tutorial?
Pretty straightforward install. You will need to tap into a switched 12v, constant 12v, and ground to power the control unit which in turn provides the needed inputs for the gauges and sensor. The sensor should be plumbed to a vacuum source post throttle for the most accurate reading (our cars factory boost gauge has the reference point pre throttle which isn't 100% accurate on anything other than WOT). I chose to tee into the vacuum line for the FPR. Wiring the sensor to the control unit was the most difficult part, as wires had to be run from the engine compartment to the center console where I have the control unit mounted.
I had Josh make me a catless Ti exhaust a year ago also in pursuit of maximizing turbo noise. Only way to get max whistles and no drone is with 1/4 wave resonators. (By no drone I mean maybe 15% drone). Adding mufflers (like your old setup) reduces volume of the entire system (noise, whistle, and drone).
Before that I had a Speedtech catless exhaust without 1/4 wave resonators and it droned badly.
I had Josh make me a catless Ti exhaust a year ago also in pursuit of maximizing turbo noise. Only way to get max whistles and no drone is with 1/4 wave resonators. (By no drone I mean maybe 15% drone). Adding mufflers (like your old setup) reduces volume of the entire system (noise, whistle, and drone).
Before that I had a Speedtech catless exhaust without 1/4 wave resonators and it droned badly.
good to see a video from you, hope the trend continues.
Thanks! I'll try to keep the content coming now that I actually invested in a proper PC for video editing. A HUGE part of why I didn't upload for so long was because the editing process using a dated laptop was... time consuming to say the least. I have a video in the works and will be uploading shortly.
Originally Posted by arscottp
Nicely done as always.
I had Josh make me a catless Ti exhaust a year ago also in pursuit of maximizing turbo noise. Only way to get max whistles and no drone is with 1/4 wave resonators. (By no drone I mean maybe 15% drone). Adding mufflers (like your old setup) reduces volume of the entire system (noise, whistle, and drone).
Before that I had a Speedtech catless exhaust without 1/4 wave resonators and it droned badly.
Yours looks great!!! Agree with what you said about the resonators reducing the delightful sounds of our Turbo cars as a whole. This current setup I have right now is spot on what I was trying to achieve from the beginning. Josh is a true artist. I encourage anyone on here that is considering an exhaust system to contact him.
Are you doing the project as preventative maintenance?
unfortunately not, it had thrown a P0021 code so my left bank cam sleeve had spun. Once the shop got the cams out they confirmed that is indeed what happened.
The turbos are not stock and had more play in the impeller than we liked so they were sent off for a rebuild as a precaution.
06-03-2023, 12:46 AM
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