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I have never tracked the car. But I can't say if it was prior to my ownership in 2018. No noise but I do notice the left pipe is sootier than the right. Oil consumption has been the same and seems to be in the norm. No codes. I will note the latest sample does have a mix of different brands. I used a qt of Pennzoil syn 5w-40 while on a trip and needed to put oil in. I also put in some liqui-mol 5w-40 a few months prior. Its also possible, I used 0w-40 but I can't be sure. .....so the last sample might not be something to really look at until I do some more UOAs with consistency. ...One time I did notice a puff of smoke come out at start up. I look everytime now and have yet to see it happen again.
@pete - Ive been thinking about moving to Driven DT40
I'd bore scope the cylinders. Probably not what you want to hear, but you probably have very early bore scoring. That's what is causing the viscosity loss and additive depletion I'd wager. It's not bad enough yet that you have double digit aluminum and silicon levels. I'd also look at fuel trims and maybe even have your engine smoke tested to check for vacuum leaks.
In an instance like this, I would probably steer you to Driven FR50 instead of the DT40 for the added viscosity to provide a stronger oil film if you do find you have early signs of bore scoring.
Yea, with 3 or 4 different oils in there, the latest report is pretty useless.
The puff of smoke is normal if either parked on an incline, especially a sideways one or if you ran the car for a short time and then restarted it, like you washed it, moved it into the garage, and then this next garage start might show the puff.
It is parked on a slight incline and also a little sideways left to right. So that probably explains it. You are a detective at heart.
I'd bore scope the cylinders. Probably not what you want to hear, but you probably have very early bore scoring. That's what is causing the viscosity loss and additive depletion I'd wager. It's not bad enough yet that you have double digit aluminum and silicon levels. I'd also look at fuel trims and maybe even have your engine smoke tested to check for vacuum leaks.
In an instance like this, I would probably steer you to Driven FR50 instead of the DT40 for the added viscosity to provide a stronger oil film if you do find you have early signs of bore scoring.
Thanks Charles. I've been thinking on doing a bore scope. Its kinda maddening always thinking about it. Its like COVID! Do I have it? No. ...wait maybe I do. No I don't its fine. Yes, I have it. ...take me away! hahahehehoho.. If I have it, Ill move to a 4.0. For now, it still runs and drives like a dream. I will use FR50 on my next oil change and do another UOA with speedia.
I don't want to alarm you but I would not jump to conclusions yet. If you don't scope the cylinders I would start doing regular oil analysis but in a much more rigorous fashion not mixing oils and sticking with one single oil at minimum. I have observed that the additives can clash between brands even lasting a couple of OCIs. How much oil exactly are you burning? It's stable and not increasing at all?
It would cost you nothing to check your fuel trims as Charles says. The reason I asked if you smelled the smoke is because people always think when it's smoke from the tail pipes that it's oil but it can also be fuel.
I don't want to alarm you but I would not jump to conclusions yet. If you don't scope the cylinders I would start doing regular oil analysis but in a much more rigorous fashion not mixing oils and sticking with one single oil at minimum. I have observed that the additives can clash between brands even lasting a couple of OCIs. How much oil exactly are you burning? It's stable and not increasing at all?
It would cost you nothing to check your fuel trims as Charles says. The reason I asked if you smelled the smoke is because people always think when it's smoke from the tail pipes that it's oil but it can also be fuel.
Agreed. I am going to scope for my sanity but also check the fuel trim AND only use one oil and do UOA each time. Oil burning seems to be stable since I bought it. No more no less. I suppose at around 3-4k after oil change I need to put a qt in.
Sounds very prudent and you're getting good advice from folks here. As long as the oil consumption stays stable there is not too much to be concerned with but I would pay attention to it -- if you notice an uptick that is not good news. My tail pipes also can get dark faster than my port injected cars but it's always dry soot, wipes right off with a shop towel super easy. You never want that to be wet.
Agree about running the more viscous 5W-50 and it might even cause your oil consumption to decrease a bit. Even if you have the beginning of what is maybe bore scoring, you can potentially keep that engine alive for years to come, even with that ailment, if you play your cards right.
Can you send pics of your two exhaust pipes. Also, need to know with those if you're running a stock exhaust setup with crossover cars or an aftermarket setup with X-cats
In an instance like this, I would probably steer you to Driven FR50 instead of the DT40 for the added viscosity to provide a stronger oil film if you do find you have early signs of bore scoring.
How does FR50 differ from DT50 other than the 5W vs 15W cold temp viscosity? When you check the Driven website it says the FR50 is for the Ford Coyote engine and DT50 is for air cooled Porsche engines. I know it's their trade secret but I wish Driven gave a little more technical information rather than making it proprietary by tying some oils to a specific engine(s).
I don't know much at all about Ford motors but it appears to be a modern engine that utilizes a technology similar to SUMEBore (wire based instead of plasma based): https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6007-M50C
Thanks all. I really appreciate all of the advice.
I do have an aftermarket exhaust but it's only the muffler, haven't added xpipe yet but plan to.
Below are pictures of the left and right pipes. Hard to tell. I've only driven it around 450 miles since I cleaned them. After more miles, the left pipe is noticeably darker but it's always dry and easy to wipe off
I've driven 800 miles since the last oil change and the oil level is at the second bar from top. I don't think my indie filled it to the top bar. I don't remember. I do feel my car always burns more oil than some others on here. Like some say they never have to add oil between changes.
My indie knows I am worried about bore score. He says just keep an eye on it and just enjoy driving it. He doesn't feel there is much to worry about right now. He also said a sooty left pipe doesn't always mean bore score. Still, I am going to have him scope the cylinders.
Switch to Driven FR50 and keep an eye on it. Order enough to be able to top up between oil changes with it instead of other random oils. Change the oil at 4k to 5k mile intervals.
Your tailpipes look better than what I was expecting. Many don't fill this engine with oil all the way to the top bar, especially if it sees any track time. Running it down a bar or two can help control the oil level in the head and prevent the AOS from becoming overwhelmed under load. I never run my Porsches at top bar (and believe in changing the AOS every 40K miles if you don't monitor with a manometer).
Agree with what all the other folks are telling you I would say just start paying sharp attention to it. Provide your own FR50 oil to your indy and ask for whatever back they don't use (can use it for oil top ups). Then you will know exactly how much you put in. Then just write down some notes on paper or on the computer whenever you need to add oil over the OCI. I do 5K OCI's and if it works out that it's sooner than that at 4.5K or whatever because that's when I have time to get to it, I am really not sweating it.
12-22-2021, 05:20 PM
