My 997 GT2 Track Build
#31
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And how many of the GT2s are tracked like the GT3s?
And how many GT2s that are tracked have replaced the OE Flywheel with the RS LWFW?
And how many of the GT2s that are tracked, have a LWFW and have NOT replaced the pulley?
And, how many of the above, are on Rennlist reading and posting all the time? - the answer to the last one has to be less than 3 cars.
There are numerous GT3s who have had this happen who did not originally replace the pulley - as it was not know at the time. I was one of the first 997GT3s to order and install the LWFW (early 2007) - it took 4 years for it to happen to me - on other cars it has happened very quickly - and I know of at least one car it happened to 2x before the RS pulley was installed and the bolt loctited.
Now, it may be that the GT2 with lower rpms never runs into the supposed harmonic issues that apparently are the cause of this?
I just assumed (I could be incorrect) that the GT2RS with the LWFW has the lightened aluminum RS pulley - this information can be easily obtained. Whatever Porsche has done on the GT2RS is what I would do.
I just emailed my parts guy - he will get back to me about the GT2RS
#32
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They should be the same GT2 and GT3 share the same chassis.
According to people on the Motorsports world, the Ohlins are great, but very hard to set up if compared to KW's
According to people on the Motorsports world, the Ohlins are great, but very hard to set up if compared to KW's
#33
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How many GT2s are there compared to GT3s?
And how many of the GT2s are tracked like the GT3s?
And how many GT2s that are tracked have replaced the OE Flywheel with the RS LWFW?
And how many of the GT2s that are tracked, have a LWFW and have NOT replaced the pulley?
And, how many of the above, are on Rennlist reading and posting all the time? - the answer to the last .....
And how many of the GT2s are tracked like the GT3s?
And how many GT2s that are tracked have replaced the OE Flywheel with the RS LWFW?
And how many of the GT2s that are tracked, have a LWFW and have NOT replaced the pulley?
And, how many of the above, are on Rennlist reading and posting all the time? - the answer to the last .....
#34
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It's a shock. How hard can it be to set up? Set ride height, set shock to recommended starting points, drive a few laps, change one end at a time to record handling and lap time difference. It's not rocket science. For my car we are within 5 clicks of bump on the rear for pretty good handling at PBIR, no idea about other tracks since it was just installed. Recommended factory settings were good for street use, smooth enough for me. Then again I race karts...
#35
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Not rocket science for sure, just time consuming... and can be a pain in the ***. Be there done that with my 3 way motons. If you have someone to wrench for you no big deal, as long as the driver is capable of giving the right feedback.
I don't race karts anymore.... getting old and I'm 225lbs not a good thing for that.
I don't race karts anymore.... getting old and I'm 225lbs not a good thing for that.
#36
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My car came back to me today, although with the crazy Thanksgiving traffic I won't take it out until tomorrow when everyone's overdosed on turkey and pie. Drivability on the track is greatly improved over the 3.6l. I didn't necessarily want more power (but got it anyways) but rather wanted a stouter motor.
#37
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Not rocket science for sure, just time consuming... and can be a pain in the ***. Be there done that with my 3 way motons. If you have someone to wrench for you no big deal, as long as the driver is capable of giving the right feedback.
I don't race karts anymore.... getting old and I'm 225lbs not a good thing for that.
I don't race karts anymore.... getting old and I'm 225lbs not a good thing for that.
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#39
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997gt3north- Thanks for the heads up, I thought the RS pulley is only for GT3's that want to get the lwfw and not GT2's as both my dealer and vendor didnt mention anything regarding getting the RS pulley when I ordered the lwfw and clutch and installing it at the delear twice in the span of a year and a half.
Are you definite that I need to get this conversion ? Does the GT2RS run the same RS pulley as well ?
From where can I source these parts as it would take probably weeks for my dealer to get them ? Suncoast? Any vendor selling all the parts required for the RS pulley conversion ?
Thanks again for the heads up
Are you definite that I need to get this conversion ? Does the GT2RS run the same RS pulley as well ?
From where can I source these parts as it would take probably weeks for my dealer to get them ? Suncoast? Any vendor selling all the parts required for the RS pulley conversion ?
Thanks again for the heads up
I take back what I said about changing to the RS pulley - either Porsche forgot to make it a GT2RS part number - or, the lower RPMs of the Turbo engine makes the 'harmonics' a non issue.
I personally find this strange - but that is the answer.
#40
Race Car
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: With A Manual Transmission
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Careful, add a sequential, cup aero, cup ABS and slicks and the GT2 could beat the Cup on longer tracks.
A 997.1 cup will not out accelerate a 997 GT2.
A 997.1 cup will not out accelerate a 997 GT2.
Lighter car is always better than a faster car to equal out the heavy weight.
997.1 Cup = 2750/390 whp = 7.33 lbs/hp
997 GT2 = 3450/470 whp = 7.34 lbs/hp
Car have virtually identical wt/hp ratings and would be in the same GT class but the cup would run circles around the GT2 because it would out break, accelerate, and out corner the heavier car even with more HP... (not trying to start a GT2 vs cup debate..just showing that imo more power is not the answer to covering more weight)
But if you can loose 300 lbs.. that car would be a absolute monster!!!!!!!!!!
