When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i had the car in monterey last week and ambient was right aorund 70 deg. F, not what i would consider hot. Can someone quickly point me to the correct Suco pressure switch part #? I can't pin point what the correct part would be for a later build car (2011). Also, if anyone bought one from the group buy and it didn't fit, or aren't planning on using it, i'd be happy to take it off your hands.
Also, is it always the same switch that fails? Or do the others fail also? I think there are at least 2, if not 3 pressure switches on this pump assembly. Is that correct? Appreciate all of your help and research in this thread - it's been very helpful!
i had the car in monterey last week and ambient was right aorund 70 deg. F, not what i would consider hot. Can someone quickly point me to the correct Suco pressure switch part #? I can't pin point what the correct part would be for a later build car (2011). Also, if anyone bought one from the group buy and it didn't fit, or aren't planning on using it, i'd be happy to take it off your hands.
Also, is it always the same switch that fails? Or do the others fail also? I think there are at least 2, if not 3 pressure switches on this pump assembly. Is that correct? Appreciate all of your help and research in this thread - it's been very helpful!
if you scroll back through the threads then you’ll see that JB re-attached the document that I wrote on this. It describes in great detail all the operation and what the parts do. The FAL has three of these switches. All of them calibrated to different pressures. If it’s almost always the one that registers when the system reaches ‘LIFT’ that fails.
As for which version you need, I think you need to take it out and measure the thread as no guarantee which version was fitted to your car from what I’ve read before.
I’m on my phone, so harder to read and also I can’t attach my document.
if you scroll back through the threads then you’ll see that JB re-attached the document that I wrote on this. It describes in great detail all the operation and what the parts do. The FAL has three of these switches. All of them calibrated to different pressures. If it’s almost always the one that registers when the system reaches ‘LIFT’ that fails.
As for which version you need, I think you need to take it out and measure the thread as no guarantee which version was fitted to your car from what I’ve read before.
I’m on my phone, so harder to read and also I can’t attach my document.
thanks for the info. I'll study this more carefully when i have some free time and try and figure it out. I was hoping someone would have the most current info handy.
I installed it according to what was talked about in this thread. I’ll try flushing the lines. I’m also in SoCal so I’ll try and see if when the temperature is cooler if it functions more normally. I do remember seeing moisture when I removed the old switch.
Originally Posted by JB911
Try disconnecting the lines at the struts. Careful with the copper washers on the banjo bolts. With the front wheels up, run the lift to flush the lines just in case. You can hear the air if pump is working fine-I suspect heat and humidity is a problem, I don't use mine in the hot humid summer here-
Also, when you installed the new switch, did you use the aluminum washer and torque it down correctly? I tightened by hand, don't think there are torque specs. But of course there is a danger in over tightening, the block is aluminum.
Someone could organize another group buy from Suco in FL by contacting Eric. As I recall the minimum quantity was 5 of them.
But as mentioned I was told they don't like to sell to the general public and made an exception for me after I spoke to Mr. Weiss in Germany.
Other people might have made an order since this is a public forum, and I really hope the bridge wasn't burned. It appears Suco in FL is geared for industrial high volume sales only. This is not a parts store with a retail front and they made this explicit the first time I contacted them a long time ago.
So I would send them a polite professional email asking if it's still possible to order some-
Scroll up and the part number details are there, as well as the Suco FL distributor and minimum quantity to order. I believe I had ordered 10. One member couldn't use his but has since sold it; the early cars had the 13 Bar switch with smaller diameter thread. 2011 cars should be able to use the normal 13 Bar switch we all got.
cdixon, you did indeed provide the best info on the complete system.
Back in 2016, before PCNA agreed to replace my entire FAL, a friend with a shop scanned my car with his top of the line Autel Maxysys, and it seemed to indicate a thermal switch malfunction, it said "active".
Curious if you would know where the thermal switch is located, and if it resets itself like a circuit breaker, and if it can even be replaced-
UPDATE: I think I found a vendor willing to sell these (same pressure switch as the previous group buy, 1/4 BSPP thread newer FAL version) for about $140. Minimum order quantity of 3. I'm going to try and place an order tomorrow and see how it goes. Lead time was quoted at 6-8 weeks. If it all goes well, I can provide the contact info at this vendor in case anyone is interested in coordinating a group buy and dealing with the logistics of it all.
Sadly, I don't think the $60 price point is going to happen again as Suco won't sell them direct anymore (I inquired and they referred me to one of their distributors). I'm guessing $60 was their wholesale pricing. I'm fine paying $140/ea as it's still a deal compared to $400 from Porsche. Not sure if others will have more luck getting them to honor that price point, i'm only reporting my experience from today.
Did you speak to Eric at Suco in FL? When I picked up the order, he pretty much said they didn't want to do it anymore 🤦♂️
Someone might have placed an order after I did, who knows.
Were you referred to a US or European distributor?
JB
Did you speak to Eric at Suco in FL? When I picked up the order, he pretty much said they didn't want to do it anymore 🤦♂️
Someone might have placed an order after I did, who knows.
Were you referred to a US or European distributor?
JB
Turns out I have excellent negotiation skills 😂
I have a feeling Mr. Weiss in Germany was so nice he didn't think things through when he gave me the quote, and the FL distributor had to agree to it, who knows.
I just had to buy a new ignition switch and the price went up to about $300, when it has always been around $160 for the last 10 years or so. Flat out gouging from the dealers-
I've just thought of something-there is a valve to depressurize the system, like a tire valve. Might be a good idea to remove it(just like in a tire)clean or install a new one since these things are over 10 years old. A malfunctioning valve could mean a slow leak-
Also, here's a description oof the parts, and as cdixon found out, getting a compressor or motor is not possible. It was great that he found the belt-
And the instructions say that the full tank can have up to 17 Bar of pressure, or 246.5 ponds of pressure, so it's a lot! 😳
has anyone replaced the belt? can it be done with the pump still in the car? It looks like it would be doable from pictures posted earlier in this thread. I may order a belt and do it at the same time with the pressure sensor replacement.
There are a lot of details on the belt, see details cdixon posted- very cheap part and easy to replace with FAL in place.
Grab a coffee and scroll back-you don't have to read all 35 pages but it's not a bad idea.
has anyone replaced the belt? can it be done with the pump still in the car? It looks like it would be doable from pictures posted earlier in this thread. I may order a belt and do it at the same time with the pressure sensor replacement.
Yep, first thing I’d check if your system is completely failing. You’ll get the lift malfunction light on the dash after a couple of minutes as no pressure being generated. You can swap the £3 belt with the system in. Just remove the inspect over. Be careful though get as that’s a £35 part if you snap the lugs!!!!.
Yep, first thing I’d check if your system is completely failing. You’ll get the lift malfunction light on the dash after a couple of minutes as no pressure being generated. You can swap the £3 belt with the system in. Just remove the inspect over. Be careful though get as that’s a £35 part if you snap the lugs!!!!.
Thanks. The system is working OK other than the LIFT indicator not appearing on the dash occasionally, which prevents the system from lowering when pressing the button. It does lower once the speed threshold is reached. Figured I'd order and swap the belt as preventative maintenance while i'm down there swapping the pressure sensor.
I'm starting to wonder why the engineers wired or programmed the lift button that way? Wouldn't it be nice if you could deflate the system by pressing the button again regardless of the pressure in the system?
08-22-2023 | 05:00 PM
