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Ok, thanks for the hint. JFI: This screw doesn'r exist anymore for PCM3, it was only used up to PCM 2.1
However the thread may still be there. Will check next time I pull the unit out. My solution with the self designed brackes seems to work.
One another note:
I installed the HAL9K firmware over stock rom, but zlink (wireless car play) and DAB+ stopped working. Anyone out there with stock rom available so I can test switching back to original rom?
i got ur msg, when i get mine i will back up the rom of my unit and send to you - however it may be faster to contact bob directly and he can send u the OS to flash to ur pcm. mine will still take awhile.
Originally Posted by bleedingedge
Yes, Bob and I are also in contact.
BTW. I can confirm the device works on a 997 facelift, PCM 3.0 replacement. I advised Bob he can change his advert. They provide two harnesses in the parcel: ISO for 997.1 -> PCM 2.1 and Quadlock for 997.2 PCM3.0
Steering wheels control can change volume and switch through the apps on HU that play various media. Phone controls not tested yet.
@myv: What I have done now: I slided the HU into the slot of the center console. I then marked 2 spots near the bottom of the device on the right (driving direction) and one on the left, where I drilled holes and cut an M4 thread into.
I used some spring metal clips I had lying around to clamp on the device from the outside of the center console. I just used a screw through a hole in my clamping spring brackets and screwed it right into the metal housing pulling the HU against the struts of the center console from both sides.
Just be carefull when you drill the holes. The PCB starts at around 15mm from the bottow of the device. So it is best to drill with the metal side covers removed (easy to remove, no cables or whatsoever attached). You also have to be carefull to use screws that won't be too long, as when you screw them in, they may destroy the PCB or short curcuit between the housing and an electronic component as the housing is full negative ground.
Does that make sense? I am not a native speaker and my technical English is a bit rusty :-)
I contacted Bob for the stock rom as well. He needs to ask the factory for the stock rom, but he is trying to solve the zlink issue for me.
The unit came with Android 9. I upgraded to HAL9k because it allows for some more tweaks (e.g. keeping the last running app active after you switch the car back on)
Before posting a ton of photos that land on ali, any specifics you are interested in?
Here is a good view of the clamp:
I can however confirm, that the struts for a "locking screw" are still there (left and right) in the center console. The right one you can see just in front of my clamp, it stands out a bit.
Downside: there is no threads cut in there, as they are using self cutting screws (I would think it is a 4mm hex bolt). To align the hex bolt first time properly, you will need to remove the left hand side lower dashboard cover altogether. I didn't do this as I didn't want to find out how to remove ignition switch, headlight switch, etc. Otherwise it seems to be removable by pulling the plastic covers facing drivers door and then a couple of TX20 screws bottom, left and right.
In the back of the HU you can see the MOST adapter wrapped in softfoil, I recommend to wrap all the different boxes if you cannot firmly attach them somewhere. Otherwise you will get a lot of rattling noise when driving from behind the HU :-)
Also: When you are not planning to attach a rear camera, DO NOT connect the pink wires between the CAN adapter and the HU - I made this mistake. Every time I put reverse gear in, I now get a black screen with a no video warning...need to fix this when I have time.
Last edited by bleedingedge; 05-11-2020 at 12:31 AM.
I can however confirm, that the struts for a "locking screw" are still there (left and right) in the center console. The right one you can see just in front of my clamp, it stands out a bit.
Downside: there is no threads cut in there, as they are using self cutting screws (I would think it is a 4mm hex bolt). To align the hex bolt first time properly, you will need to remove the left hand side lower dashboard cover altogether. I didn't do this as I didn't want to find out how to remove ignition switch, headlight switch, etc. Otherwise it seems to be removable by pulling the plastic covers facing drivers door and then a couple of TX20 screws bottom, left and right.
Good to know the screw holes are there on the 997.2, thanks for confirming that. There is an easy way to cut the threads without removing the dashboard cover or disassembling things. With the head unit removed, temporarily drive in the screw from the inside the HU compartment toward the outside. There is room to work using a small ratchet and socket and this gets the threads cut. Then remove the screw and reinsert it from the outside using a small wrench. Much easier than trying to cut the threads from the outside.
