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Im guessing the android app is something that is installed afterwards? But is there an actual physical plug for Sirius XM vs regular radio?
yes, you'd install it from the Play Store, and it would use data from WiFi, phone hotspot, onboard SIM, etc. But not from SAT
Originally Posted by Sylverlee
ok so XM radio only in EU not North America
Sirius/XM radio doesn't exist outside of the US/Canada, which is part of the reason why a company making a HU designed to work globally doesn't bother obtaining an onerous license and including specialized hardware for a small demographic
Last edited by MattDevoCustoms; 07-21-2023 at 04:26 PM.
I routed mine through the driver's rear grommet. I removed the interior panels for the B pillar, the C pillar, the Bose Sub, the rear package shelf and panel below the rear windshield.
How do you remove the B, C pillar and panel below the rear windshield?
Hi All:
I don't post much on the forum anymore but I have a question and in return I will share my solution for mounting the head unit. I built a set of rails to hold it in place and then locked it with the screws in the console frame. I'll have to pull the head unit to measure the rails, but it only took about an hour and ten bucks at the local ace hardware to construct the rails. there is a stepdown in the height for the last 30mm or so. I'll pull the radio and take a pic and measure for you guys.
So here's my question: how do I get Android Auto to work? I added the android auto/carplay feature to the head unit when I purchased it in late February of this year. The OS has this CarbitLink app and it will connect but I never get my Android Auto on the phone to connect to the Head Unit -- I have done a ton of searching and I'm thinking I didn't get what I ordered. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I would be much obliged
Oh, here's the unit I purchased: 8"1280*720P Qualcomm SM6215 8Core 6G+128G Android 12 Car DVD GPS Radio For Porsche 911 Boxster Cayman 987 Head Unit Auto Stereo with the android auto/carplay feature.
As an aside, bypassing the stock antenna amplifier in the passenger foot well with 2 of these (I taped the over the connections afterward) got me all of radio reception I was missing.
OH, FFS that did it. Thank you sir. I'll dig into the dash when it gets cooler tonight and post pictures and measurements for the rails I made.
Thanks again.
Okie Dokie, here we go.
I just wanted the head unit to mount into the chassis solid and stay there so I did two things.
First, I got a second securing screw for the left side to match the right side screw on the car console chassis. Mine only came with the right side so I'm assuming that's the way they made it but there is another hole on the left side that matches the right side screw position.
The other thing I did was construct a pair of rails from some 1/4" Aluminum channel stock I picked up at Ace Hardware, I also got 6, #3 x 3/8 (maybe they were listed as #3x10mm) and cut 2 pieces with a length of 125mm then cut the open sides so they were about 5mm tall. 1/4" channel The open sides were cut to ~5mm
After a bit of fitting, I found that there was a step down on the rear channel guide in the console chassis, I made a cut to set the rail width at 8mm but ended up at ~7.5mm. This "step cut" started at 40mm from the stepped end. This is also where the first mounting hole was located, I drill that hole and then lined the front hole up to mark its position. Just so you know I cut all of this by hand with a hacksaw and finished with a couple of flat files. What the piece looks like on the right side The total length Length of full width section Length of stepped section Height of stepped section, mounting screw is at 40mm from stepped end and step terminates above the screw.
I used a dab of loctite on the screws and only used 2 screws on each rail as the middle screw hole is in front of one of the electronics pieces in the head unit on the right side.
There you have it. The head unit now slides in easily and locks (and can be located side to side) with the two screws. It has stayed in place for the last 3 months and is easy to remove and reinstall.
Thanks,
Gary
Last edited by latonnelier; 08-13-2023 at 04:13 PM.
Okay feeling kind of dumb. Not my first stereo, but bout the Owtosin Snapdragon 8 core unit. I have a 987.1 Boxster with Bose. Seller assured me I had everything I needed.
I connected the main harnesses up in the only logical way but can't get the unit to power on. There were two plugs that had the identical input into the stereo but one didn't fit the output from the car. Anyone able to help me unwrap this puzzle?
Two connectors that came with the radio A has a Canbus decoder attached, but doesn't seem to have the write female end and B is what I wound up using.
Okay feeling kind of dumb. Not my first stereo, but bout the Owtosin Snapdragon 8 core unit. I have a 987.1 Boxster with Bose. Seller assured me I had everything I needed.
