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Now, if you're shy by just a little bit, consider the following:
1) Cutting a window in your drywall
2) If you need more, you could reinforce the trusses after you modify them a bit. Hopefully the truss direction is parallel with the lift/car direction, since then you'd only be weakening 2-3 trusses, and depending on your yearly snowfall, depends on your area.
Thanks all for the info… time to go measure my ceiling height.
Don't forget about your garage door...unless you have barn type doors that swing out you need to check the height of the door when open. The average garage has a header at 7' that is 1'tall that equates to a ceiling height of 8'. If you do not have living space above the garage you should be able to "vault" the ceiling. Then you would need to get a wall mounted opener and modify the door tracks to follow up to and along the ceiling.
Don't forget about your garage door...unless you have barn type doors that swing out you need to check the height of the door when open. The average garage has a header at 7' that is 1'tall that equates to a ceiling height of 8'. If you do not have living space above the garage you should be able to "vault" the ceiling. Then you would need to get a wall mounted opener and modify the door tracks to follow up to and along the ceiling.
I converted my center bay door to open straight up, with a side mounted jack shaft garage door opener.
Well, determined that the MCS 1WNR rear shocks I have don't have enough droop travel. Found that out when the rear end bottomed out after going over a speed bump. Supposed to have 6cm of droop travel, I've got half that. So a call to MCS, they're going to lengthen the shock bodies and service the shocks at the same time since they're 3 years old. Out they came, and since the car will put up on the rack for ~ 1 month (2 weeks to ship back/forth, 2 weeks in shop to do the work) I put jack stands under both jack points plus put the bridge jack under the rear cross member (on it's lock) so triple supported.
MCS doesn't want anything on the shocks but the spring collars, so I went to remove the rear swaybar end links. Yep, both bolts sheared off. Awesome. Ironically I could've just removed the bolt on the collar and slipped it off the top of the shock, or removed the nut from the endlink and left the bolt in place.
Looks like I'll be using penetrant, a MAPP gas torch and double nuts to try and get the rest of that bolt out when they come back from MCS...
I just had a lift installed yesterday. I have a 16x7 garage door and modified the tracks to go straight up and then curve along the ceiling, which is 11’. The lift I bought is a 4 post that can raise to 7’2” (I think) and I have my Tesla Model S underneath my 911 on the lift. I am not lifted all the way up but have plenty of clearance underneath and maybe 2 1/2 feet still above the 911. You also have to be careful for the width - my wife was about to be supremely pissed at me if she couldn’t fit her QX80 in the garage next to the lift, and it is tight! The columns take up some space in the width and the way our garage is laid out it was barely workable. I’ll try to post some pics tomorrow - had the floors epoxied, all walls and ceiling painted, new garage door opener (has to be a side mount direct drive BTW) - I’m totally amped up about it. The garage itself is a 20x20’ 2 car garage.
I just had a lift installed yesterday. I have a 16x7 garage door and modified the tracks to go straight up and then curve along the ceiling, which is 11’. The lift I bought is a 4 post that can raise to 7’2” (I think) and I have my Tesla Model S underneath my 911 on the lift. I am not lifted all the way up but have plenty of clearance underneath and maybe 2 1/2 feet still above the 911. You also have to be careful for the width - my wife was about to be supremely pissed at me if she couldn’t fit her QX80 in the garage next to the lift, and it is tight! The columns take up some space in the width and the way our garage is laid out it was barely workable. I’ll try to post some pics tomorrow - had the floors epoxied, all walls and ceiling painted, new garage door opener (has to be a side mount direct drive BTW) - I’m totally amped up about it. The garage itself is a 20x20’ 2 car garage.
Congratulations. Nice setup.
I’ve had my 4 post lift 18 years now. Even with this history, I will still hit my head on the top platform 3 or 4 times a year. You think you’ve cleared it only to raise up and get that nasty surprise.
Installed a PCCM+ over the weekend. Works pretty awesome. While I was in there, I found a dead garage door opener wired to an extra switch installed on the center left side. I think that switch is a shade screen for a targa model.
I’ve had my 4 post lift 18 years now. Even with this history, I will still hit my head on the top platform 3 or 4 times a year. You think you’ve cleared it only to raise up and get that nasty surprise.
Maybe you’ll have better luck around your lift.
Haha - well, I have 2 noggin knockers under my belt in the first 24 hours. If I raise up to the highest lock I can walk under it no prob, so I’ll probably make that adjustment tomorrow. As long as I can avoid anything sharp….
Washed, waxed, and ready for its next run! Life can be complicated, but is there anything much more satisfying than a quiet night in the garage with a nice single malt, a game in the background, and time to pay some attention to your beloved 996?
Here are a few pics of my new setup - still doing a little bit to the ceiling, electrical connections, and lights. Shelving makes it a bit tight but we wanted to keep those old vintage board shelves for storage.