When bore scoring isn't (997.2 bore scoring fear)
07-24-2019, 09:15 AM
#121
Rennlist Member
Maybe not the craziest option, but you can buy an extended warranty from Fidelity to cover yourself for the future in case this drags on too long or is inconclusive. There's one fellow that the RLers use to get great prices on Fidelity warranties without inspection. I did it in 2017 and it was super easy via phone/text/email. Fidelity didn't bat an eye when I needed to have my transmission replaced about 3 months later. Anyway, good luck! I will jump on the bandwagon and say that the knocking is not normal. Fingers crossed for ya.
07-24-2019, 09:19 AM
#122
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
07-24-2019, 09:30 AM
#123
Three Wheelin'
07-24-2019, 09:50 AM
#124
Rennlist Member
Good and bad independent 3rd party's though so some research required on that too. RacerWannabee had the PPI done and was told the knocking sound was normal. I'm not a mechanic but can still tell that's not a normal sound of a healthy engine. Btw.....I know it's a long time ago and things were probably done differently then but did you have the 912 that crapped out in Topeka, KS inspected by a 3rd party before purchasing? Just curious how common incompetent PPI's are.
@sandwedge This was another place and time. I think it was an ask $3200 912 that I paid $2800 for - you roll the dice and take your chances. I was a pretty good horse trader so I was probably over confident. I knew things like compression checks etc but through the 90s and as late as 2004 I could pretty much suss out a car with a test drive and a little peeking and poking. Most of my friends were wrenchers of varying competency but my favorite story is how I needed to put a new clutch, to bearing etc in that car. Did it in the driveway by myself with a floor jack, two jackstands and some basic hand tools - done in 90 minutes and for about $150. The engine rebuild was done using a bigbore kit and if I recall less than $2000 total. I know - two marks against me. I was cheap and an outlaw. A rebel.
07-24-2019, 11:36 AM
#125
- TLDR: use a stethoscope and chase the sound down
- I faced something similar to this after an over-rev at the track albeit with a different car
- Ticking/buzzing sound after an over-rev (was going for 3rd and got 1st); didn't let clutch all the way out, but the car did lurch/dive
- I was certain my engine was toast afterwards......
- Checked compression --> good
- Checked leak-down --> good
- Pulled valve cover --> no gross visible damage; timing chain looked clean too.
- Checked Plugs --> clean
- Bought a ~ 45 wifi endoscope --> cylinder walls cleen
- Checked valve lashes --> within spec
- Pulled oil pain --> no Metal
- Checked connecting rod play --> within spec
- Cut filter --> no metal
- Resembled everything and turn car on....... and Buzz/Tick still there....
- Then I grabbed a Harbor Freight stethoscope and tracked the sound down. I listened everywhere and chased to to it loudest point... which was behind the alternator. Pulled the accessory belt off and the tick/buzz was gone. There was a loose peace of metal in the alternator bouncing around and yet working properly. I was so certain it was the motor I was about to have it pulled and have a professional have a look at it. I guess what I'm trying to say is don't jump to conclusions. Gather more information.
- I faced something similar to this after an over-rev at the track albeit with a different car
- Ticking/buzzing sound after an over-rev (was going for 3rd and got 1st); didn't let clutch all the way out, but the car did lurch/dive
- I was certain my engine was toast afterwards......
- Checked compression --> good
- Checked leak-down --> good
- Pulled valve cover --> no gross visible damage; timing chain looked clean too.
- Checked Plugs --> clean
- Bought a ~ 45 wifi endoscope --> cylinder walls cleen
- Checked valve lashes --> within spec
- Pulled oil pain --> no Metal
- Checked connecting rod play --> within spec
- Cut filter --> no metal
- Resembled everything and turn car on....... and Buzz/Tick still there....
- Then I grabbed a Harbor Freight stethoscope and tracked the sound down. I listened everywhere and chased to to it loudest point... which was behind the alternator. Pulled the accessory belt off and the tick/buzz was gone. There was a loose peace of metal in the alternator bouncing around and yet working properly. I was so certain it was the motor I was about to have it pulled and have a professional have a look at it. I guess what I'm trying to say is don't jump to conclusions. Gather more information.
The following 3 users liked this post by Auric:
07-24-2019, 01:03 PM
#126
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
- TLDR: use a stethoscope and chase the sound down
- I faced something similar to this after an over-rev at the track albeit with a different car
- Ticking/buzzing sound after an over-rev (was going for 3rd and got 1st); didn't let clutch all the way out, but the car did lurch/dive
- I was certain my engine was toast afterwards......
- Checked compression --> good
- Checked leak-down --> good
- Pulled valve cover --> no gross visible damage; timing chain looked clean too.
- Checked Plugs --> clean
- Bought a ~ 45 wifi endoscope --> cylinder walls cleen
- Checked valve lashes --> within spec
- Pulled oil pain --> no Metal
- Checked connecting rod play --> within spec
- Cut filter --> no metal
- Resembled everything and turn car on....... and Buzz/Tick still there....
- Then I grabbed a Harbor Freight stethoscope and tracked the sound down. I listened everywhere and chased to to it loudest point... which was behind the alternator. Pulled the accessory belt off and the tick/buzz was gone. There was a loose peace of metal in the alternator bouncing around and yet working properly. I was so certain it was the motor I was about to have it pulled and have a professional have a look at it. I guess what I'm trying to say is don't jump to conclusions. Gather more information.
- I faced something similar to this after an over-rev at the track albeit with a different car
- Ticking/buzzing sound after an over-rev (was going for 3rd and got 1st); didn't let clutch all the way out, but the car did lurch/dive
- I was certain my engine was toast afterwards......
- Checked compression --> good
- Checked leak-down --> good
- Pulled valve cover --> no gross visible damage; timing chain looked clean too.
