Shaping up a new-to-me 07 GT3
#271
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http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...ension-12.html
http://www.planet-9.com/news-items/9...e-987-2-a.html
Here's a feedback from a customer who's not on forum-
Tom,
I wanted to give you a quick update. I’d been very unhappy with the Damptronic system since it’s installation. The standard mode was far too soft and the sport mode lacked a degree of refinement. The DSC unit seems to have addressed these issues nicely. I was especially surprised at how nice the car felt in base mode with the total elimination of the softness which had plagued the standard Bilstein system. The full track setting noticeably reduced front end dive under hard deceleration. In my mind the Damptronic upgrade isn’t complete until the factory control unit is replaced.
I can’t wait to see how the car feels once I’ve installed the upgraded springs and sway bars.
Thanks again for you help and for overnighting the controller.
JP.
I'm off for another 3-day track event. Have a great weekend!
__________________
PCA National Instructor
TPC Racing stats:
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup Am Champion
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge GT4 Pro-Am Team Champion
2022 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup & 991 Cup Champion
2020 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2018 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2016 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2013 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2006 Rolex-24 @ Daytona GT Champion
2004 Grand-Am SGS Class Champion
PCA National Instructor
TPC Racing stats:
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup Am Champion
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge GT4 Pro-Am Team Champion
2022 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup & 991 Cup Champion
2020 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2018 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2016 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2013 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2006 Rolex-24 @ Daytona GT Champion
2004 Grand-Am SGS Class Champion
#272
Our cars definitely have better cooling for the inboard pads! All four corners are the same after 5 track days. I know some people are against flipping the pads but not me. Perhaps the higher temp of the outboard is the reason for some pads delaminating. I don't think there's anything that can be done to make the temps more even. Any ideas?
Here is a relatively cheap mod that .1 owners did for rear brake cooling. We added the .2 OEM brake ducts onto the LCA. If you have aftermarket LCA's, you may have to tweak the ducts to secure them onto the LCA. Also, the shields should be cut for full air flow efficiency.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...olution-3.html
This mod may not address the outboard vs. inboard difference in temps. If I recall, there was some discussion on how the duct is aimed more toward the center of the disc, and how this may assist in dissipating heat from the inboard to outboard side of the disc. I do not know how they hold up under tracking conditions.
Part numbers are listed on post no. 1, and photos of the ducts and shield mod start on post no. 81.
Hope this may be a solution for your situation.
Last edited by chardonet; 08-08-2014 at 02:09 PM.
#273
Fantastic thread! I'm very much a newbie when it comes to suspension geometry and settings so the discussion did go over my head a bit. I will learn though in time though with this thread as a reference. Great find on your car at a Chevy dealer no less. You are so fortunate to have a career doing what you enjoy and the wealth of knowledge learned along the way shows.
#276
Thank you for following my thread and for your kind words.
I will tell you the answer if you buy TPC toe links. It's customer privilege information. Just kidding. But kidding aside, the company who made your toe links should answer that question since they designed it and I cannot speak for their design.
If you were using TPC toe links...wink wink...you'll need a bumpsteer test equipment and go through the exercise of testing every shim combination on the outter pin that goes into the upright until you have found the least toe deviation for a given ride height and for a given position of the puck. My approach is the set the puck first and then play with the outter pin shims. It takes A LOT of time to keep doing this in circle(puck, pin, then puck, pin, and again). Or you could just copy the effort of someone who's done this on the same car with the same parts.
The puck position does influence bumpsteer. Different generation of Cup cars specifies different positioning. And racing series also send out technical bulletins to race teams as to the regulation positioning of the pucks for different races. I think they do this to regulate lap times of the class leading cars. Every time we get one of those tech bulletins we start from square one. By changing the castor via puck position the car also can transform for loose to tight and vice versa. In some racing series, the teams have more liberty on adjusting the pucks, in which case the more advanced teams use this to their advantage by finding a position that favor that particular track.
There are a lot of variables to determine the best puck positioning for one specific car and it will take a lot of setup time and track time to find out. I mean at some point you are chasing 0.1 second of time with a pro driver. If you're not in to experimenting with all that then my suggestion would be either put the hole in the middle(stock location) or mimic the Cup car that's closest to your car.
I hope I have shed some light on the pucks without confusing you more.
PS- Some people like to use adjustable dog bones to change camber, that'll introduce another variable especially when the front bone is different length than the rear bone. We have discussed this topic before a few pages back.
I will tell you the answer if you buy TPC toe links. It's customer privilege information. Just kidding. But kidding aside, the company who made your toe links should answer that question since they designed it and I cannot speak for their design.
If you were using TPC toe links...wink wink...you'll need a bumpsteer test equipment and go through the exercise of testing every shim combination on the outter pin that goes into the upright until you have found the least toe deviation for a given ride height and for a given position of the puck. My approach is the set the puck first and then play with the outter pin shims. It takes A LOT of time to keep doing this in circle(puck, pin, then puck, pin, and again). Or you could just copy the effort of someone who's done this on the same car with the same parts.
