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I think it looks really cool. There are lots of wing options, this is just another so I say make it your own and don't look back. Seems to me that you can switch back anytime you like if you really wanted to.
PS, i assume the two cylinders under the wing are the hydraulics...how do they work, meaning, what portion of the wing do they maneuver since the wing is 'always' up? Sorry if its a stupid question.
The other guys have it right. In the photos on post #44, the first two show the wing raised and the last one with it down. On the coupe it doesn't really raise a lot as you can see, on the cabrio it raises a fair amount more due to the difference in aerodynamics. And yes, the cylinders you see at each end are what raises and lowers the upper wing surface, driven by a hydraulic pump that lives in the center recess between the fan and the lid latch.
Fantastic job. The wing looks great. I'm not a fan of the red S but it does look better as 911S than CarreraS. Now I need to add another wing to my list of choices.
The other guys have it right. In the photos on post #44, the first two show the wing raised and the last one with it down. On the coupe it doesn't really raise a lot as you can see, on the cabrio it raises a fair amount more due to the difference in aerodynamics. And yes, the cylinders you see at each end are what raises and lowers the upper wing surface, driven by a hydraulic pump that lives in the center recess between the fan and the lid latch.
Are they different part numbers? Decklid and Wing for Cab vs Coupe? Or are they interchangeable and when installed on the Cab the wing will raise higher?
Are they different part numbers? Decklid and Wing for Cab vs Coupe? Or are they interchangeable and when installed on the Cab the wing will raise higher?
The deck lids appear to have the same part number regardless of coupe or cab. The upper panel between the deck lid and the back window, which most don't replace during the swap, is different between the two.
The hydraulic lift for the wing has two switches built into it to determine when the wing has reached fully retracted or fully extended position. The two switches are in a fixed assembly that detect recesses in the cylinder as it moves. The cylinders and the wiring hardness (the switches are attached to it) both have different part numbers for coupe and cab. I assume it is due to the difference in switch positions, recess locations, and probably cylinder length. Come to think of it the cylinder on the cab must be longer. If the only differences was switch/recess position, both cars could use the same cylinder on the unswitched side... but they don't.
If a donor lid from a convertible was put on a coupe, I'd guess it would work fine and raise higher. The pump just keeps going under one of the switches engages. By changing those I'd guess you could get the coupe's wing to raise higher like the cab, but the parts costs for new parts would approach $2000 and it would be a mismatch for the car aerodynamics anyway. I like the current deployed wing height for the coupe just fine.
The deck lids appear to have the same part number regardless of coupe or cab. The upper panel between the deck lid and the back window, which most don't replace during the swap, is different between the two.
The hydraulic lift for the wing has two switches built into it to determine when the wing has reached fully retracted or fully extended position. The two switches are in a fixed assembly that detect recesses in the cylinder as it moves. The cylinders and the wiring hardness (the switches are attached to it) both have different part numbers for coupe and cab. I assume it is due to the difference in switch positions, recess locations, and probably cylinder length. Come to think of it the cylinder on the cab must be longer. If the only differences was switch/recess position, both cars could use the same cylinder on the unswitched side... but they don't.
If a donor lid from a convertible was put on a coupe, I'd guess it would work fine and raise higher. The pump just keeps going under one of the switches engages. By changing those I'd guess you could get the coupe's wing to raise higher like the cab, but the parts costs for new parts would approach $2000 and it would be a mismatch for the car aerodynamics anyway. I like the current deployed wing height for the coupe just fine.
Thanks. I have a cab and was considering this. Just wanted to be sure that I sought out the correct donor lid. Your car looks great! I didn't mean to imply that yours should raise higher. Can you provide the part numbers for the wiring harness and/or cylinders?
I'm hoping to do get to work on the DIY tonight and will pull the part numbers then. In the DIY I'll be sure to list cab/coupe numbers separately. If you want them sooner, I tend to use one of www.jimellisporscheparts.com, autoatlanta.com, or gaudinporscheparts.com to look up part numbers from the diagrams. Oddly enough, sometimes I find better info on one of the sites over the others. In this case, I recall that Gaudin only seems to show the cab part numbers while one of the other sites showed both. You'd think they would all show the same info since the source is the same.
It looks like its going to be a bit longer before I can get the time for a proper DIY. In the meantime, it appears the key parts numbers for both cab and coupe hydraulic deck lid parts can be found on this page: http://www.jimellisporscheparts.com/...rimLevel=24718]
Note that while the name says "hinge" on the hydraulic cylinders, the diagram numbering confirms that those are the cylinders. The prices are actually cheaper on Gaudin Porsche's site but they don't show all of the parts for cab and coupe for some reason. They still aren't cheap though... hopefully you can find a used deck lid with all the right parts.
