Shaping up a new-to-me 07 GT3
#226
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DSC is active to inputs(steering wheel angle, brake line pressure, throttle angle, g-force, vehicle speed). The prediction maps of the active function are pre-determined. There are three different modes for the user to select on the fly. Each mode is active but has different peak stiffness.
Presumably your re-valved shocks are stiffer, in this case I'd try using all three modes starting with the mode with the softest peak first.
In regard to re-valving, keep in mind that stiffer just means is stiffer, its doesn't always translate to more tire grip. The popular believe is a certain spring rates must have a certain valving to match. While that is true to some degree, and we all have to start somewhere, but in racing we can't tune the chassis of a car by numbers alone. For unknown reasons we(and other race teams as well) have race cars which has all the right numbers but they aren't top five cars. So we throw the numbers out the window, as we are only interested in tire grip and laptimes. Another perfect example is certain Stock Class racing series that the rule book states that a competitor must retain stock springs and stock shock bodies, but rebuilding and re-valving of stock shocks is allowed. A saavy competitor would valve the shocks to be way stiffer than conventional wisdom. The numbers then would be "wrong" but he'll have enough resistance in his shocks for his car to behave as if he has stiffer springs to dominate the field. To those who haven't heard of this approach before it will sound completely wrong but the top competitors has been doing this for decades! If I can get the grip that I want and the laptimes put the car "in the hunt" then I disregard any conventional numbers. Again, the conventional thinking/wisdom/numbers are good to refer to as a place to start. Trust me, the very front running race teams rarely do things in a conventional manner. Each team has their set ways... Sorry got a bit side tracked from the original question.
Presumably your re-valved shocks are stiffer, in this case I'd try using all three modes starting with the mode with the softest peak first.
In regard to re-valving, keep in mind that stiffer just means is stiffer, its doesn't always translate to more tire grip. The popular believe is a certain spring rates must have a certain valving to match. While that is true to some degree, and we all have to start somewhere, but in racing we can't tune the chassis of a car by numbers alone. For unknown reasons we(and other race teams as well) have race cars which has all the right numbers but they aren't top five cars. So we throw the numbers out the window, as we are only interested in tire grip and laptimes. Another perfect example is certain Stock Class racing series that the rule book states that a competitor must retain stock springs and stock shock bodies, but rebuilding and re-valving of stock shocks is allowed. A saavy competitor would valve the shocks to be way stiffer than conventional wisdom. The numbers then would be "wrong" but he'll have enough resistance in his shocks for his car to behave as if he has stiffer springs to dominate the field. To those who haven't heard of this approach before it will sound completely wrong but the top competitors has been doing this for decades! If I can get the grip that I want and the laptimes put the car "in the hunt" then I disregard any conventional numbers. Again, the conventional thinking/wisdom/numbers are good to refer to as a place to start. Trust me, the very front running race teams rarely do things in a conventional manner. Each team has their set ways... Sorry got a bit side tracked from the original question.
#227
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Mode 1 is good for street driving, wet track, and bumpy track. Mode 2 is good for most tracks. Mode 3 is good for very smooth tracks.
The modes are selected via the PASM button. Each time you press the button it will graduate to the next mode. The LED light on the button is lit solid in Mode 1. The LED light will blink twice in Mode 2, and three times in Mode 3. DSC will remember mode that was used when the ignition is turned off. It remains in the same mode the next time your start the engine.
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TPC Racing stats:
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup Am Champion
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge GT4 Pro-Am Team Champion
2022 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup & 991 Cup Champion
2020 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2018 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2016 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
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PCA National Instructor
TPC Racing stats:
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup Am Champion
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge GT4 Pro-Am Team Champion
2022 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup & 991 Cup Champion
2020 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2018 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2016 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2013 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2006 Rolex-24 @ Daytona GT Champion
2004 Grand-Am SGS Class Champion
#228
Drifting
All three modes are active, in that it will react immediately to your inputs. The difference between the 3 modes is the peak of the curve for stiffness. For example, if the operating range of the shock is 1-10 (10 being full stiff), then Mode 1 would be at 7 at for its maximum stiffest when inputs demand the stiffest dampening value for an event such as heavy braking to reduce front dive. Mode 2 would be 8, and Mode 3 would be 9. Mode 1 is good for street driving, wet track, and bumpy track. Mode 2 is good for most tracks. Mode 3 is good for very smooth tracks. The modes are selected via the PASM button. Each time you press the button it will graduate to the next mode. The LED light on the button is lit solid in Mode 1. The LED light will blink twice in Mode 2, and three times in Mode 3. DSC will remember mode that was used when the ignition is turned off. It remains in the same mode the next time your start the engine.
Thank you for pm . I'm interested but waiting on feedback. Any improvement on track that you can provide overlay data?
#229
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Update after 3 days at Summit Point Raceway
After spending Friday, Saturday, and Sunday there, I am exhausted coming to work this morning! I did more wrenching on customers cars(brake pads, brake bleeds, sway bar changes, alignment, etc.) than I did driving. I missed two of my session because I was working on cars. Its all good, customers come first as long as I can perform the required task on site.
