Notices
997 Forum 2005-2012
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

997.2 3.8 Engine Failure

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-22-2019, 07:20 PM
  #841  
C4SDayton
Pro
 
C4SDayton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 530
Received 57 Likes on 48 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Fahrer
You make too many assumptions. This type of thinking is what contributes to the myth that garage queens are doomed to an early death. My 997 is a garage queen an it is not a daily driver. I drive it only on good weather days and I always warm it up appropriately ( drive away with light throttle and and less than 3K rpms until the oil reaches an indicated 200F). I always drive Porsche at least 45 minutes but generally 1.5 hours at a time. It exists in my garage purely for my driving pleasure. I drive my DD to places like the post office because other drivers are often careless.

Actually, I break my cars in and warm all of my cars up the same way and I never had an oil consumption issue with any of them.. even the 911.
My comments have nothing to do with decision of how anyone uses their car. Short drives on cold engine are hard on cars. Just a simple fact. I enjoy driving mine everyday, everywhere, -20 to 100 degrees F, 2 miles or 200 miles. I have a garage queen convertible but don't care, I drive it when I want too just too busy with work. I fix things that need it and keep up on service and warm up cars driving as many suggest. Last year came close to getting an NSX 1991 9k miles. That's a queen there. Needed AWD for winter, hence C4S(wanted more than truly needed maybe, like big hips).
Old 05-22-2019, 08:28 PM
  #842  
Mike Murphy
Rennlist Member
 
Mike Murphy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 8,946
Received 1,728 Likes on 1,074 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Fahrer
I should add that some folks feel that all you need to do is bring the oil temp up to 212F ( boiling point of water at sea level) to remove all of the water from the crankcase. This is not the case. Actually if these engines only got up to an oil temp of 160F and were run for and hour, they would have less water in the crankcase than an engine that has reaches 212F and has been shut down after another 5 minutes. It takes time. When you bring a pot of water to a boil on the stove you still have a pot full of water. The pot will eventually dry out whether at 212F or 160F.
+1
Old 05-23-2019, 08:37 AM
  #843  
black997er
Instructor
 
black997er's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Fahrer
You make too many assumptions. This type of thinking is what contributes to the myth that garage queens are doomed to an early death. My 997 is a garage queen an it is not a daily driver. I drive it only on good weather days and I always warm it up appropriately ( drive away with light throttle and and less than 3K rpms until the oil reaches an indicated 200F). I always drive Porsche at least 45 minutes but generally 1.5 hours at a time. It exists in my garage purely for my driving pleasure. I drive my DD to places like the post office because other drivers are often careless.

Actually, I break my cars in and warm all of my cars up the same way and I never had an oil consumption issue with any of them.. even the 911.
How are you able to even shift below 3k rpms? Your owner’s manual has shift curves that show you shouldn’t be shifting below 2.8k rpm.
Old 05-23-2019, 11:35 AM
  #844  
Wayne Smith
Rennlist Member
 
Wayne Smith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 5,146
Received 1,211 Likes on 777 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by black997er
How are you able to even shift below 3k rpms? Your owner’s manual has shift curves that show you shouldn’t be shifting below 2.8k rpm.
I assume you are driving a 997.1. The 9A1 motor is significantly different than previous motors when it comes to shifting at lower rpms. Holding the motor below 3K is pretty easy, especially with a PDK that is actually programmed to favor low rpm shifting (unless you put your foot down).
Old 05-23-2019, 11:58 AM
  #845  
HenryPcar
Three Wheelin'
 
HenryPcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,970
Received 233 Likes on 168 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by black997er
How are you able to even shift below 3k rpms? Your owner’s manual has shift curves that show you shouldn’t be shifting below 2.8k rpm.
Cant you shift manually even with PDK ?
Old 05-23-2019, 12:15 PM
  #846  
Petza914
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
Petza914's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Clemson, SC
Posts: 26,033
Received 6,614 Likes on 4,204 Posts
Default

I don't have any trouble keeping my. 1 cars between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm during the warm up cycle until the oil is at 180 F. The car will run 74mph in 6th gear below 3,000 rpm, so even if you have to go let on a highway before it's fully warmed up you can still achieve this.
Old 05-23-2019, 02:20 PM
  #847  
Mike Murphy
Rennlist Member
 
Mike Murphy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 8,946
Received 1,728 Likes on 1,074 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Petza914
I don't have any trouble keeping my. 1 cars between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm during the warm up cycle until the oil is at 180 F. The car will run 74mph in 6th gear below 3,000 rpm, so even if you have to go let on a highway before it's fully warmed up you can still achieve this.
Agree, only difficult in 1st gear, which doesn’t really count anyway.
Old 05-23-2019, 03:07 PM
  #848  
Fahrer
Three Wheelin'
 