It looks like its going to be a bit longer before I can get the time for a proper DIY. In the meantime, it appears the key parts numbers for both cab and coupe hydraulic deck lid parts can be found on this page: http://www.jimellisporscheparts.com/...rimLevel=24718]
Note that while the name says "hinge" on the hydraulic cylinders, they diagram numbering confirms that those are the cylinders. The prices are actually cheaper on Gaudin Porsche's site but they don't show all of the parts for cab and coupe for some reason. They still aren't cheap though... hopefully you can find a used deck lid with all the right parts.
Thank you very much for your assistance and prompt response.
I finally got the 911S logo on the car. They hard part was how to exactly position the S relative to the 911 digits (which come stuck together on a strip for proper placement).
I know some didn't like the red S but hey, I can't make everyone happy. BTW, the second photo shows the real S color better, the first picture taken at night is reflecting the garage light and makes it seem to flow red more than it really is. I figure if the novelty of it wears off for me then I can paint it black like the rest of it. For now I think it looks good with the other red bits on the car and works well with the red calipers.
After looking at the back with no logo for a few days I started to like it bare too. Very clean. Maybe one day I'll go back to that.
I had the same issue with the S placement. After searching the internet for a while and looking at how I think Porsche puts it on, that's how I did it which is to have the top of the S even with the top of the other numbers and that makes the bottom swoop of the S go under the nunbers a little bit.
It bolts on from inside the car interestingly enough. You have to remove the vertical carpeted trim panel in the back, which snaps in but requires a good tug top and bottom (be sure to pull straight out so as not to bend the clips like I did). There are two nuts in a recess that hold it in place. The bolt is on the panel side and is fairly long, so removing the nuts requires a standard deep socket.
Once released and pulled away from the car, you have to release the wiring connector for the center brake light. This requires pressing a release just like most of the connectors on the car and simply unplugging. I left the wire in place when reinstalling the smooth panel and just tucked it inside the gaps in the panel wrapped in tape to reduce rattle potential.
Most people do the wing without changing this panel but I was lucky and it came as part of the deal for me (otherwise it is a bit over $500 unpainted). The brake light will disable anyway. There is no code thrown when it is unplugged since it is disabled anyway.
Back of panel
Removing carpeted trim
Snaps on trim
One of two bolts that hold the panel (looking up from the inside)
Wiring still connected (I taped edges with low adhesion masking tape first to reduce risk of dings during handling)
FANTASTIC job on the work StormRune and thank you for documenting the journey. Your car looks awesome. I have a '11 C4S and the turbo factory wing is the one option I would've checked if it was available.
I think Dethman said this and can you confirm for 997.2 all you need is the following purchases:
1) the turbo wing
2) the wiring harness
3) turbo fan
4) mounting bolts
5) get it painted
FANTASTIC job on the work StormRune and thank you for documenting the journey. Your car looks awesome. I have a '11 C4S and the turbo factory wing is the one option I would've checked if it was available.
I think Dethman said this and can you confirm for 997.2 all you need is the following purchases:
1) the turbo wing
2) the wiring harness
3) turbo fan
4) mounting bolts
5) get it painted
Hi Mark,
The short answer is it depends on what comes with the deck lid and wing you find. If you are lucky and find a complete one with all the parts then you are all set. It will be plug and play. If not complete, it is just the parts needed to complete. You can use the hinges from your current lid and they work just fine, no need for the extra lift cylinder like I initially thought.
The only other change is the air box. You will need an aftermarket one short enough to allow the hydraulic cylinders to clear. The early metal Fabspeed dual cone one is ideal since the MAF mount clears the Turbo fan best but can be hard to find. The newer carbon fiber one works too but you'll need to tilt it down a bit so the MAF mount doesn't touch and remove the back cap piece on the fan, which is no big deal.
I'm on the road today and may not be able to reply to any further questions until tomorrow .
Hi Mark,
The short answer is it depends on what comes with the deck lid and wing you find. If you are lucky and find a complete one with all the parts then you are all set. It will be plug and play. If not complete, it is just the parts needed to complete. You can use the hinges from your current lid and they work just fine, no need for the extra lift cylinder like I initially thought.
The only other change is the air box. You will need an aftermarket one short enough to allow the hydraulic cylinders to clear. The early metal Fabspeed dual cone one is ideal since the MAF mount clears the Turbo fan best but can be hard to find. The newer carbon fiber one works too but you'll need to tilt it down a bit so the MAF mount doesn't touch and remove the back cap piece on the fan, which is no big deal.
I'm on the road today and may not be able to reply to any further questions until tomorrow .
Thank you for response! I would really love to make the change. If you happen to run into a deck lid and wing with the complete parts (or even semi-complete), please PM me. I'l keep searching as well
10-19-2014, 09:50 PM
