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What did you do to your 996TT today?

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Old 11-08-2019, 01:19 PM
  #5056  
2fcknfst
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Originally Posted by TKEES
"Custom"
Custom parts with part numbers, means there are CADs and engineering to back them up, otherwise they wouldn't exist.

Grinding cams is no big deal, but the ramp up and duration are, so someone, somewhere, designed them and tested them to the point where they have been referenced.

I'm just curious as to how difficult they will be to come by, and where I may come by them...
Old 11-08-2019, 01:22 PM
  #5057  
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Originally Posted by powdrhound
We are still using stock ECU so variocam remains liming redline to 7500. In order to go to 8400 will necessitate different lifters/cams which in turn will require a Motec ECU. Project for end of next year. We will run the engine as is with the Schrick cams in the interim.
And when the interim is completed, I could be interested in taking them off your hands.

I love cams.
Old 11-08-2019, 05:33 PM
  #5058  
docwyte
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Swapped in my new MOST Bose adapter box. So far it works great, with NO alternator whine like my old one. It was also $50 less, which is nice.
Old 11-08-2019, 08:03 PM
  #5059  
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Originally Posted by TKEES
"Custom"
Found them; production pieces, quite reasonably priced too:

0475A1741-LR0
Nockenwelle Ausl. L/R hydr.
camshaft
Porsche 996T 6Zyl. 4 Vent.
684,87 €
815,00 €
0475E1761-L0
Nockenwelle Einl. links hydr.
camshaft
Porsche 996T 6Z 4V Schalttasse
684,87 €
815,00 €
0475E1761-R0
Nockenwelle Einl. rechts hydr.
camshaft
Porsche 996T 6Z 4V Schalttasse
684,87 €
815,00 €
Old 11-08-2019, 08:55 PM
  #5060  
powdrhound
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Originally Posted by 2fcknfst
Found them; production pieces, quite reasonably priced too:

0475A1741-LR0
Nockenwelle Ausl. L/R hydr.
camshaft
Porsche 996T 6Zyl. 4 Vent.
684,87 €
815,00 €
0475E1761-L0
Nockenwelle Einl. links hydr.
camshaft
Porsche 996T 6Z 4V Schalttasse
684,87 €
815,00 €
0475E1761-R0
Nockenwelle Einl. rechts hydr.
camshaft
Porsche 996T 6Z 4V Schalttasse
684,87 €
815,00 €
I have a spare set of these if you are looking for a set.
Old 11-08-2019, 09:15 PM
  #5061  
2fcknfst
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Originally Posted by powdrhound
I have a spare set of these if you are looking for a set.
I take it one of the intake sets have a slighter higher lift and duration?
Old 11-08-2019, 11:37 PM
  #5062  
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Originally Posted by 2fcknfst
I take it one of the intake sets have a slighter higher lift and duration?
I can’t remember the exact number but It’s actually a decent amount more duration if I recall. Chris measured and wrote down the numbers of the OEM cams for comparison. I would imagine low end will be impacted a bit but that does not really concern us as the engine has plenty down low and is never operated below 3500 during track use anyway.
Old 11-09-2019, 01:31 AM
  #5063  
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Originally Posted by powdrhound
I can’t remember the exact number but It’s actually a decent amount more duration if I recall. Chris measured and wrote down the numbers of the OEM cams for comparison. I would imagine low end will be impacted a bit but that does not really concern us as the engine has plenty down low and is never operated below 3500 during track use anyway.
The thing I like about cams is how they completely change the character of a given mill. I recall, some years ago, reading about the street version of the GT1 and its engine connection to the 996 series turbo. Changes, to make it more street able, included a bump in displacement, lower compression pistons and changes with the cams. I am unable to recall exactly the reference to cams outside of meeting emissions, but I have to wonder if adding a slightly higher lift, longer duration unit to the turbo would bring a more 'motorsport' feel to the 3.6. I wonder even more if the Schrick grinds are in fact based on the GT1 street version, and if they are, how very cool is that?

There didn't seem to be detailed specs on the Schrick website, but if you happen to have the numbers on them handy, I would be interested to see them. I don't think you have to worry about your bottom end very much, your torque numbers support sufficient acceleration indeed.

When I run the side dump on my Honda, the Toda Spec Cs, at idle, make it sound like a 2 stroke...
Old 11-10-2019, 11:10 PM
  #5064  
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Replaced the engine mounts today, drilled through heatshields and intercooler brackets and used ss washers bolts and wing nuts for easy removal! Also changed out all the incandecent lights into zevo leds! Theyre not blinding but they do illuminate the housing!

Seems those speed connectors rust through eventually! No more exhaust rattle or thunking!
Next week Coolant reservoir! Then fuel pump and lines! I am not looking forward to my coolant reservoir.

After the fuel pump and lines i think im set for failure items foe the next 10 years! Unless my alternator fails or my power steering goes out...
Super.
Old 11-11-2019, 09:42 AM
  #5065  
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Coolant reservoir is easy. Remove airbox, disconnect the lines and the one or two retaining nuts, reservoir slides right out.
Old 11-11-2019, 11:50 AM
  #5066  
pancing
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Originally Posted by Carlo_Carrera
Coolant reservoir is easy. Remove airbox, disconnect the lines and the one or two retaining nuts, reservoir slides right out.
Lol someone told me sunroof was super easy. Spent 3 hours trying to pull the panel out because it ripped the rubber weatherstrip and it wouldnt come forward lol. I really hope youre right lol.

I dont have to remove the metal intake splitter?
Old 11-11-2019, 01:43 PM
  #5067  
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Originally Posted by pancing
Lol someone told me sunroof was super easy. Spent 3 hours trying to pull the panel out because it ripped the rubber weatherstrip and it wouldnt come forward lol. I really hope youre right lol.

I dont have to remove the metal intake splitter?
Sunroof is not super easy. Should've asked me about that, LOL.

Coolant tank is super easy. There's no need to remove the Y-pipe or inlet pipe. If you feel you are cramped for space just lower the engine a couple of inches.

EDIT: One thing I forgot, you will have to remove the fuel filter.

Last edited by Carlo_Carrera; 11-11-2019 at 02:22 PM.
Old 11-11-2019, 02:46 PM
  #5068  
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Originally Posted by Carlo_Carrera
Sunroof is not super easy. Should've asked me about that, LOL.

Coolant tank is super easy. There's no need to remove the Y-pipe or inlet pipe. If you feel you are cramped for space just lower the engine a couple of inches.

EDIT: One thing I forgot, you will have to remove the fuel filter.
Lol when all the maintenance catches up im gonna weld sheet metal to the sunroof opening and repaint it then source some carbon fiber weave and stretch it over the headliner supports and harden it; that panel is not light lol.

I looked at some of the true carbon replacements and you can buy a car with what some of those cost.
Old 11-12-2019, 01:39 AM
  #5069  
rufrob
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Only 37,000km. After chancing front suspension noise which ended up being ball joints, I got the wheel alignment. 2 trips, 4 hours an $250 later it drives like a normal car. No more knocks, rattles, and darting over ruts.
Question: why would the rear toe and right rear camber go out? I didn't touch it.
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Old 11-12-2019, 09:58 AM
  #5070  
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Wear?


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