rileyracing1

Here is my last report my metals are higher this round for some reason ?

Petza914

Was the mileage and use roughly the same? Was it 2 years since the last oil change? The oil becoming acidic over that time period even though the mileage is low can be the reason for the increased metal wear. That and the low zinc and Phosphorous content of your chosen oil. Single digit metal wear is still good though.

Petza914

Yes, but I'd buy it from LN, Auto Zone, Driven, or Summit Racing to be sure you're getting the genuine stuff.

silver_tt

My two cents but should be fine to buy it on Amazon, specifically because it says "Ships from and sold by Amazon.com". Just always check who the seller is and don't buy when it's being sold by a 3rd party. Or just buy it direct:

https://drivenracingoil.com/i-304977...mance-oil.html

rileyracing1

Thanks ...My car now has 98km's and the oil had 4k on it when changed from the year prior. The only other thing added to the oil was Mos2

cannonball05

Thanks for the heads up. I ordered from LN.

groovzilla

My experience is that most tight engines w/minimal/no Bore Scoring don't burn oil. The gauge remains at the top level for at least 1800-2000 miles and usually still at top level after 2500-3000 miles of driving. This information derived from oil burn on Bore Scoped cars I've owned and that I have read about/discussed. I have very little mechanical experience just lots of ownership experience and discussing Bore Scoring with my 50 year Indy shop and their customers cars.
I hate the drama around the IMS issues and Bore Scoring but after Bore Scoping a few recent cars and results alarming, I realize it is a real significant issue with these engines and why I always advise buyers to get Bore Scope no matter a 997.1 or 997.2. Just the way it is..
IMO Noticeable oil gauge drop/oil consumption after 600-700 miles would indicate somethings going on even though the Owners Manual says 1.5 liters per 622 miles is within spec..

My question would be at what point does high oil consumption due to Bore Scoring start to throw the CEL light/effect driveability? Anyone have insight on this information?

silver_tt

To answer my own question I spoke with Driven and they said the additive package will be the same or very similar and it's only the viscosity difference. I love their oils but I find their classification confusing. Stuff like the DI line is straight forward but outside of that it is more opaque. E.g. why should an oil be in a different line of oils, the FR line vs DT line, just because of a 5W vs 15W cold temperature viscosity if the rest of the additive package is effectively the same. That does not make a lot of sense immediately to me.......

Thank you Charles for letting me know that a 5W-50 was part of the Driven lineup, I had only seen the 15W-50 previously which I would not recommend especially for folks like myself who live in a place where it gets cold.

Petza914

I use the FR50 in my supercharged 997. Oil pressure even above 225-250 is great (never below 4 bar), and even at idle (1.5 bar).

silver_tt

Thanks for the information. Ya, their oils are outstanding and I have seen excellent results using them. I 100% agree with your comments above about avoiding low zinc and phosphorous oils. Charles has an excellent short writeup about this on his LN website (titled something like "what's the best oil for my Porsche or any high performance engine"). Following European ACEA oil specs, which is effectively what we are doing, is much better than the crap API guidance if you want to protect your engine........

silver_tt

This is a good video (he has a bunch of them) from Rafe Britton, a lubrication engineer that spent 12 years working for ExxonMobil and is super knowledgeable.


Watch from time ~8:00 - 9:00... This dispels the common misconception that you you just dump in an additive (eg. MoS2) in the right amount (if you could even figure that out) to your oil and think it's the same thing. Certain additives need to be heated as they are blended, for example, to ensure they are homogenously dispersed. It's not just a matter of taking base oil A and additive package B and just pouring them together; that doesn't give you a high quality lubricant, there is manufacturing technique that goes into it.

BucketList

I don't get that from this video at all. He is talking about manufacturing motor oil and the additive packages they use with base oil to get their final blend. Any steps required in blending would come from the additive package maker (Lubrizol et al). An additive package like MoS2 would be engineered to add to oil. You use phrases like "common misconception" and "dump in", neither of which is accurate or fair. So you don't like additives, OK, I do. I have felt and heard a noticeable difference by using them. Given the cost of engine rebuilds in these cars, I will give up a few dyno ponies for longer life. You have to remember that oil manufacturers could add MoS2 or Ceratec or FR3 or whatever the additive is to their retail oil, but then the costs go way up because they aren't cheap and grandma's Honda doesn't need them, so they don't. Just because they aren't added to all motor oil doesn't mean they don't have their place.

Carreralicious

Check out this thread below. In particular, post number 31 where it’s stated that the reason the US Army stopped using MoS2 in the 60’s was due to increased corrosion in their engines. Modern engine oils do still use Moly, but in a soluble solution which is activated during heat/friction. At the end of the day, the argument on whether to dump a can in or not will never end. If you think it works, by all means dump a can in. I personally don’t like adding anything extra to my oil.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th....201535/page-2

BucketList

I've hit bob's site a few times. Handy reference. I read the second 2 articles. The one on the military site is no longer available unfortunately and I would discount anything they did 60 years ago simply because materials and lubricants and the science behind them have improved with time. The other 2 articles spoke of electrochemical corrosion caused by straight molybdenum with no disulfide in one case (firearms) and moly added to grease that lowered the insulative properties allowing for corrosion when moisture was present due to anode/cathode reactions. The disulfide molecule they add to it renders it mostly inert and non-corrosive and in fact makes the resulting molecule MoS2 a corrosion inhibitor. I personally don't use MoS2, I use Ceratec, but it appears there is no adverse effect in using it.

silver_tt

My intention was not to say additives like MoS2 and Ceratec are bad for your engine. All I was trying to say is that if you want these additives for your oil I believe it is best to allow the refinery to add them and produce the final product. As opposed to going with a cheaper oil and then trying to mix in your own additives. If you buy an oil with Moly and ZDDP already in them then you don't need to worry about trying to play chemist and create it yourself. There are many reasons I can see but the two main ones are that you won't know how much of the additive to add to achieve optimization. I appreciate that you think your car feels and sounds better to you but you would need to do many iterations of UOA to really see. The second is that even though Ceratec is a consumer grade product that you can just mix into your oil by the instructions, this does not mean that it will be equivalent to the product that comes out of the refinery -- as it was produced using a different method. Premium oils also tend to come with other characteristics like using PAOs and esters for the base oil, which tend to have better HTHS characteristics, for example.