Replacing the clutch in a 997.1 -- Here's how I did it.
#16
Instructor
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Thanks for the compliments guys. Hopefully it'll save some people time if they decide to DIY or hopefully it'll convince someone on the fence that paying someone else to do it is money well spent. After doing it myself, I can certainly see both sides of that. I wouldn't look down on someone who read through this thread and decided that DIY was out of the question. As I said in the first post, I didn't title this as a DIY because I felt like people should look through this and decide for themselves if they were up for it.
Yea, I did freeze the bearing to help put it in. But I was slightly freaked out about the possibility of the bearing going in crooked. So, I would tap (very very lightly) on bearing/insertion tool with my mallet several times to get it to stick in the hole. Then I'd pull the insertion tool off and measure how straight the bearing was going in with a depth gauge. I probably pulled the bearing back off and on 10 times before I was satisfied it was going in straight (note: it was barely on there....I could knock it out with a very light tap of a rubber mallet. Or sometimes I put the install tool back on and pulled it off by hand). That bearing could easily start off crooked. Once the flatness was less than 500 microns all the way around, I decided to go for it. I proceeded by tapping lightly on the insertion tool, removing it, measuring, putting it back on, tapping a bit, removing, etc. The process of seating the bearing probably took over an hour doing it slowly like that. I did ensure it went in straight, but by the time I got it flush, it was at room temperature. Currently, LN is developing a tool that should put the bearing in without allowing it to get crooked. That thing will be worth it's weight in gold once it's available.
As to the condition of the old bearing, it looked great. I didn't pull the rubber seal on it to check the condition on the inside. I've got photos of the old bearing that I'll post up later today to show the condition.
As to the condition of the old bearing, it looked great. I didn't pull the rubber seal on it to check the condition on the inside. I've got photos of the old bearing that I'll post up later today to show the condition.
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jayi836 (03-16-2020)
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#19
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Thanks for such a great post and information. This post has saved me time because when it is my time, my cars going to my porsche specialist!
Too much being under that car, shaking stuff, etc!
Thanks again, great post!
Too much being under that car, shaking stuff, etc!
Thanks again, great post!
#21
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She's got about 77K on her at the moment. I'm guessing 75K for a clutch isn't too bad, although I've heard of people going over 150K on a clutch. Since I didn't get the car till 65K, I don't know how the clutch was used before me. That said, the old clutch had some life...basically it was worn down till the grooves were almost gone, but not to the brads. So, it didn't hurt to replace the clutch, but I think some of the stiffness I was feeling was from the dubious slave cylinder.
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Paint2spec (06-11-2021)
#25
Drifting
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Great work, excellent write-up! I've never done a clutch on a car, and after reading this, I probably never will. But now I feel better about paying someone else to do it.
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#26
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#29
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Finally managed to get around to uploading the photos of the IMS that I pulled. I think it looks pretty good to me. I've heard they can look great on the outside but that the bearings can be pretty dry on the inside. I'll need to pull the seal to check that.
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wpEs_zEXRO4/U731Ufsfi_I/AAAAAAAABHY/fRxaESEd55k/s640/Picture.jpeg)
![](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zCkEl6sTS9s/U731wRQebII/AAAAAAAABMU/aoUkc_igDJE/s640/Picture_36.jpeg)