Good to know the screw holes are there on the 997.2, thanks for confirming that. There is an easy way to cut the threads without removing the dashboard cover or disassembling things. With the head unit removed, temporarily drive in the screw from the inside the HU compartment toward the outside. There is room to work using a small ratchet and socket and this gets the threads cut. Then remove the screw and reinsert it from the outside using a small wrench. Much easier than trying to cut the threads from the outside.
man you are the master of this unit, you went through it all
Thanks 911s. Funny thing is I don't even have it anymore as I sold my 997.1 and bought a 997.2 last year. I'm happy with the PCM 3 as it has enough modern conveniences (touchscreen, USB port, bluetooth, XM radio) to make it usable. The PCM 2.1 is a real piece of junk though, absolutely unusable on long trips. People talk about the IMS bearing and bore scoring, but the PCM was the real scandal of the 997.1. How Porsche allowed that POS in a 100k car is beyond me.
different strokes for different folks, only you can decide what options you want with your HU. i personally went with the full optioned HU and equally cost a bit more, hence, you'll see a number of the same looking unit with different hardware specs in that link and accordingly choose the one that suits you best.
on the add-ons link; if you consider the full optioned HU, some but not all of the optional add-ons will already come built in so you'll want to choose the extras that you need.
you'll need the optional "MOST optical fiber decoder" if you have the boss system.
on the install side, i have not yet installed mine so i can't comment on this but fellow members over here including "PV997" and "bleedingedge" and others are very helpful and will answer this question for you.
get in contact with "Bob" the sales person via whats-app on (+86 1589979 7723) before you order and finalize your order requirements, shipment and so forth with him, he's reliable and will secure your order and will send you a video clip of your final product before shipment.
thank you so much guys - keep updating with info and keeping us in the loop
i will post my findings and process when mine arrives.
Originally Posted by bleedingedge
I contacted Bob for the stock rom as well. He needs to ask the factory for the stock rom, but he is trying to solve the zlink issue for me.
The unit came with Android 9. I upgraded to HAL9k because it allows for some more tweaks (e.g. keeping the last running app active after you switch the car back on)
Before posting a ton of photos that land on ali, any specifics you are interested in?
Here is a good view of the clamp:
I can however confirm, that the struts for a "locking screw" are still there (left and right) in the center console. The right one you can see just in front of my clamp, it stands out a bit.
Downside: there is no threads cut in there, as they are using self cutting screws (I would think it is a 4mm hex bolt). To align the hex bolt first time properly, you will need to remove the left hand side lower dashboard cover altogether. I didn't do this as I didn't want to find out how to remove ignition switch, headlight switch, etc. Otherwise it seems to be removable by pulling the plastic covers facing drivers door and then a couple of TX20 screws bottom, left and right.
In the back of the HU you can see the MOST adapter wrapped in softfoil, I recommend to wrap all the different boxes if you cannot firmly attach them somewhere. Otherwise you will get a lot of rattling noise when driving from behind the HU :-)
Also: When you are not planning to attach a rear camera, DO NOT connect the pink wires between the CAN adapter and the HU - I made this mistake. Every time I put reverse gear in, I now get a black screen with a no video warning...need to fix this when I have time.
I took the PX6, which is the latest Rockchip CPU. It is 6 core. Don't be fooled that there is an 8-core CPU (PX5) and assume it is better. The 6 core CPU has 2 high performance cores and 4 engergy efficient cores. The high performance cores have a much higher frequency than each core on the PX5. So I recommend to go with PX6.
I took the option of DSP and CarPlay built in. What happened to me though was, that I broke my carplay functionality when upgrading to the HAL9K Modded firmware and found no way (yet) to re-enable.
Other than that you will need the CAN Bus adapter to get steering wheel controls working. I have not yet managed to get the right side turning wheel to work, what works is volume, call start, call end, and the mode button on the left side of the steering wheel.
As mentioned, if you have BOSE you will need the MOST adapter. This converts the analogue Chinch audio out to a digital fibre signal.
I also took the option of having the unit fitted with Bluetooth 5.0 versus 4.0. It is said that 5.0 works better with iPhones, as it supports LowEnergy bluetooth. Recommend also to go for the IPS screen as opposed to the standard TN panel. IPS LCDs provide much better colour stability when looking at the screen from an angle, which is what you do in a car.
With regards to the USB ports I have done the following: I got myself a new (used) CD box on ebay, the one that is fitted inside the glove box. I removed the CD trays inside (open the tray, then there is two small plastic clips on the side - one per side - you need to push in, then the tray can be removed) . Using a high speed electric cutting tool (Name in Germany is Dremel) I cut a windows to the backside of the CD holder.
The HU comes with 5 USB plugs (Labeled A,B,1,2,5V). The wires for port 1,2 and +5V I ran from the HU towards the back of the glove box. I then attached a short USB extension cable (like 10 inch - I used 30cm) so the USB wiring can be unplugged when the glove box is removed. With the glovebox removed I fitted the new modded CD holder to the glove box (2 scres) ran the USB extension cable's wires from the back into the CD holder box and fattached the connectors with double sided soft adhesive tape. Port 1 and 2 are mountable ports, so you can attach a USB stick, etc so the HU can read soundfiles, updates, etc. The +5V port just seems to be a charger.