Anyway, I am very happy to report that my car is significantly more planted and more confidence inspiring than at the previous track event. Which was at the same track back in April and I'm running the exact same Bridgestone RE11 street tires. The car was good before, it just moved around more than I like, and now its just hooked up! The changes made were Bilstein Damptronics 500/720 springs, rear upper mounts, DSC, side muffler delete & opening rear bumper vents. I don't have data acquisition so the only data point I have are mph at different parts of the track. I saw 2-3mph increase at the slower turns, and 5mph increase at T10 which also led to a 8mph increase at the brake marker for T1. I like to think a fraction of the high speed improvement was attributed to opening up the rear bumper vents. Does it matter to me even if the vents didn't do anything? No. It just makes me feel happy that they are no longer fake. With the DSC using accelerometer input for individual corner dampening management the woolsey roller coaster feeling of the down hill slight off camber drop turn(between T4-5, aka The Chute) is reduced. I am also catching cars that were dusting me at the same track 3 months ago. Those cars are on R-comp tires. I used Mode 2 of the DSC all weekend. The car felt very balanced overall, the only thing worth noting(not a complaint) was slight push exit T6, which was easily manageable but it still was resolve by a driving tip I got from my friend KJ, who is an instructor/racer. KJ, like an angel speaking over my shoulder, said to give the throttle just a littlest of little breather to rotate the car(whereas before I'd the gas pedal pinned to the floor). BAM! No more push. I got the tire pressure nailed down to 34psi left/35psi right. The side muffler bypass did a great job of keeping the rear tire pressure stable so even on street tire I was able to tango with the cars on R-comps throughout the entire run session. In conclusion, I am completely psyched about the car as a complete package. I'm sure some of the mph improvement was my driving as a direct result of a better feeling, more confidence inspiring car that makes me feel sublime behind the wheel. Regardless, I'll take any improvement I can get from the car and/or driver. The only regret is I didn't try the different DSC modes as recommended by Mike Levitas(DSC developer). Will do that when I come back here in 2 weeks. Next mods on my wish list are stiffer motor mounts, rear diff work, and 18" wheels with R-comps.
In regard to the motor mounts, I'm completely for the obvious advantage, but has anyone logged the ignition timing before/after swapping mounts to see if the ECU retards timing thinking that there's detonation as a result of vibration?
Anyway, I am very happy to report that my car is significantly more planted and more confidence inspiring than at the previous track event. Which was at the same track back in April and I'm running the exact same Bridgestone RE11 street tires. The car was good before, it just moved around more than I like, and now its just hooked up! The changes made were Bilstein Damptronics 500/720 springs, rear upper mounts, DSC, side muffler delete & opening rear bumper vents. I don't have data acquisition so the only data point I have are mph at different parts of the track. I saw 2-3mph increase at the slower turns, and 5mph increase at T10 which also led to a 8mph increase at the brake marker for T1. I like to think a fraction of the high speed improvement was attributed to opening up the rear bumper vents. Does it matter to me even if the vents didn't do anything? No. It just makes me feel happy that they are no longer fake. With the DSC using accelerometer input for individual corner dampening management the woolsey roller coaster feeling of the down hill slight off camber drop turn(between T4-5, aka The Chute) is reduced. I am also catching cars that were dusting me at the same track 3 months ago. Those cars are on R-comp tires. I used Mode 2 of the DSC all weekend. The car felt very balanced overall, the only thing worth noting(not a complaint) was slight push exit T6, which was easily manageable but it still was resolve by a driving tip I got from my friend KJ, who is an instructor/racer. KJ, like an angel speaking over my shoulder, said to give the throttle just a littlest of little breather to rotate the car(whereas before I'd the gas pedal pinned to the floor). BAM! No more push. I got the tire pressure nailed down to 34psi left/35psi right. The side muffler bypass did a great job of keeping the rear tire pressure stable so even on street tire I was able to tango with the cars on R-comps throughout the entire run session. In conclusion, I am completely psyched about the car as a complete package. I'm sure some of the mph improvement was my driving as a direct result of a better feeling, more confidence inspiring car that makes me feel sublime behind the wheel. Regardless, I'll take any improvement I can get from the car and/or driver. The only regret is I didn't try the different DSC modes as recommended by Mike Levitas(DSC developer). Will do that when I come back here in 2 weeks. Next mods on my wish list are stiffer motor mounts, rear diff work, and 18" wheels with R-comps.
In regard to the motor mounts, I'm completely for the obvious advantage, but has anyone logged the ignition timing before/after swapping mounts to see if the ECU retards timing thinking that there's detonation as a result of vibration?
Last edited by Tom@TPC Racing; 07-22-2014 at 10:18 AM. Reason: cleaned up sentences
#230
Tom,
my GT3 had solid mount for engine (like cup part), with still RS engine mounting plate (not the red cup part) and stock gearbox mount (very flexy indeed ....)
Yes , I can feel vibrations a lot more, but ECU doesn't seem to change anything to timing
my GT3 had solid mount for engine (like cup part), with still RS engine mounting plate (not the red cup part) and stock gearbox mount (very flexy indeed ....)
Yes , I can feel vibrations a lot more, but ECU doesn't seem to change anything to timing
#231
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Thanks you for the info.
#232
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About the rear bumper vents...
Now I know for sure why the rear bumper vents are blocked off on street cars. The rear section of the car gets very dirty in no time! It actually dirtier than it appears in the photo. I am okay with it since I am more about function/performance than looks.
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Robocop305 (11-08-2023)
#233
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Tom, great information. Thanks for sharing.
#234
Hopeful that means the vents are now venting and the dirt is being drawn out. i.e a pressure drop under the car. I guess you did to much at once to see if the car felt stable because of this and not down to the other group of mods you have done.
#235
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I could tape the vents off from the outside and do one lap just to see if the mph change between the exit of T10 to brake marker of T1 at Summit Point when I go back in two weeks...if there a 2mph gain then I'd consider this experiment a success.
Last edited by Tom@TPC Racing; 07-24-2014 at 11:36 AM.
#236
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^ The vents do help increase speed and reduce pressure. If not Grand-AM wouldn't have made the teams close them, especially in the .2 bumpers.
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#239
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#240
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