- Checked Plugs --> clean
- Bought a ~ 45 wifi endoscope --> cylinder walls cleen
- Checked valve lashes --> within spec
- Pulled oil pain --> no Metal
- Checked connecting rod play --> within spec
- Cut filter --> no metal
- Resembled everything and turn car on....... and Buzz/Tick still there....
- Then I grabbed a Harbor Freight stethoscope and tracked the sound down. I listened everywhere and chased to to it loudest point... which was behind the alternator. Pulled the accessory belt off and the tick/buzz was gone. There was a loose peace of metal in the alternator bouncing around and yet working properly. I was so certain it was the motor I was about to have it pulled and have a professional have a look at it. I guess what I'm trying to say is don't jump to conclusions. Gather more information.
07-24-2019, 02:06 PM
#127
Rennlist Member
- TLDR: use a stethoscope and chase the sound down
- I faced something similar to this after an over-rev at the track albeit with a different car
- Ticking/buzzing sound after an over-rev (was going for 3rd and got 1st); didn't let clutch all the way out, but the car did lurch/dive
- I was certain my engine was toast afterwards......
- Checked compression --> good
- Checked leak-down --> good
- Pulled valve cover --> no gross visible damage; timing chain looked clean too.
- Checked Plugs --> clean
- Bought a ~ 45 wifi endoscope --> cylinder walls cleen
- Checked valve lashes --> within spec
- Pulled oil pain --> no Metal
- Checked connecting rod play --> within spec
- Cut filter --> no metal
- Resembled everything and turn car on....... and Buzz/Tick still there....
- Then I grabbed a Harbor Freight stethoscope and tracked the sound down. I listened everywhere and chased to to it loudest point... which was behind the alternator. Pulled the accessory belt off and the tick/buzz was gone. There was a loose peace of metal in the alternator bouncing around and yet working properly. I was so certain it was the motor I was about to have it pulled and have a professional have a look at it. I guess what I'm trying to say is don't jump to conclusions. Gather more information.
- I faced something similar to this after an over-rev at the track albeit with a different car
- Ticking/buzzing sound after an over-rev (was going for 3rd and got 1st); didn't let clutch all the way out, but the car did lurch/dive
- I was certain my engine was toast afterwards......
- Checked compression --> good
- Checked leak-down --> good
- Pulled valve cover --> no gross visible damage; timing chain looked clean too.
- Checked Plugs --> clean
- Bought a ~ 45 wifi endoscope --> cylinder walls cleen
- Checked valve lashes --> within spec
- Pulled oil pain --> no Metal
- Checked connecting rod play --> within spec
- Cut filter --> no metal
- Resembled everything and turn car on....... and Buzz/Tick still there....
- Then I grabbed a Harbor Freight stethoscope and tracked the sound down. I listened everywhere and chased to to it loudest point... which was behind the alternator. Pulled the accessory belt off and the tick/buzz was gone. There was a loose peace of metal in the alternator bouncing around and yet working properly. I was so certain it was the motor I was about to have it pulled and have a professional have a look at it. I guess what I'm trying to say is don't jump to conclusions. Gather more information.
07-24-2019, 02:16 PM
#128
Rennlist Member
Maybe not the craziest option, but you can buy an extended warranty from Fidelity to cover yourself for the future in case this drags on too long or is inconclusive. There's one fellow that the RLers use to get great prices on Fidelity warranties without inspection. I did it in 2017 and it was super easy via phone/text/email. Fidelity didn't bat an eye when I needed to have my transmission replaced about 3 months later. Anyway, good luck! I will jump on the bandwagon and say that the knocking is not normal. Fingers crossed for ya.
07-24-2019, 02:46 PM
#129
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
07-24-2019, 05:27 PM
#130
Rennlist Member
In other news, a 996 owner had a loud knock that was really noticeable and it turned out to be a coolant hose slapping against the inner body wall...
Point is still valid - always track down exactly what the cause is, because the rest is just guessing
Point is still valid - always track down exactly what the cause is, because the rest is just guessing
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RacerWannabe (07-24-2019)
07-24-2019, 05:44 PM
#131
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Also correct. Will update as soon as I have more info.
07-24-2019, 06:00 PM
#132
Three Wheelin'
Year may be a factor. Reach out to Michael Jourdan at Mossy Motors and find out for sure. I actually just got a quote from him earlier today on a Macan we are pursuing.
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RacerWannabe (07-24-2019)
07-25-2019, 01:55 AM
#134
Nordschleife Master
@sandwedge This was another place and time. I think it was an ask $3200 912 that I paid $2800 for - you roll the dice and take your chances. I was a pretty good horse trader so I was probably over confident. I knew things like compression checks etc but through the 90s and as late as 2004 I could pretty much suss out a car with a test drive and a little peeking and poking. Most of my friends were wrenchers of varying competency but my favorite story is how I needed to put a new clutch, to bearing etc in that car. Did it in the driveway by myself with a floor jack, two jackstands and some basic hand tools - done in 90 minutes and for about $150. The engine rebuild was done using a bigbore kit and if I recall less than $2000 total. I know - two marks against me. I was cheap and an outlaw. A rebel.
Absolutely. Better lucky than good, I did the same thing with the same rebel mindset in the mid seventies. Bought an orange 1970 911T with no inspection. Wasn't even aware of anything like a PPI plus I wanted the car so bad I didn't want to find anything wrong with it anyway. I looked at it, listened to it, drove it and bought it, confident it was a good car. Which it turned out to be. Again, I just plain lucked out.
Other than that, can't believe the minuscule repair costs you're quoting of that 912. But like you said, those were different times and different cars. Wouldn't even enter my mind trying to do a clutch job on a 997 in my driveway.
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MexicoBlueTurboS (07-25-2019)
