KNS

Sometimes known as "blind faith", sounds warm and fuzzy, though.

I would trust the oil recommendation of one who had rebuilt hundreds of engines (Steve Weiner, Jake Raby, etc) long before the manufacturer. Porsche is a fantastic company, they have been known to get it wrong occasionally, however.

Cloudspin

Mine too. Significantly. Now on my third DT40 fill and consumption is still higher. And I too wonder why. I do my own oil changes and let it drain for at least two hours each time.

Flat6 Innovations

Thats interesting. Have you gotten any samples off to the lab?

Flat6 Innovations

Here's Lake's point of view on cross pollination, and swapping back and forth between oils:

Here is my take on this. There is simply not enough room on a label to write down everything somebody could possibly need to know about an oil. We have published an "instruction sheet" that is on our website (http://www.drivenracingoil.com/docs/...ng_Oil_351.pdf). It states that for best results, drain and flush the system. With all of that said, over the 15 plus seasons doing these oils for Joe Gibbs Racing, we have seen where some oils simply do not like other oils. Each oil in isolation is fine, but the combination of the two (even a 90% to 10% ratio) can cause a change in performance. This is a topic covered in the Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers Certified Lubrication Specialist program.

In everyday life, when somebody experiences one of these occurrences, they think the oil they just installed must be poor, so they either switch back to the previous oil or go to a third option. In most cases, this resolves the "chemistry conflict", and the person moves forward. I've seen this happen first hand at least 3 times. We used to see this happen if a customer switched directly from Red Line racing oil to our XP racing oil. Strange things like increased blow-by, oil consumption, loss of power would happen. It even happened at JGR doing a series of oil tests and we had to flush the engine twice to get the baseline oil back to the baseline numbers. On the other hand, I've had people tell me they swapped from Red Line to our oil and never experienced this. I've also seen this happen between other brands of oil (not our products) and I've heard stories of different brands having "weird" interactions.

The point I am trying to make is this, odd things can happen when you mix different chemicals (motor oils and fuels) and put them in a chemical reactor (the engine). The vast majority of the time, nothing strange occurs, but every so often, something odd does occur.

I will say this, the more swapping between brands that you do, the more likely this is to happen. Also, the use of any oil and/or fuel additives compounds the likelihood of something strange occurring.

The best advice I can offer is to do regular oil analysis, and if you decide to change brands of oil, drain and flush the engine (the BR oils are great flush oils). Go half the normal distance, and then do an oil change. This helps clean and flush the system so that the oil can form and maintain the tribofilm that it is designed to do. At that point, you have a better reference for how that oil works for your engine, in your operating environment.

Thanks,
Lake Speed, Jr.
Certified Lubrication Specialist
Driven Racing Oil - Born From Joe Gibbs Racing, Driven To Win
13201 Reese Blvd, Suite 200
Huntersville, NC 28078
704-239-4401 cell
704-944-7538 fax

chuck911

Two things (at least) that I just don't get. First is how anyone is supposed to "flush" a system comprised of oil lines and radiators, not to mention the engine alone. Even when "all" the oil is drained, many quarts, at least 5 and probably more like 8- in other words about half!- the oil remains in the system. How can this ever be "flushed" without at least partially disassembling the system and flushing the individual subsystems?

Rhetorical question. Can't be done.

Secondly, WHY?! It would be one thing if the Mobil1 that comes from the factory was some average or experimental oil. But no, Mobil1 is an exceptional oil with a history of DECADES of proven performance! And it comes from the sacred Factory! (Blessed be Thy Name.)

The really confusing part is this all seems to be motivated by a desire to prevent harm. Well, the first rule of prevention is avoid risk. Mobil1 is proven. Zero risk. Even good old fashioned dinosaur oil is at least a known (and very low) risk. Whatever just came down the pipe? Nobody knows! (Nobody knows, by the way, is the definition of risk. You could look it up!) Conservatism alone would dictate let the Ricer crowd experiment. I mean, mess up your engine, its not like you just wipe it away like a disappointing wax.

Quadcammer

60k miles on M1 0w-40. basically nothing but very short trips to the train station.

