8KaboveMSL

I really do think parts shortages are playing a huge part in some of the difficulties shops are facing wrt timing and pricing of rebuilds.

Feels like figuring out how to keep our bore-scored cars going for a while to allow these shortages to work themselves out would be the best case scenario. The risk is having the engine issues balloon beyond the bore scoring which, although expensive, is eminently fixable.

Good luck w/ your situation.

If you plan on driving it, figure out what is best oil, oil change intervals and whatever else you can do to prevent it from becoming a bigger issue. I've been having a conversation w/ GIG on this for the last few weeks. Reality is there are a few of us with this problem (mine is not as far along as yours, yet) and given how difficult getting a rebuild done is becoming, we all need to figure out what are the limits of still driving while avoiding a bigger issue. I guess best would be to not drive them, but that starts sounding like a hard thing to do when the rebuilds are 12 months+ out.

That's the real question I have right now. . .

997Fanatic997

Yeah, that's definitely on my to-do checklist. Also going to get a 2nd opinion, if only because of the money at stake. My mechanic says he borescoped cylinder 1 only through the plug and that it was "light scoring" but that when the scoring shows up at the top it's likely much worse at the bottom. Of course there is also the oil consumption. I'm going to keep driving it lightly, maybe a couple hundred miles, to see if the oil consumption stays high during casual non-track driving.

Sporty

What about the other cylinders and other symptoms? Perhaps it is something else causing the oil consumption (AOS?) Just because you have "light scoring" on one cylinder (if that really is the case) does not automatically mean you need to jump to a rebuild today anyway.
I would investigate further and hope for the best for you.

Hootsama

He's probably right about that, but I think you really need to see 5 and 6 from the bottom, at a minimum if you want an informed perspective. Good luck, man. Hope a second opinion shows light scoring so you can plan and prepare.

Scalp_em

I went to Driven FR-50 oil while I was on the FSI waiting list for its better anti sheer properties (as recommended by Charles @ LN) and changed the oil every 3000 miles or 6mo.
already had a low temp thermostat but that is recommended too. I still drove it (not my daily) for the almost 15 months I was on the FSI waitlist. I started to drive it less and less once I got down to a quart every 600mi but would still drive it time to time. Never got the piston slap sound but had the sooty pipes and oil consumption. So it can be done carefully. I drove it pretty pedestrian for the most part, sometimes I just couldn’t help myself lol.

8KaboveMSL

Thats the thing w/ these cars. How can you not drive it? I’m sure you’re not the only one that can’t help him/herself! Good to know that the Oil Change Regimen worked for you. In some of the old bore scoring videos on Rennvision Jake recommended a diesel oil, seems like he’s found an improved approach or tuned the approach (as your car didn’t have the piston knock yet). Valuable info. Thanks for sharing!

Scalp_em

Yes I tried to Source that Valveline premium blue RESTORE ( key word because it’s the 50%ester blend) 10w-40 but it was super expensive, impossible to find and could only be special ordered from Cummings service centers. So I went with the next best thing I could find in the Driven FR-50. Depending on how bad your scoring is you can temporarily “live” with the scoring for awhile if you take the right precautions but it is only temporary. I’m just glad my car is now at FSI and I will never have to think about it ever again while driving wondering if today was the day that I would get the dreaded piston slap. Once that happens I would have stopped driving it. Luckily for me it never happened.

Torq5teer

Carmax hot potato

Scalp_em

skalpel

I used to take my 997.2 turbo to Vision in Laguna Niguel Ca. Amazing owner and shop, they have an in house race team, all their race cars are parked out front. They can do it all and I would trust them for a rebuild, although I do not know exactly what they are offering. Do you know the specifics of how they do the rebuild?I say it’s definitely worth calling them.

JRBucks

A quart in 250 miles is quite excessive, definitely get a 2nd opinion and scope all of them.

A lot of people would do just that. I couldn't, but it happens.

groovzilla

IMO, I would spend $15-$18K on a used engine from reliable used Porsche parts shop.
The engine can be Bore Scoped and most good shops have service history on their inventory.

997Fanatic997

Yeah dont think I could either. I also have 15K-20K in mods and sorting so not enthused about undoing all that and starting over. Will sync up with Vision and LN engineering to get their recommendations and pricing. Depending on those conversations I'll also talk to Hartech or a parts shop. Found a local shop here in KC that I hear is honest and competant to give a 2nd option, so I'll get that next week. I think FSI is probably out of the running, too much uncertainty around timeline let alone cost.


I appreciate all the suggestions!

Mike Murphy

Yeah, living with bore scoring IS possible in the short term, per the Rennvision videos on this topic,

JRBucks

I'm a big fan of FSI and what they do but I'm sure there are others that do good work and can build you an impressive motor. I guess you have some soul searching and research to do. What would you like to have?