My 997 GT2 Track Build
11-23-2011, 09:27 AM
#19
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i modded one pretty heavily it was quite fun car... i kept the carpets AC and radio made it a sleeper underneath cup uprights motons etc.. fun to run 2:00 at vir with ac on !
the best exhaust i had was the GMG world challenge! sounded insane
the best exhaust i had was the GMG world challenge! sounded insane
11-23-2011, 11:51 AM
#20
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Awesome! I hope you enjoy it.
I found the biggest challenge for these cars is dialing out understeer without giving up the ability to use all the torque out of the corner. It can be a tricky balance considering the number of changes you're making......sways, diff, geometry, etc...
How about spring rate?
I put '10 CUP brakes on mine and have been very happy.
I also put the GT2RS frt spoiler and CF wing extension on and would recommend.
Agree on the diet! Mine weighed in at 3585lbs with driver and full gas.
I found the biggest challenge for these cars is dialing out understeer without giving up the ability to use all the torque out of the corner. It can be a tricky balance considering the number of changes you're making......sways, diff, geometry, etc...
How about spring rate?
I put '10 CUP brakes on mine and have been very happy.
I also put the GT2RS frt spoiler and CF wing extension on and would recommend.
Agree on the diet! Mine weighed in at 3585lbs with driver and full gas.
Im running stock shocks and from what I was told I cant run different springs without changing a couple of parts so I decided to keep them stock and by next track season I might get moton clubsport or Ohlins if they produce shocks for the GT2.
The same goes for brakes next season im converting to steel brakes and by the time I'll choose a which ones.
Diet will be the last mod I do as it will be the most expensive and im not that keen of stripping my car in the near future, but maybe cup car doors and carbon fibre hood and fenders.
11-23-2011, 11:59 AM
#22
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And whenever I decide to strip my car and get lighter parts I'll defiantly ask you to help me choose the right parts and methods to lose as much weight as possible, losing 300 lbs will defiantly be in cup car territory !!
11-23-2011, 12:06 PM
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Ive been running lwfw for more than a year now from my old clutch setup, the revs are just great and heal-and-toe is far more fun and easier now, throttle response is just great, there isnt anything not to like about it except to some the chatter noise is a bit loud which isnt an issue but gets a bit louder when the A/C is opened. I dont mind the chatter at all, defiantly worth it.
11-23-2011, 12:12 PM
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Regarding exhaust I searched a lot but couldn't find enough videos to determine which one to get as the video quality was bad in terms of sound. I was actually between GMG 3.5'' piping GT2RS SS exhaust and M&M 2.75'' titanium exhaust but then decided to skip the exhaust as the power gains is gong to be minimal as i'm running cat bypass pipes.
11-23-2011, 12:24 PM
#26
When they install the new pulley have them use red loctite on the new bolt to secure it. This job is only a couple hours of labor and you definitely should do it. The bolt is the same as the old bolt but longer as a metal washer is used to push against the aluminum pulley so as not to wreck the pulley. The bolt for the aluminum pulley uses 125ft#s of force - way less than the 250#s for the steel pulley - thus red loctite is a must in my opinion.
11-23-2011, 01:40 PM
#27
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My stock pulley took almost 4 years to back out - but I guarantee you it will if you are running the LWFW. A new belt, RS pulley, the longer pulley bolt and required metal washer is less than $200 in parts - you should absolutely do this. You do not want your pulley bolt backing out, losing your power steering on the track, boiling your coolant and possibly causing a write-off of your toy for $200 worth of parts.
When they install the new pulley have them use red loctite on the new bolt to secure it. This job is only a couple hours of labor and you definitely should do it. The bolt is the same as the old bolt but longer as a metal washer is used to push against the aluminum pulley so as not to wreck the pulley. The bolt for the aluminum pulley uses 125ft#s of force - way less than the 250#s for the steel pulley - thus red loctite is a must in my opinion.
When they install the new pulley have them use red loctite on the new bolt to secure it. This job is only a couple hours of labor and you definitely should do it. The bolt is the same as the old bolt but longer as a metal washer is used to push against the aluminum pulley so as not to wreck the pulley. The bolt for the aluminum pulley uses 125ft#s of force - way less than the 250#s for the steel pulley - thus red loctite is a must in my opinion.
11-23-2011, 01:53 PM
#28
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Yes I agree regarding the car understeers a lot, but hopefully I'll figure it out with different settings. If you dont mind may you please provide us with what alignment settings your running or pm.
Im running stock shocks and from what I was told I cant run different springs without changing a couple of parts so I decided to keep them stock and by next track season I might get moton clubsport or Ohlins if they produce shocks for the GT2.
The same goes for brakes next season im converting to steel brakes and by the time I'll choose a which ones.
Diet will be the last mod I do as it will be the most expensive and im not that keen of stripping my car in the near future, but maybe cup car doors and carbon fibre hood and fenders.
Im running stock shocks and from what I was told I cant run different springs without changing a couple of parts so I decided to keep them stock and by next track season I might get moton clubsport or Ohlins if they produce shocks for the GT2.
The same goes for brakes next season im converting to steel brakes and by the time I'll choose a which ones.
Diet will be the last mod I do as it will be the most expensive and im not that keen of stripping my car in the near future, but maybe cup car doors and carbon fibre hood and fenders.
For the cost difference of the carbon fiber cha-cha you can get the Ohlins kit. Much better use of your cash if you ask me.
11-23-2011, 02:07 PM
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997gt3north- Thanks for the heads up, I thought the RS pulley is only for GT3's that want to get the lwfw and not GT2's as both my dealer and vendor didnt mention anything regarding getting the RS pulley when I ordered the lwfw and clutch and installing it at the delear twice in the span of a year and a half.
Are you definite that I need to get this conversion ? Does the GT2RS run the same RS pulley as well ?
From where can I source these parts as it would take probably weeks for my dealer to get them ? Suncoast? Any vendor selling all the parts required for the RS pulley conversion ?
Thanks again for the heads up
Are you definite that I need to get this conversion ? Does the GT2RS run the same RS pulley as well ?
From where can I source these parts as it would take probably weeks for my dealer to get them ? Suncoast? Any vendor selling all the parts required for the RS pulley conversion ?
Thanks again for the heads up
11-23-2011, 02:14 PM
#30
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The Ohlins CS kit is what I have on my car (Champion Motorsport spec). Tested it at PBIR a couple of weeks ago. Significant difference over stock. Car does not throw ABS lights over stutters, front end can be tuned aggressively to counter the understeer (tuned with rear shock bump settings). Stock shocks/springs are quite pathetic in my opinion, not worthy of the car cost at all. I have Motons on another car but the Ohlins kit for this car, as a "drop in" kit, is far better FOR WHAT I USE IT FOR (50% track/50% road, full weight).
For the cost difference of the carbon fiber cha-cha you can get the Ohlins kit. Much better use of your cash if you ask me.
For the cost difference of the carbon fiber cha-cha you can get the Ohlins kit. Much better use of your cash if you ask me.
And how is your build im anxious to see the results and drivability on the track.