Glove box can be removed in 15 minutes, no big deal at all. And much easier to stow the cables, adapters behind the HU anyways.
I also ran one of the A or B USB ports into the front trunk near the battery. Just above the accelerator you will find a rubber seal which is covering an access hole between inside of car and outside. Easiest is to remove the battery, you will see the black, 2-3 inch round rubber seal. Just cut it with a sharp knife. I attached a 4G USB stick to the USB port and attached it, again with double sided soft tape beneath the plastic cover so I have easy access to change the SIM card. This 4G stick now is my WIFI hotspot for the HU. Much easier than switching teathering on and off on my iPhone. I like permanent solutions.
Overall: Don't forget to wrap any new cables with textile adhesive bands and fix them somewhere in the car (e.g. use existing cable guards or attache them with cable srips to existing harness). Otherwise you will get rattling noises or if sh... hits the fan a cable will wrap around your accelerator when driving. Also cover the CAN/MOST boxes with soft foam wrap to avoid noise.
WhatsApp does work in CN and with Bob. Standby for a list what you need/want. I posted something this morning, but it is still in review with the moderators. Waiting to be released...
So, my reply has not been released. Trying again.
What you want is the pX6 headunit. The PX6 has the latest six core CPU. This one is better than the 8 core PX5 as it comes with 2 high frequency cores and 4 low energy cores. The PX5 has 8 slower cores. You can bundle some hardware with the HU, this then is build into the hardware. I choose Apple Car Play and DSP. Be aware as as it currently stands the CarPlay functionality is broken when flashing with a modded firmware.
You also need the CAN adapter, this reads input from the CAN bus (e.g. steering wheel buttons) and makes it usable for the HU. If you have BOSE you need the MOST adapter. This adapter translates the analogue Chinch out audio signal into a digital fibre signal which is what your Bose systems reads.
I recommend to go with the IPS panel upgrade as well. The IPS panel can be viewed much better from an angle than the standard TN LCD panel. You want this in a car. Lastly, I went for the bluetooth 5 option as it provides BT/LE function, which will become more important going forward. Also the bandwidth for audio codecs and reach is better.
It is not hard to install, but you will need some basic understanding.
First: Do you want FM radio? If you have a PCM system today, you most likely have a diversity antenna system in your 997. Chances are this cannot be used anymore but I did not test. The system is a HF/ZF system. Meaning: You have for antennas in your windscreen (two left and two right) These are built so to have a 90 degree angle between each of the antennas on each side. The 90 degree "twist" makes the antenna recieve reflected radio waves (e.g. by reflections due to obstacles) The antenna controller recieves the signals from all 4 Antennas (HF) and provides an information to the PCM via ZF about reception. PCM then selects the best antenna. You will note a 6 pole FAKRA plug (Curry) on you PCM, this is the ZF plug.I have not tested, to just use the HF signal and leave the zF disconnected. I replaced one antenna amplifier under the right hand A-strut cover with an aftermarket one, which also splits out the DAB signal. I ran new antenna cables from there behind the glove box to the HU. You may get away though with not changing anything, but leave the ZF plug disconnected. Then you also do not need to 12V power the antenna system with the "Amplifier out" cable coming off the HU's harness. If you use an aftermarket Antenna amplifier, most likely it is looking for phantom power. The radio adapter coming with the HU can inject phantom power. Just connect the 12V in from that radio adapter to the AMP out of the harness. If using OEM antenna system, try without first.
Other than this what you need to do:
Remove BOSE amplifier/Woofer in the passenger footwell, if you have a convertible. To do that: There is a T-shaped plastic part where the 12V power outlet is. Just pull out. Below there is a torx screw. Unscrew, and you can pull the bracket with the 12V power plug out, remove the connector. Below you will find a Torx30 screw, which holds the woofer. Unscrew. You can then pull the woofer towards the back of the car and slide out. Disconnect the plug. Coupe owners, just remove the two radio racks's side covers. Loose the radio locking screw on the passenger side (if there). I recommend to also remove the glove box, as you have much more space to attach and secure all the boxes. There is videos about this on the internet. PCM2.1 comes with an ISO harness car-side, PCM3 with quadlock. You will have both harnesses in the parcel. Just attach the CAN adapter to the right one. If you do not have a reverse camera, do not connect the two pink wires, they come disconnected also from the factory.
When storing the harness and boxes, wrap the harness with textile adhesive tape and cover the boxes with some thin foam wrap. Otherwise you will get rattling noise when driving.
[to be continued]
Last edited by bleedingedge; 05-15-2020 at 01:40 AM.
05-09-2020, 03:23 PM
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