The puck position does influence bumpsteer. Different generation of Cup cars specifies different positioning. And racing series also send out technical bulletins to race teams as to the regulation positioning of the pucks for different races. I think they do this to regulate lap times of the class leading cars. Every time we get one of those tech bulletins we start from square one. By changing the castor via puck position the car also can transform for loose to tight and vice versa. In some racing series, the teams have more liberty on adjusting the pucks, in which case the more advanced teams use this to their advantage by finding a position that favor that particular track.
There are a lot of variables to determine the best puck positioning for one specific car and it will take a lot of setup time and track time to find out. I mean at some point you are chasing 0.1 second of time with a pro driver. If you're not in to experimenting with all that then my suggestion would be either put the hole in the middle(stock location) or mimic the Cup car that's closest to your car.
I hope I have shed some light on the pucks without confusing you more.
PS- Some people like to use adjustable dog bones to change camber, that'll introduce another variable especially when the front bone is different length than the rear bone. We have discussed this topic before a few pages back.
Thanks very much for the reply I really appreciate you sharing your experience with us all.
I hope you don't mind I have a couple of other questions on the same subject.
Firstly, I have purchased a pair of rear 997 cup rear control arms, which I am fitted next weekend along with a pair of cup rear uprights (I already have the fronts), would you recommend leaving the castor pucks as there came delivered from Porsche Motorsport and just test the bump steer with the gauge with different spacers on the upright end of the steering arms. Then use the spacer with minimum change and adjust the castor puck after that if needed? Would you like to share a picture of the underside of your rear set up? I understand if you don't.
Also, do you just test one side and get it the best you can then just copy the set up for the opposite side or test that Independently?
Could you end up with each side slightly differently set?
Lastly, did you do the same with the front end set up?
I have the same adjustable castor pucks and steering arm ends with spacers for the bump adjustment.
Luckily I have usage of a hunter 4 wheel alignment rack and intercomp scales so I can adjust and tinker with my car at the weekend,also im borrowing a bumpsteer gauge.
Again I really appreciate all you help and insights to doing and working out all this stuff, your car is awesome.
#277
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I was just going to post a pic of the e39 m5 wheels. Remember those?Cool concept but ugly as hell looked like white walls! Your suggestion is much cooler.
#279
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Fantastic thread! I'm very much a newbie when it comes to suspension geometry and settings so the discussion did go over my head a bit. I will learn though in time though with this thread as a reference. Great find on your car at a Chevy dealer no less. You are so fortunate to have a career doing what you enjoy and the wealth of knowledge learned along the way shows.
Like any careers there are ups, downs, and challenges. This particular industry requires hard physical labor, sometimes in harsh environments. I will never become a millionaire doing this but it is rewarding in a different way.
#280
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Tom:
Here is a relatively cheap mod that .1 owners did for rear brake cooling. We added the .2 OEM brake ducts onto the LCA. If you have aftermarket LCA's, you may have to tweak the ducts to secure them onto the LCA. Also, the shields should be cut for full air flow efficiency.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...olution-3.html
This mod may not address the outboard vs. inboard difference in temps. If I recall, there was some discussion on how the duct is aimed more toward the center of the disc, and how this may assist in dissipating heat from the inboard to outboard side of the disc. I do not know how they hold up under tracking conditions.
Part numbers are listed on post no. 1, and photos of the ducts and shield mod start on post no. 81.
Hope this may be a solution for your situation.
Here is a relatively cheap mod that .1 owners did for rear brake cooling. We added the .2 OEM brake ducts onto the LCA. If you have aftermarket LCA's, you may have to tweak the ducts to secure them onto the LCA. Also, the shields should be cut for full air flow efficiency.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...olution-3.html
This mod may not address the outboard vs. inboard difference in temps. If I recall, there was some discussion on how the duct is aimed more toward the center of the disc, and how this may assist in dissipating heat from the inboard to outboard side of the disc. I do not know how they hold up under tracking conditions.
Part numbers are listed on post no. 1, and photos of the ducts and shield mod start on post no. 81.
Hope this may be a solution for your situation.
#281
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#282
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#283
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Firstly, I have purchased a pair of rear 997 cup rear control arms, which I am fitted next weekend along with a pair of cup rear uprights (I already have the fronts), would you recommend leaving the castor pucks as there came delivered from Porsche Motorsport and just test the bump steer with the gauge with different spacers on the upright end of the steering arms. Then use the spacer with minimum change and adjust the castor puck after that if needed?
No I didn't. At my current ride height, rate of front suspension travel, and available tire grip the front end works fine for me. I would like to map out the front toe curve in the future and see if I could make the numbers better but that's probably way overkill for a street car.