Petza914

If the OUAs in my supercharged car were coming back flawless, I would probably just stick with what I was using, which was initially M1 and then Motul xcess, but both showed a viscosity reduction and degradation of the additive package at 5,000 mile oik changes, so I was looking for something that might work better, and Jake and Lake were nice enough to correspond with me and interpret what my UOAs were showing and both think the DT40 will yield better results for my particular application so I'm going to proceed with the BR30 flush and then the DT40 fill and will share my results - mind you that will likely be 6-9 months from now based on my annual mileage for this car, in which time there will probably be 20 new oil threads discussing the same thing, but nonetheless, I'll share the results here anyway.

Incidentally, my wife's unmodded C2S showed very similar results with the M1. It is better with the Motul so I will use up my stock of that in her car, which sees about 15,000 mi/year and shorten her change interval from 5,000 MI to 4,000 miles. Depending on the results I achieve with DT40, if positive I'll then switch her car over to it also, so I only have to inventory 1 oil for our 997s.

LexVan

Looking forward to your results. Please share with us next year, here, or a new thread. But, I'll go out on a limb, and suggest you won't see much improvement in your UOA's. If you drop your oil change interval from say 5,000 miles to say 4,000 miles, that would yield better, faster, easier results. It will also take at least 2 cycles of the DT40 to get the real/true effect/results.....if any.

Cloudspin

No I haven't. I will this time though and I'll use one of the labs you suggested in a previous post and then post the results. Four more track days until my next change. I may try mixing in some DT50 next time now that I know it and DT40 are compatible. I used M1 5-50 while my car was in extended warranty and switched to DT40 after it expired.

Pete Lech

Oh, bad idea generally. If you use synthetic oil, it is not needed as they are highly detergent. However when I had a problem with a sticky lifter after running racing oil on the street, I added a qt of ATF and drove the car for 50 miles and changed the oil back to Mobil 1. No lifter problems in the 5 years since.

The difference is ATF is highly detergent oil, and engine flush in basically kerosene and a bad lubricant..

Carrera997s

Oil flush definitely not necessary. I let my oil drain for about 15 minutes, change my filter element and then refill with Mobil 1 0W 40 and I'm good to go.

Iceter

There are more than one high-quality oil that will perform perfectly well in a Porsche. If Porsche recommends only one brand, out of all of the brands that will perform equally well, then that is very strong prima facie evidence that some agreement was made between the two companies.

I think it would be very naïve to believe that Porsche received absolutely no benefit from specifically naming Mobil 1 as it's recommended brand. No one is suggesting that a Porsche board member is getting paper bags of cash. It could be something as simple as a discounted price on the thousands of gallons of the stuff that Porsche pours into the cars at the factory, or it could be an agreement that Mobil uses P-cars in it's oil advertising, or any number of other legal methods of consideration for the recommendation.

But, the fact remains that instead of recommending a spec level, Porsche recommends a brand. There IS some kind of consideration being given to Porsche for that privilege.

Philster

It's called a partnership. Each gains by partnering with the other.

It's a technical partnership that let's Mobile leverage what Porsche has in engineering and lubrication and vice versa.

It's not complicated.

.

RichFL

Now you guys have me worried. My 2011 Carrera S sees a lot of track days and is a DD. I change my own oil and use Motul 8100 X-Cess which I buy by the case. I had my car at the dealer for some other services, and while there, let them change the oil and they used Mobil 1. I ran that longer than I should have based upon my own standards and then changed it using Motul. I sent the Mobil 1 to Blackstone for analysis and the report came back saying everything was good other than a trace of fuel most likely from normal driving. I've been at the track 5 days with the Motul and haven't seen any problems so maybe I'm just lucky. I'll might look into using a different oil after my supply of Motul is gone.

Robocop305

I switched to Motul 8100 two oil changes ago and my car runs cooler and uses very little oil compared to when it was using Mobil 1. I have sent the oils the last 2 oil changes and the results have come back great! As a matter of fact, Blackstone always recomends prolonging the oil changes due to the fact that the additives are still intact.