Ditchhanger

So these 3/8" plugs are a little bit too large for those holes...the 5/16" may fit better, but I don't think they'll be as snug. I just shaved about 3/8" from the bottom where the insert is and it fit in there pretty snug...it's not going to come out without some effort.

Ditchhanger

Here's where you have to modify your EVOMS. I know...drilling a hole I to a perfectly designed $600 intake may not be the thing you want to do, but this wasn't made for this exact application. I left the bolt in the plug and set the intake box (no filter or tube coming from the throttle body attached) as far left as possible (without it angling up on the left side) and kind of made some marks on the bottom of the box. Based on where the plug sits in relation to the box, I used a 1/2" drill bit and drilled in from the bottom. I had to elongate the hole a little towards the right side (if you were looking down into the filter space) but the rubber part of the plug fits nicely.

Ditchhanger

Now that it's pretty secure in there, you can do the same for another one of those holes, but I just left it with one. Once the intake tube is attached, it's quite solid.

The other issue is that even though it's now situated as far as it can go to the left, the right side piston was still coming into contact with the filter box. I took a MAP torch I had laying around and proceeded to take off the rubber strip and heat up the ABS where the piston housing was coming into contact with the box. You could use a heat gun if you want, but anything else won't provide enough heat. I then just gently massaged the plastic just enough to make the piston clear. It does take time and if you use a torch, be prepared to wear some thick gloves to massage it with your hands...it'll be hot. Also, don't put direct heat so close to the plastic...take your time. You don't want to use any tools because since the plastic is somewhat pliable, it'll leave marks

Ditchhanger

After that, you have to kinda fit the filter in the box and then of course the intake pipe into the throttle body. It takes a little bit of work, but it's not too hard. Also, don't worry...the filter can be installed and removed from that space (the plastic is pretty flexible there and strong). Then replace the rubber strip, and you're good to go!

Ditchhanger

And the finished product!

Ditchhanger

So whoever is doing this mod next and wants to use the spanner wrench, PM me. I'll send it off to you and then you can send it off to the next person who needs it.

Petza914

Nice work and valuable update. Looks like you inserted the plugs through the airbox and then into the chassis mounting holes. I did it by making a hole closer to the size of the bolt and used a neoprene washer with a stainless washer to make an airtight seal. Either way will work and yours needs fewer parts, but a larger hole.

Also, I'd recommend installing a hydrophobic K&N pre-filter over the oiled filter. With the turbo decklid, the filter is pretty open to getting wet when it rains. I have the specific # of the cover I ordered at h OK me and can post that on Friday of this week when I'm back. Comes in various colors.

Ditchhanger

I actually used that metal washer between the airbox and the plug from the inside. The plug was inserted into the holes, then the airbox on top of it and the bolt with the washer going into the plug from the box side.

Petza914

Back home again...the K&N hydrophobic filter cover that's a good fit for the filter on an Evoms airbox is RF1048DR. The last R denotes the color and they come in Black, Red, Yellow, & Blue.

Ditchhanger

Thanks! They only had the red on Amazon, so I went to the K&N website and got the black one for the same price with free shipping!

EG997C2

I'm in the middle of gathering the needed parts for the conversion on my Guard Red 997.2 C2S and have to say that this thread made things soooo much easier. Thanks to everyone that contributed.

Does anyone know if there's a way to wire the spoiler into the C2S harness to avoid purchasing the Turbo lid harness?

Ditchhanger

Did you purchase the parts piece by piece or did you source out a complete wing and decklid?

Petza914

Even if there is, I'm not sure it's worthwhile to do it when the proper turbo wiring harness is simply plug and play with the existing connector. It's the hydraulic pump that's different on the turbo so there are connection points in the non-turbo connector that are blank that have contacts in them in the Turbo harness. Isn't the turbo harness, like $100? Go that route so you don't have pin issues and you have a waterproof connection that doesn't cause you problems down the road. The setup I did in my wife's car has been completely trouble free for 5 years since we did it in the Spring of 2013.

Have you found the hydraulic rams and pump yet? I still need to do the Eram conversion to her car with the parts sitting in my office closet, which would make her hydraulic setup available for sale. Let me know if you're interested and I may move some project timelines around to free it up for you.