I'm afraid not. But thank you for asking. One time at a pro racing post-qualifying tech inspection the tech official told the top three qualifiers to take off one particular control arm for inspection while all three cars were in impound. The official then asked the rep from each team to a corral at a table. With all three control arms on the table(and the reps surrounding the table) the official looked at the arms for a few seconds and handed them back to each team rep. The first place and runner-up qualifiers had almost identical clocking of control arm puck and almost same number of shims. The third place guy had something completely different. We were all surprised that all were allowed to see each others setup. At that brief moment there was tension in the air and I think the official realized that he probably shouldn't have done that. To break the tension, one team rep pointed his finger at me and said "C for Cheater!". Then I pointed my finger back at him and said "SC for Super Cheater!" And then we all laughed, took our control arm, and walked away from the table. This never happen again. I'm sure the 3rd place guy made some changes because he picked up the pace. So the moral of the story is there are some things we just don't share...
Last edited by Tom@TPC Racing; 08-12-2014 at 10:29 AM. Reason: changed wording
#284
Like I said before in post #261, there are many variables involved in determining the best clocking position of the pucks. The factory position is generally a good place to start as long as you have parts from matching generation of car. Yes I'd use spacers on the outter portion if you were to use TPC rear toe link. FYI, 997 Cup rear uprights will not fit 997 GT3/2 street car rear shocks. Or should I say they "should" not fit as the shocks have completely different mounting at the bottom.
I tested only one side. You could test both sides if you want but I wouldn't be surprised if the number deviate from one side to the other by just a little bit. If you have a reason to believe there will be a sizable difference from one side to the other due to bent part(s) or bent frame then you should be spending your time and money to make things right before you do bumpsteer.
No I didn't. At my current ride height, rate of front suspension travel, and available tire grip the front end works fine for me. I would like to map out the front toe curve in the future and see if I could make the numbers better but that's probably way overkill for a street car.
I'm afraid not. But thank you for asking. One time at a pro racing post-qualifying tech inspection the tech official told the top three qualifiers to take off one particular control arm for inspection while all three cars were in impound. The official then asked the rep from each team to a corral at a table. With all three control arms on the table(and the reps surrounding the table) the official looked at the arms for a few seconds and handed them back to each team rep. The first place and runner-up qualifiers had almost identical clocking of control arm puck and almost same number of shims. The third place guy had something completely different. We were all surprised that all were allowed to see each others setup. At that brief moment there was tension in the air and I think the official realized that he probably shouldn't have done that. To break the tension, one team rep pointed his finger at me and said "C for Cheater!". Then I pointed my finger back at him and said "SC for Super Cheater!" And then we all laughed, took our control arm, and walked away from the table. This never happen again. I'm sure the 3rd place guy made some changes because he picked up the pace. So the moral of the story is there are some things we just don't share...
I tested only one side. You could test both sides if you want but I wouldn't be surprised if the number deviate from one side to the other by just a little bit. If you have a reason to believe there will be a sizable difference from one side to the other due to bent part(s) or bent frame then you should be spending your time and money to make things right before you do bumpsteer.
No I didn't. At my current ride height, rate of front suspension travel, and available tire grip the front end works fine for me. I would like to map out the front toe curve in the future and see if I could make the numbers better but that's probably way overkill for a street car.
I'm afraid not. But thank you for asking. One time at a pro racing post-qualifying tech inspection the tech official told the top three qualifiers to take off one particular control arm for inspection while all three cars were in impound. The official then asked the rep from each team to a corral at a table. With all three control arms on the table(and the reps surrounding the table) the official looked at the arms for a few seconds and handed them back to each team rep. The first place and runner-up qualifiers had almost identical clocking of control arm puck and almost same number of shims. The third place guy had something completely different. We were all surprised that all were allowed to see each others setup. At that brief moment there was tension in the air and I think the official realized that he probably shouldn't have done that. To break the tension, one team rep pointed his finger at me and said "C for Cheater!". Then I pointed my finger back at him and said "SC for Super Cheater!" And then we all laughed, took our control arm, and walked away from the table. This never happen again. I'm sure the 3rd place guy made some changes because he picked up the pace. So the moral of the story is there are some things we just don't share...
I fully understand not wanted to post a picture of you suspension at the rear, guarding the companies secrets is priority and a lot of time will have been invested in knowing a good set up that works.
With regards the rear uprights, my car is a 996 gt2 so I have the correct shocker fitment. I'm looking forward to getting them fitted hopefully this weekend, then setting everything up and trying it out.
I look forward to seeing the updates on your car and watching it evolve further.
#285
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Thanks Tom I really appreciate you taking the time to read my questions then reply with so much useful information I've learned a lot from it I fully understand not wanted to post a picture of you suspension at the rear, guarding the companies secrets is priority and a lot of time will have been invested in knowing a good set up that works. With regards the rear uprights, my car is a 996 gt2 so I have the correct shocker fitment. I'm looking forward to getting them fitted hopefully this weekend, then setting everything up and trying it out. I look forward to seeing the updates on your car and watching it evolve further.
Got it on the 996 rear shocks. You're correct they'll fit 997 Cup rear uprights.
997-type uprights on 996 is totally adapting parts from a different generation car.
This requires a lot of time to get right so best to just take your time and not rush it.
Will need to custom make hardware to mount the rear sway bar depending on whether you mount the drop links to the shock bodies or the new uprights.
Good luck.
Last edited by Tom@TPC Racing; 08-12-2014 at 07:56 PM. Reason: added comment on rear sway bar