Fahrer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,648
Likes: 0
Received 90 Likes on 59 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by black997er
How are you able to even shift below 3k rpms? Your owner’s manual has shift curves that show you shouldn’t be shifting below 2.8k rpm.
It is very easy. You shift by 3K and end up in the 2000s, then you do it again
Old 05-25-2019, 01:54 PM
  #849  
T4S
Instructor
 
T4S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 123
Received 14 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Long time lurker here, bought a 997.2 a year ago. This forum has been so helpful - thank you to the participants in the community. I've been a little tuned out here and just recently read the thread start to finish and watched videos in short time. I too want to commend Jake, Charles, and Baz for all they are doing to bring concern to the forefront. I will be following along to find out about proper ways to treat our cars. Good tips so far with more to come it seems. My car is consuming more oil than i'm used to but this is my first Porsche. Just ordered a UOA.

Bronz I feel for you but in ways I'm envious that your car is disassembled at Flat6.

Selfishly glad I wasn't on pins and needles following this saga over the winter - would've crushed my mood and hampered ski season. Reading all the way thru in spare time over 2 days was a roller coaster.

Last edited by T4S; 05-25-2019 at 02:48 PM.
Old 05-25-2019, 03:08 PM
  #850  
MexicoBlueTurboS
Rennlist Member
 
MexicoBlueTurboS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,013
Received 239 Likes on 141 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Petza914
I use a bottle of Techron in the last full tank before an oil change in all my vehicles. I do it right before the change so that anything it cleans or releases that's trapped by the oil (carbon deposits) will not be in the oil for any longer than necessary..
I've learned a lot in this thread - thanks to all - especially, Jake, Charles, Baz and Pete.

First.. Anyone want to buy an unopened case of DT40 ? LOL

Secondly - Pete do you go to the trouble to pull your oil sample before the Techron? Going with the assumption that if it affects the oil it affects oil analysis.

Lastly - is it overkill to change to DI40 and also use Cera Tec ? (This is for a Turbo S)

Last edited by MexicoBlueTurboS; 05-25-2019 at 03:31 PM.
Old 05-25-2019, 08:49 PM
  #851  
black997er
Instructor
 
black997er's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Wayne Smith
I assume you are driving a 997.1. The 9A1 motor is significantly different than previous motors when it comes to shifting at lower rpms. Holding the motor below 3K is pretty easy, especially with a PDK that is actually programmed to favor low rpm shifting (unless you put your foot down).
I’m actually rocking a .2 with a 6-MT. I may be wrong about the shift curves for this platform, but my motor revs up and down so fast that I find it hard to shift at 3k rpm without jamming the gears in when cold. Maybe my synchros are more worn than most people’s here but even with new MT fluid, Cup car cables and a factory short shifter kit, I find it more comfortable and natural to shift at between 3.5k and 4K during the warmup cycle.
Old 05-25-2019, 08:49 PM
  #852  
Petza914
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
Petza914's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Clemson, SC
Posts: 26,033
Received 6,614 Likes on 4,204 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MexicoBlueTurboS
I've learned a lot in this thread - thanks to all - especially, Jake, Charles, Baz and Pete.

First.. Anyone want to buy an unopened case of DT40 ? LOL

Secondly - Pete do you go to the trouble to pull your oil sample before the Techron? Going with the assumption that if it affects the oil it affects oil analysis.

Lastly - is it overkill to change to DI40 and also use Cera Tec ? (This is for a Turbo S)

I let Blackstone know about the Techron in the first few oil samples I submitted and they said it doesn't show up since it burns away and

I didn't need to mention it.

How much for the case of DT40?
Old 05-26-2019, 06:11 PM
  #853  
PhillyNate
Racer
 
PhillyNate's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 472
Received 120 Likes on 88 Posts
Default

I’ve been away from this thread awhile. I have a 9A1 motor but WITHOUT DFI. So the DFI is the aggravating factor. No DFI, theoretically no problem correct..
Old 05-26-2019, 07:43 PM
  #854  
Balr14
Burning Brakes
 
Balr14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Menomonee Falls, WI.
Posts: 1,190
Received 167 Likes on 113 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PhillyNate
I’ve been away from this thread awhile. I have a 9A1 motor but WITHOUT DFI. So the DFI is the aggravating factor. No DFI, theoretically no problem correct..
The only documented cases of bore scoring have been the result of cold seizure. The leading causes of cold seizure appear to be block fatigue or poor warm up practices.
Old 05-26-2019, 07:45 PM
  #855  
Petza914
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
Petza914's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Clemson, SC
Posts: 26,033
Received 6,614 Likes on 4,204 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PhillyNate
I’ve been away from this thread awhile. I have a 9A1 motor but WITHOUT DFI. So the DFI is the aggravating factor. No DFI, theoretically no problem correct..
How do you have a 9A1 motor that isn't DFI?


Quick Reply: 997.2 3.8 Engine Failure



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 07:30 PM.