Dreaded Bore scoring on 06 C2S
#16
Feels like figuring out how to keep our bore-scored cars going for a while to allow these shortages to work themselves out would be the best case scenario. The risk is having the engine issues balloon beyond the bore scoring which, although expensive, is eminently fixable.
Good luck w/ your situation.
If you plan on driving it, figure out what is best oil, oil change intervals and whatever else you can do to prevent it from becoming a bigger issue. I've been having a conversation w/ GIG on this for the last few weeks. Reality is there are a few of us with this problem (mine is not as far along as yours, yet) and given how difficult getting a rebuild done is becoming, we all need to figure out what are the limits of still driving while avoiding a bigger issue. I guess best would be to not drive them, but that starts sounding like a hard thing to do when the rebuilds are 12 months+ out.
That's the real question I have right now. . .
Last edited by 8KaboveMSL; 05-06-2022 at 01:23 PM. Reason: clarity
#17
Also LN will likely be able to recommend shops that they work with on a regular basis in your area. LN @lnengineering and their Nickasil sleeves IMO are the Gold Standard for our M97 engines…Best of luck.
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#18
What about the other cylinders and other symptoms? Perhaps it is something else causing the oil consumption (AOS?) Just because you have "light scoring" on one cylinder (if that really is the case) does not automatically mean you need to jump to a rebuild today anyway.
I would investigate further and hope for the best for you.
I would investigate further and hope for the best for you.
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Robocop305 (05-13-2022)
#19
Yeah, that's definitely on my to-do checklist. Also going to get a 2nd opinion, if only because of the money at stake. My mechanic says he borescoped cylinder 1 only through the plug and that it was "light scoring" but that when the scoring shows up at the top it's likely much worse at the bottom. Of course there is also the oil consumption. I'm going to keep driving it lightly, maybe a couple hundred miles, to see if the oil consumption stays high during casual non-track driving.
#20
Yeah, that's definitely on my to-do checklist. Also going to get a 2nd opinion, if only because of the money at stake. My mechanic says he borescoped cylinder 1 only through the plug and that it was "light scoring" but that when the scoring shows up at the top it's likely much worse at the bottom. Of course there is also the oil consumption. I'm going to keep driving it lightly, maybe a couple hundred miles, to see if the oil consumption stays high during casual non-track driving.
already had a low temp thermostat but that is recommended too. I still drove it (not my daily) for the almost 15 months I was on the FSI waitlist. I started to drive it less and less once I got down to a quart every 600mi but would still drive it time to time. Never got the piston slap sound but had the sooty pipes and oil consumption. So it can be done carefully. I drove it pretty pedestrian for the most part, sometimes I just couldn’t help myself lol.
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#21
I went to Driven FR-50 oil while I was on the FSI waiting list for its better anti sheer properties (as recommended by Charles @ LN) and changed the oil every 3000 miles or 6mo.
already had a low temp thermostat but that is recommended too. I still drove it (not my daily) for the almost 15 months I was on the FSI waitlist. I started to drive it less and less once I got down to a quart every 600mi but would still drive it time to time. Never got the piston slap sound but had the sooty pipes and oil consumption. So it can be done carefully. I drove it pretty pedestrian for the most part, sometimes I just couldn’t help myself lol.
already had a low temp thermostat but that is recommended too. I still drove it (not my daily) for the almost 15 months I was on the FSI waitlist. I started to drive it less and less once I got down to a quart every 600mi but would still drive it time to time. Never got the piston slap sound but had the sooty pipes and oil consumption. So it can be done carefully. I drove it pretty pedestrian for the most part, sometimes I just couldn’t help myself lol.
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Robocop305 (05-13-2022)
#22
Thats the thing w/ these cars. How can you not drive it? I’m sure you’re not the only one that can’t help him/herself! Good to know that the Oil Change Regimen worked for you. In some of the old bore scoring videos on Rennvision Jake recommended a diesel oil, seems like he’s found an improved approach or tuned the approach (as your car didn’t have the piston knock yet). Valuable info. Thanks for sharing!
Last edited by Scalp_em; 05-06-2022 at 06:11 PM.
The following 5 users liked this post by Scalp_em:
Charles Navarro (05-13-2022),
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Torq5teer (05-06-2022)
#25
I used to take my 997.2 turbo to Vision in Laguna Niguel Ca. Amazing owner and shop, they have an in house race team, all their race cars are parked out front. They can do it all and I would trust them for a rebuild, although I do not know exactly what they are offering. Do you know the specifics of how they do the rebuild?I say it’s definitely worth calling them.
#26
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8KaboveMSL (05-08-2022)
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Robocop305 (05-13-2022)
#28
I appreciate all the suggestions!
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#29
Originally Posted by Scalp_em;[url=tel:18128946
18128946[/url]]I went to Driven FR-50 oil while I was on the FSI waiting list for its better anti sheer properties (as recommended by Charles @ LN) and changed the oil every 3000 miles or 6mo.
already had a low temp thermostat but that is recommended too. I still drove it (not my daily) for the almost 15 months I was on the FSI waitlist. I started to drive it less and less once I got down to a quart every 600mi but would still drive it time to time. Never got the piston slap sound but had the sooty pipes and oil consumption. So it can be done carefully. I drove it pretty pedestrian for the most part, sometimes I just couldn’t help myself lol.
already had a low temp thermostat but that is recommended too. I still drove it (not my daily) for the almost 15 months I was on the FSI waitlist. I started to drive it less and less once I got down to a quart every 600mi but would still drive it time to time. Never got the piston slap sound but had the sooty pipes and oil consumption. So it can be done carefully. I drove it pretty pedestrian for the most part, sometimes I just couldn’t help myself lol.
#30
Yeah dont think I could either. I also have 15K-20K in mods and sorting so not enthused about undoing all that and starting over. Will sync up with Vision and LN engineering to get their recommendations and pricing. Depending on those conversations I'll also talk to Hartech or a parts shop. Found a local shop here in KC that I hear is honest and competant to give a 2nd option, so I'll get that next week. I think FSI is probably out of the running, too much uncertainty around timeline let alone cost.
I appreciate all the suggestions!
I appreciate all the suggestions!