I drove the car for 12 years without worrying about miles/paint/resell value. I guess I could have stored it for the winters but those were going to be some boring 12 years.

I'm shocked porsche built an engine that can't withstand the colder climates

 

And now you get to get a 4.0! Lucky dog .. .

 

What did you end up doing?

 

I'm still in the information gathering stage:

4.0 L Jake Raby
or
4.2 L Dwain Vision Motorsports

 

Thats like deciding between Elle Mcpherson and Cindy Crawford.

 

Question. The the thing that gets scored is the factory liner. If you get the normal #6 scoring.....it sit possible to just replace just that one liner? Or at that point is the engine in pieces and in for a pound etc?

 

Boy would you be pissed when the next cylinder goes!

 

Just a single data point: mine (MY05 C2 base) has never been north of Sarasota. Driven daily (far enough to get the oil hot, and not over 3Krpm until it was hot), never tracked, oil changed every 3K. Car began knocking "lifter" sound around 60K, there was no soot in tailpipe, and oil consumption was still normal. Scoring was present on the piston skirts but not yet in the bores. Maybe cold temps accelerate the problem, but I don't believe it can be labeled a cause.

 

Ben you ruined my morning :-) Are you the first 3.6 with scoring? I hadn't seen any others on the list of the unlucky 37 in the poll. There was talk the 3.6s were not as prone as 3.8s. I'm unsure if thats just because there were 1/3 fewer 3.6s made than 3.8s.,

What was your resolution?

 

I've seen and fixed blocks that had just one hole sleeved with a steel sleeve after the cylinder cracked. Less than one year later, the engine suffered another crack and scoring on other cylinders.

 

@Charles - while we have you here it would be great to get your perspective on the different options, cost comparisons, avg timeline, and pros/cons for a rebuild like this.

Option 1 - Buy Nickies and rebuild it yourself.

Option 2 - Buy Nickies and have a local indy rebuild it.

Option 3 - Buy an RND engine, sell your core, have a local indy install.

Option 4 - Ship to Jake or Vision Motorsports for a 4.0 rebuild


Any insight you can provide would be awesome!

 

Sorry about the ruined morning! Maybe I'm the first on here but doubtful the first ever. I've read (forgot by whom, perhaps Hartech, not sure) one of the issues is Porsche kept on increasing displacement from the original 2.4 (?) Boxster on into the 911's using the same basic block, which affected the area designated for the cooling system. Again, I have no idea if that's even a plausible explanation for why scoring seems to affect the larger-displacement motors more. My resolution is I've got an RND engine in it now, along with a new set of injectors and the IMS Solution. Same displacement but runs noticeably smoother and peppier than it ever did with the factory lump.

 

If you do it yourself, you are going to save yourself at least 60 hours, if not more, but figure you are going to need to buy tools and if you are smart, get training, so you don't make any mistakes. You probably won't save a whole lot at the end of the day but on the flip side, you will have the satisfaction of having done it yourself.

The RND engine is about the same cost of doing a factory reman shortblock and then paying a shop to rebuild the heads finish the engine. Plus side of the RND engine is near immediate gratification. Typically you can have your car back on the road in under 2 weeks from time the engine shops from the warehouse.

The RND engine is going to be about the same cost as doing a Nickies build with 99mm bore for street use. I would figure your car will be out of commission for a minimum of 3 months, maybe even 4.

Building a 101 bore engine with track upgrades, porting, etc. can easily add $5-10k if you include IPD, gt3 throttle body, exhaust, software, and other bits. .

Just remember that you have the cost of the engine plus everything else that bolts on that either needs replacing or upgrading - we just put an RND engine in at our shop and between all the plastics and hoses as well as flywheel, clutch, expansion tank, etc., there was another 9k in labor and parts on top of the cost of the engine. That will be the same regardless of which engine you go with.

Lots of people don't realize that these are ancillary costs above and beyond the engine and internals that are often overlooked or omitted when getting an estimate. It all adds up. We typically give an invoice with worst case scenario with a not to exceed value.

Does that help?

 

Bigger is often not better. Once the laws of diminishing returns set in, added displacement just moved the RPM range down, creating an engine that doesn't do anything well.

That said, we can build 4.3 and 4.4L engines, but they make less power per cc than the 4.0.

The bigger is better crowd is the easiest to beat.... Always have been.

 

when this engine are been brough up to 4.0 and up are the combustion chambers getting worked on? when you go with a bigger bore usualy valves need to be deshrouded

there alot of lil trick to engine building that i dont see in many of this builds.. for example when i see shiny je pistons on this engines.. all those edges become hot spots that increase chances of detonation, they should get hand sanded with some 800 grit sand paper just to remove the peaks and make them rounded..