Nose lift, CPO, PCNA
#438
Installed mine today- lying down like Dracula in a coffin under the car-
hard to focus so close to it-took the picture to make sure blue and brown went back where they should.
You will need to remove the cap from the adjacent switch so the 27mm socket fits. It was very hard to loosen the old switch, and I heard a faint sound of air once it loosened-I re-used the aluminum washer.
I noticed the circuit board on the old one was moving a bit when I loosened the tiny screws-and come to think of it, 13Bar is around 180 pounds of pressure, so that was the end of its lifespan I guess. Many pages above on this thread, a poster said he had to remove the little Torx screw next/under the switch to fit the socket, I did not and didn’t need to. As mentioned, taking the plastic cap off the other switch was necessary. I just reused the old cap, the rubber seal etc was good, no need to. I did send out the new caps that came with the switch-
Also, I crawled under the car from the engine side, and did not remove the front underbody panel.
I’m still relaxing after the ordeal-taking out the middle panel was a mission-remove those 10mm nylon nuts and be careful tightening them up, should be a bit over finger tight.
I will probably do a drive tonight, though I am a bit beat from it.
John
Last edited by JB911; 05-01-2023 at 10:31 PM.
#439
Well, I've never seen the Lift come on so fast! 😂
I used it twice, but didn't hear the "swoosh" sound- maybe the priority is to lift the car, and the tank didn't get filled yet-
I'll drive again tomorrow-
JB
I used it twice, but didn't hear the "swoosh" sound- maybe the priority is to lift the car, and the tank didn't get filled yet-
I'll drive again tomorrow-
JB
#440
Does anyone know the proper tightening torque when reinstalling the new valve switch? The document above says 45NM but that’s probably the max for the switch itself and not necessarily what’s proper for the aluminum valve body which the switch screws into.
#441
Originally Posted by 8Lug
Does anyone know the proper tightening torque when reinstalling the new valve switch? The document above says 45NM but that’s probably the max for the switch itself and not necessarily what’s proper for the aluminum valve body which the switch screws into.
#444
thanks. 36ft/lbs equates to 49NM so close enough to what the switch spec states. I’ll probably do 35ft/lbs just to be on the safe side.
And JB, big thanks for putting this together. My FAL still works fine but it gives me peace of mind to have the parts and knowledge to fix it, should it ever need it.
And JB, big thanks for putting this together. My FAL still works fine but it gives me peace of mind to have the parts and knowledge to fix it, should it ever need it.
#445
I just sent a thank you note to Mr. Weiss at Suco in Germany-had I not contacted him initially, I don't think I would have been able to get them. I recall calling the FL distributor a few years ago and they pretty much said they don't sell to the general public. Once I picked up the order, I told the rep that there could be another order sometime, (and the minimum quantity is 5)
Also, there is the other switch next to the 13 Bar one, but the one that's failing is indeed the one we got, since with the extreme pressure it seems to have a limited lifespan.
My old one was suspicious, the circuit board had some movement. I took the pressure setting screw off, and there's a very strong spring under the needle screw-it looks like a mini valve spring. Obviously, don't touch that screw, the plastic cover gets attached above it of course with the flat screw. As mentioned, I didn't replace my plastic sealing cover, it was in good condition-
So anyone left without the switch and wishing to order like I did, could contact the manager at the FL distributor-they will ups it in the US. As I said before, I said nothing about it being for P-cars or any car at all, nor did they ask-so please let's keep the suco US connection in good standing-
My concern is that this is a public forum, and anyone could make an order, which might be fine, but then again someone could order for this cost then re-sell/flip it at a profit-my intention was to get them for cost and shipping only, for the benefit os those that contributed with the issues. And I was concerned that USPS could have lost one or more of the boxes I sent out-palpal worked well, but I was also concerned it would end up looking like a business and certainly don't want to do this again.