It was absolutely amazing how much better my car was once i stripped and gutted it and took 300+ lbs out of it. The car was 1000% better in all ways. It really changed the way I felt about power and made me appreciate very lightweight cars like and Exige S.
997.1 Cup = 2750/390 whp = 7.33 lbs/hp
997 GT2 = 3450/470 whp = 7.34 lbs/hp
Car have virtually identical wt/hp ratings and would be in the same GT class but the cup would run circles around the GT2 because it would out break, accelerate, and out corner the heavier car even with more HP... (not trying to start a GT2 vs cup debate..just showing that imo more power is not the answer to covering more weight)
But if you can loose 300 lbs.. that car would be a absolute monster!!!!!!!!!!
It was absolutely amazing how much better my car was once i stripped and gutted it and took 300+ lbs out of it. The car was 1000% better in all ways. It really changed the way I felt about power and made me appreciate very lightweight cars like and Exige S.
#42
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I spent 15 minutes on the phone with my parts guy. We went over all the part numbers for pulleys for GT3s, GT2s, TTs, GT3RSs, GT2RSs. The answer is, all TTs 996s and 997s share the same pulley - including the GT2 996 and 997 that have the dual mass flywheel AND the GT2RS with the single mass flywheel. Given the problems with the GT3s that have changed to the lwfw, this surprised my parts guy. But that is the answer, all TTs 996 and 997 share the same pulley AND it is not the 'Race' coded part that is the RS part that I was referring to - the GT2RS runs the Turbo pulley.
I take back what I said about changing to the RS pulley - either Porsche forgot to make it a GT2RS part number - or, the lower RPMs of the Turbo engine makes the 'harmonics' a non issue.
I personally find this strange - but that is the answer.
I take back what I said about changing to the RS pulley - either Porsche forgot to make it a GT2RS part number - or, the lower RPMs of the Turbo engine makes the 'harmonics' a non issue.
I personally find this strange - but that is the answer.
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#44
Former Vendor
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From the PET ( rev 7.0 update 226/21 ):
996 102 017 93 Pulley GT3-II
996 102 017 95 Pulley GT3-II / I004 = GT3RS
996 102 017 72 Pulley 997 turbo
OTH PDF-PET dated from OCT/2006 gives just ...93 for GT3 and ...72 for turbo.
996 102 017 93 Pulley GT3-II
996 102 017 95 Pulley GT3-II / I004 = GT3RS
996 102 017 72 Pulley 997 turbo
OTH PDF-PET dated from OCT/2006 gives just ...93 for GT3 and ...72 for turbo.
#45
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Update - Hoosiers arrived just waiting for my bbs e88 which will arrive by the end of the month to mount them. All of the suspension parts have arrived as well and will be fitted this week with spark plugs, brake pads, SS lines, and changing brake fluid. Body parts are still on the way.
I ordered Motive brake bleeding kit from Motive through Marco, a great a guy to deal with. As I've read somewhere that it may be difficult to remove the remaining brake fluid from the ABS tank which is supposed to be done through PWIS and also just incase the dealer messes it up as they did last track season and I can brake bleed them on the track.
Regarding the suspension for me to run -3 camber its not possible on the GT2 as maximum is -1.8 which I guess is the same for the GT3. I've searched through the forum and found out that it should be done through rotating the camber plate/strut top to gain up to -3 camber or by adding shims if not both needed. The same for the rear for me to run -2.5. So which is it ? And do you think that its an easy task for the dealer to rotate the strut top ? and do I need GT3 cup control arms either in front or rear for me to add shims ? For me to run -3 fr and -2.5 rr what shims should I get if I need them ? What Im asking may have been repeated a lot but I cant find a definite answer and especially for the GT2.
This is the alignment settings that I want to run:
Camber FR -3.0 RR -2.5
FR 2mm toe-out (1 per side)
RR 4mm toe-in (2 per side)
Based upon what other members are running on GT2's and what NJ-GT used to run for his previous GT3RS
I highly appreciate your replies and comments for me to achieve my goal.
Thanks
p.s. I will update this thread as stated earlier with driving impression both on street and track
I ordered Motive brake bleeding kit from Motive through Marco, a great a guy to deal with. As I've read somewhere that it may be difficult to remove the remaining brake fluid from the ABS tank which is supposed to be done through PWIS and also just incase the dealer messes it up as they did last track season and I can brake bleed them on the track.
Regarding the suspension for me to run -3 camber its not possible on the GT2 as maximum is -1.8 which I guess is the same for the GT3. I've searched through the forum and found out that it should be done through rotating the camber plate/strut top to gain up to -3 camber or by adding shims if not both needed. The same for the rear for me to run -2.5. So which is it ? And do you think that its an easy task for the dealer to rotate the strut top ? and do I need GT3 cup control arms either in front or rear for me to add shims ? For me to run -3 fr and -2.5 rr what shims should I get if I need them ? What Im asking may have been repeated a lot but I cant find a definite answer and especially for the GT2.
This is the alignment settings that I want to run:
Camber FR -3.0 RR -2.5
FR 2mm toe-out (1 per side)
RR 4mm toe-in (2 per side)
Based upon what other members are running on GT2's and what NJ-GT used to run for his previous GT3RS
I highly appreciate your replies and comments for me to achieve my goal.
Thanks
p.s. I will update this thread as stated earlier with driving impression both on street and track