I connected the main harnesses up in the only logical way but can't get the unit to power on. There were two plugs that had the identical input into the stereo but one didn't fit the output from the car. Anyone able to help me unwrap this puzzle?
Two connectors that came with the radio A has a Canbus decoder attached, but doesn't seem to have the write female end and B is what I wound up using.
A Pins
B Pins
All hooked up
Any one smarter than I have thoughts?
in the picture "all hooked up" it is clear that the canbus decoder module is not connected (white plug at edge of box), without that the unit cannot power on as it provides the power-on signal to the HU when the car has accessory power on. Also, check that all the wires from the canbus module are connected to the HU and ISO connector ("B"). Some of these harnesses have a small 2-pin connector in the middle which must be moved depending on if the A or B plug is used
edit: I can also see that the fiber optic box is not wired up, without that you will have no audio output
in the picture "all hooked up" it is clear that the canbus decoder module is not connected (white plug at edge of box), without that the unit cannot power on as it provides the power-on signal to the HU when the car has accessory power on. Also, check that all the wires from the canbus module are connected to the HU and ISO connector ("B"). Some of these harnesses have a small 2-pin connector in the middle which must be moved depending on if the A or B plug is used
edit: I can also see that the fiber optic box is not wired up, without that you will have no audio output
I think I see what you're saying. So the fiber optic / MOST box needs to get hooked in to B+ and ACC+ wires. What's the best place to tap those? Also, is anything supposed to plug into the front of the box where there's a port?
I guess my next question logically is after the power issue is solved will I have an issue with sound since the canbus decoder isn't hooked up. But It doesn't seem like the "A" connector can attach to anything.
I think I see what you're saying. So the fiber optic / MOST box needs to get hooked in to B+ and ACC+ wires. What's the best place to tap those? Also, is anything supposed to plug into the front of the box where there's a port?
I guess my next question logically is after the power issue is solved will I have an issue with sound since the canbus decoder isn't hooked up. But It doesn't seem like the "A" connector can attach to anything.
ok, so you have two separate wire harnesses - A and B. You need to move the canbus box from the A harness to B, then toss the A harness aside as it's not used.
for the fiber optic box, the red/yellow/black wires need to tap into the same colors on the main B harness. Then the orange fiber optic cable connects to the box (after the terminator plug removed)
ok, so you have two separate wire harnesses - A and B. You need to move the canbus box from the A harness to B, then toss the A harness aside as it's not used.
for the fiber optic box, the red/yellow/black wires need to tap into the same colors on the main B harness. Then the orange fiber optic cable connects to the box (after the terminator plug removed)
You are amazing. Okay have the bad larry powered up, but no sound.
Does that mean I have to get the RCA one plugged in to the B slot on the right of the radio and then splice some RCA pig tails in to get from the main harness speaker outputs to the back of the radio?
You are amazing. Okay have the bad larry powered up, but no sound.
Does that mean I have to get the RCA one plugged in to the B slot on the right of the radio and then splice some RCA pig tails in to get from the main harness speaker outputs to the back of the radio?
lol no, it means you need to connect the front line-out RCAs (B6 and B7 in that diagram) to the fiber box (which has RCA pigtails). That converts the line-level analog signal to optical, and sends it to the amp. The fiber box needs to be spliced into the main harness for power/ground as described earlier. I should have taken pics of this when I wired up @jonan's unit
Hmm, I tried that. But wouldn't that only handle the fronts. Still no sound. Also you're a saint and I owe you a donation
yes, you lose fader control with this setup -- the same signal goes to the fronts and the rears. The only workaround I'm aware of is a more expensive (~$250) fiber conversion box.
I'd make sure the fiber box is getting power - check with a multimeter if you have one. There might also be an amp turn-on wire which needs to connect to the factory wiring plugs -- check all of those and make sure there aren't any with wires connected which don't have a connected wire on the adapter harness for the new HU.
Thanks @MattDevoCustoms I finally got everything working with sound. Your hunch was right the MOST box was not getting power. I switched where I was tapping the lines. Now onto my final problem, I can't get the SIM active. T-Mobile claims the unit is locked, I can see 2 SIM slots in the settings and it seems like one slot is pulling in the T-Mobile settings and the other maybe China Unicom but I can't figure out the crossover. So back into forum fishing!