The 991 and 992 moved on to a different system, and you can search their groups for the issues they face, hydraulic leaks from their malfunctioning lifts 😳
I much rather have a pneumatic problem-
It would be good to keep a spare belt, since cdixon was able to identify it in Europe. So finding a US source might not be too difficult-
JB
Also, there is the other switch next to the 13 Bar one, but the one that's failing is indeed the one we got, since with the extreme pressure it seems to have a limited lifespan.
My old one was suspicious, the circuit board had some movement. I took the pressure setting screw off, and there's a very strong spring under the needle screw-it looks like a mini valve spring. Obviously, don't touch that screw, the plastic cover gets attached above it of course with the flat screw. As mentioned, I didn't replace my plastic sealing cover, it was in good condition-
So anyone left without the switch and wishing to order like I did, could contact the manager at the FL distributor-they will ups it in the US. As I said before, I said nothing about it being for P-cars or any car at all, nor did they ask-so please let's keep the suco US connection in good standing-
My concern is that this is a public forum, and anyone could make an order, which might be fine, but then again someone could order for this cost then re-sell/flip it at a profit-my intention was to get them for cost and shipping only, for the benefit os those that contributed with the issues. And I was concerned that USPS could have lost one or more of the boxes I sent out-palpal worked well, but I was also concerned it would end up looking like a business and certainly don't want to do this again.
The 991 and 992 moved on to a different system, and you can search their groups for the issues they face, hydraulic leaks from their malfunctioning lifts 😳
I much rather have a pneumatic problem-
It would be good to keep a spare belt, since cdixon was able to identify it in Europe. So finding a US source might not be too difficult-
JB
#446
Dealer replaced the solenoid switch/ pressure valves in December 2020.
To fix the problem of not being able to lower the lift by the dash button.
It has already failed again. Not sure when exactly, but w.in 6 months.
So, the switch lasted two years..
To fix the problem of not being able to lower the lift by the dash button.
It has already failed again. Not sure when exactly, but w.in 6 months.
So, the switch lasted two years..
#447
Assuming the switches remain readily available, I have no problem looking at this as a maintenance item to be done every few years. It costs less, and takes the same amount of time to perform, as an oil change.
#449
My entire unit was replaced through CPO after a polite lengthy dispute, on October 2016, hence this thread-
I think the entire unit was shipped from Germany, there were never complete details since it was an uncomfortable situation at the time. The dealer did exert pressure on my belief, initially the P rep on the phone was saying I'd have to pay a percentage-
So both Porsche NA and Germany came through and replaced it. So about 7 years, and I could tell it was taking a bit too long for the Lift light to come on, and the light on the dash button started blinking. The last time I used it and it worked, after a struggle, and then the swoosh, and I stopped using it until the new switch came in.
cdixon did a lot of work on the FAL and how it works, I posted some wiring diagrams from PIWIS, and there are also some details on the way the system functions. I might scroll and read the details again.
It might be a good idea to order the adjacent switch- I just received a $200 check from Porsche for the "Gasoline Settlement" which I had forgotten about and don't really know the details of-anyone else get theirs? It pays for the switches...
JB
I think the entire unit was shipped from Germany, there were never complete details since it was an uncomfortable situation at the time. The dealer did exert pressure on my belief, initially the P rep on the phone was saying I'd have to pay a percentage-
So both Porsche NA and Germany came through and replaced it. So about 7 years, and I could tell it was taking a bit too long for the Lift light to come on, and the light on the dash button started blinking. The last time I used it and it worked, after a struggle, and then the swoosh, and I stopped using it until the new switch came in.
cdixon did a lot of work on the FAL and how it works, I posted some wiring diagrams from PIWIS, and there are also some details on the way the system functions. I might scroll and read the details again.
It might be a good idea to order the adjacent switch- I just received a $200 check from Porsche for the "Gasoline Settlement" which I had forgotten about and don't really know the details of-anyone else get theirs? It pays for the switches...
JB
#450
Took a night drive just now- and as observed right after installing the new switch, pressing the button activates the Lift light almost instantly-drove a few blocks with it activated, and at a stop sign pressed the button, and then heard the swoosh sound from the tank 👍
JB
JB
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silviaks (05-03-2023)