Flat6 Innovations

The "R" in RND stands for Raby, as I was the developer of the RND program; for a company called SSF Auto Parts. Yes, this is a solid option for those who want a stock replacement engine immediately installed. The RND program has exploded in the past few months, and several engines have made their way into Canada. If you are looking for an RND engine, as it has LN Nikisil cylinders, then we can easily export it to Canada. It could leave the Atlanta SSF warehouse tomorrow.

My backlog here at Flat 6 is 14 months at the present, and we only build engines here that are Street, or Track Performers, all of which are larger displacement and feature characteristics that make them higher performance in every way, while retaining mannerisms that make them great daily drivers, too. These are not race engines, they are designed from a different perspective.

The RND program was born because of the demand for a high quality, stock displacement engine, with technology that was not available in factory long block or turn key engine.

semicycler

Good to know Jake. Checking out the website it looks like the RND program is a long block turnkey solution. Do you have anything similar but for short block turnkey only?

Flat6 Innovations

No, here at Flat 6 we only build complete engines, fitted, and tested in their respective vehicles. All of the engines that we build are finished, installed, and tested under our roof. We carry out every aspect of engine reconstruction, from disassembly, to machining, to fitment, dyno tuning, and engine break in. The owner receives a fully proven vehicle, not just an engine in a crate.

Again, I am a developer that assisted in the creation of the RND engine, these engines are not built on our property here, and share little in common with a Flat 6 Innovations engine.

Both may use LN Nickies cylinders, but the RND engine couples this with stock pistons, and rings, not or CP forged pistons. Both may see an IMS Retrofit, but the RND engine comes with the Single Row Pro IMSB, or M97 Ceramic deep groove ball bearing. All Flat 6 Innovations engines come standard with my Patented IMS Solution www.theimssolution.com

nk215

I was wrong, they don't. No idea how I typed that.

nk215

I read somewhere that if a customer send in a fully functional vehicle for the a cylinder sleeving (preventive) and 4.0 service, the waiting time is much less. Is this correct? For some reason, I remembered the wait time is around 3 months. I am not sure where I got the info from, Callas maybe?

Ben Z

I can say a few things from personal experience. 1) Sometimes the ticking at idle is bad lifters, in fact sometimes it's several of them. 2) Even if the lifter job cures the ticking and a borescope down the spark plug holes reveal no signs of cylinder wall scoring, there can already be significant damage to piston skirts, which is the precursor to bore scoring. 3) RND have a superb product. The website tells all the stuff that goes into them, and you can tell Jake's influence by the thick manual directing in precise detail how the shop must do the break-in procedure, including what oil to use etc. 4) SSF the company that oversees the program, has some truly knowledgeable Porsche guys on staff who have a dedication to customer service that you don't see very often these days.

hockenheimr

Sounds like scoring is in all of our futures!

Jake, we need to see some 4.0L videos....make us enjoy the pain of bore scoring what's the dyno charts look like as well?

Sneaky Pete

Had I had a windshield mount for my 6S using Harry's Laptimer this past weekend you would be seeing plenty!......and probably me giggling like a school girl.

Philster

First, thanks for bringing this to the boards. Maybe each bit of info will help prevent more failed engines.

I'm not interviewing or grilling you, so please don't take offence. Can you explain what you mean by 'car was always properly warmed up, etc.' ?

And I would appreciate it if no other Rennlisters define this or attempt to work their way into this question. 100% serious, vern1. Just explain what "Car was always properly warmed up etc'' means to you, as far as, for example, what you might do on a -12C morning.

Thank you and hopefully it all works out and you come back and update us here.

Best...

Phil
.

Bruce In Philly

Some good news, my 2009 C2S sat outside over the last two winters in Northern NJ, three days a week, and I started it up around 7:00 in the AM. Not this past winter, but the prior two and the engine survived fine for the last year.

I start it, let it idle until the revs drop... maybe about 15-20 seconds longer if its really cold, sometimes I knock enough snow off to get in, start, and then back out to clear all the snow.... and drive accelerating slowly keeping the revs under 3-3.5K for about three miles of stop signs and lights. Then I open it up as I get onto the interstate.

Maybe Jake can mention how long from damage starting to eating oil? Again, I have been driving almost daily in the last year with no oil consumption.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

gopirates

I am curious if I should be worried or consider bore scoping before my CPO runs out. I have a 2009 Base C2 Cab that came from Philly/NJ with 20K miles and now has 25K miles.

Since I have had it, it does consume about 3/4 quart of oil every 400-500 miles and I do have sooty tail pipes. The soot is evenly distributed and there is no smoke at all.

When I drive it, I always insure it gets to 200 in oil temp and I leave the garage immediately after it starts and down revs to 800 RPMs. I also keep it under 4K RPMs until oil temp gets to about 175-200. However I'm not sure what the POs did and not sure if my oil consumption could be because the POs did not follow these guidelines...

dgjks6

Yes, get them to scope it. I plan to before my CPO runs out next year. My 996 consumed 1/2 quart in 5000 miles. My 2009 consumes a quart in 3000 miles.

Did you mean 4000-5000 miles? 400-500 miles I would have it at the dealer now. IIRC Porsche low estimate is 1 quart per 900 miles.

vern1

I start the car and immediately run it to redline so it warms up real fast

I start it, usually wait for the revs to drop and get on my way. Keep it under 3.5k till oil is above 180 but wont really run it harder till oil around 200. I do this whether it -20 or +20 (Celsius of course)

gopirates

No, I typed correctly, every 400-500 miles. The last number in the row is the mileage between addition of oil.

Date Mileage Oil added Notes Mileage between addition
Feb-7-2015 20114 Purchased Drove back from Philly to Raleigh, by the time I got to NC border, Oil light came on
20389 1/2 quart added
20439 1/2 quart added
20464 1/2 quart added
Feb-8-2015 20494 1/2 quart added 30
Feb-8-2015 20629 Registered 4 bars 135
Mar-12-2015 20954 1/2 quart added 325
Apr-22-2015 21520 1/2 quart added 566
Jun-08-2015 22079 0.6 quart added 559
Jul-15-2015 22398 3/4 quart added 319
Sep-10-2015 22882 Full Oil Change 484
Nov-16-2015 23509 1/2 quart added 627
Jan-02-2016 23936 3/4 quart added Registered 4 bars 427
Jan-18-2016 24104 Wheels off to be refinished
Feb-21-2016 24429 3/4 quart added Registered 4 bars 493
Mar-25-2016 24920 3/4 quart added Registered 4 bars 491
Apr-15-2016 25272 New Front Tires and New Ti Lugbolts on all 4
Apr-16-2016 25296 3/4 quart added Registered 4 bars 376
Apr-25-2016 25477 1/2 quart added (After BBQ run event 4/23)Two Bars, after oil registered 3 bars 205

semicycler

gopirates - you are about 1 quart every 530-665 miles or so. That's a lot. If you are under warranty I'd take it in for excessive oil consumption. It might be a leak, bad AOS or symptoms of bore scoring. Let the dealer figure it out.