Does anyone use an oil flush before doing oil change?
#1
Racer
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I saw an oil change DIY this weekend on a 997 and the guy suggested running an oil cleaner/flush in the engine for 10-15 minutes before draining the oil. Has anyone ever done this?
#3
Three Wheelin'
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Probably good idea to change the filter to the Johnson Rod Actuator and flush the fluid at the Flux Capacitor while you have the car up in the air. I usually change the filter when I'm filling the oil up into that reservoir in front of the steering wheel, you know by the battery. LOL
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Why? Flush what, exactly?? How would you get it out 100%???
Porsche recommends ZERO oil additives or flushes.
Porsche recommends ZERO oil additives or flushes.
#6
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Probably good idea to change the filter to the Johnson Rod Actuator and flush the fluid at the Flux Capacitor while you have the car up in the air. I usually change the filter when I'm filling the oil up into that reservoir in front of the steering wheel, you know by the battery. LOL
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#11
Three Wheelin'
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If you have to flush your oil, that means you're changing dirty oil, which means you're driving it. If you're driving it, you depreciating it...
...and your not supposed to do that, so...
...the logical answer is "No!".
...and your not supposed to do that, so...
...the logical answer is "No!".
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#12
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Driving it no longer matters. As I posted in another thread, I accidentally turned on the windshield washers so my car was totalled. I can drive all I want now. It is worthless.
#13
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Technically, with a 911, you are always changing dirty oil. There is so much oil in lines and radiators (at least a gallon, probably more like 6 quarts) that cannot be drained, that even right after an oil change the oil is instantly "dirty". In fact when I saw "flush" I assumed it meant changing the oil, running the motor a minute and then changing it again.
This will probably surprise the people insisting on the oil being hot, or letting it drain for hours trying to get the last drop of dirty oil, but you can drain till the end of time, still gonna be quarts- not drops, quarts!- of dirty oil left in there.
This will probably surprise the people insisting on the oil being hot, or letting it drain for hours trying to get the last drop of dirty oil, but you can drain till the end of time, still gonna be quarts- not drops, quarts!- of dirty oil left in there.
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Same here, I drain my oil hot so most of it will drain out, and faster too. So watch your hand when loosening that plug!
This reminds me of a Looong time ago, when I was in Bermuda, with my Fiat Uno. Didn't want to go to the Fiat Stealer then, so I took it to shop by a 'petrol' station. This Rastaman drained the oil out of my Fiat, then....he poured in a whole can of kerosene into the oil filler! I was standing by watching him, and I went "What the heck...aren't you supposed to put engine oil in there??"
That was when he started enlightening me....
Of course I was skeptical then, and still am!
This reminds me of a Looong time ago, when I was in Bermuda, with my Fiat Uno. Didn't want to go to the Fiat Stealer then, so I took it to shop by a 'petrol' station. This Rastaman drained the oil out of my Fiat, then....he poured in a whole can of kerosene into the oil filler! I was standing by watching him, and I went "What the heck...aren't you supposed to put engine oil in there??"
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Of course I was skeptical then, and still am!
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#15
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We should all pity the air cooled owners who now have no choice but to sell their cars, given that their rise in value means it would be foolish to open the garage door and let sunlight bounce off of the fenders.
As for turpentine (and getting back on topic), my guess is that this could be counter productive. There is a difference between worthless and non functional. I'm told the flush requires a mixture of ground up unicorn horn with some less common fluids. And you will need a PIWIS to make sure the flushing temperatures stay within range. This really is a dealer only procedure.