99 C2 Code P1531 Variocam Solenoid
#76
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The actuator was diagnosed by two local Porsche shops. The explanation of what's happening came from the first. No, I am not 100% sure if an internal component of the engine is bleeding down oil pressure when it sits.
#77
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Pelican has a good diy for this job. Doing the solenoid doesn't seem too bad. I just picked up a '99 throwing the same code, but this car has been diagnosed as having a bad actuator/tensioner which is a lot more work and more costly. My car has a bit of a rattle on startup and I'm told the actuator is bleeding down when the car is off, so the dme sees the cam timing off on startup very shortly until oil pressure builds back up.
#79
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So I had them do this, and here’s what they found: “the culprit is an internal short in bank 1 cam solenoid”
They want $2600 to fix it. This is after the $1500 I already spent on the other work that led up to this. How did they not find this short a long time ago?
They want $2600 to fix it. This is after the $1500 I already spent on the other work that led up to this. How did they not find this short a long time ago?
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PS:Edit: Why would anyone assume that this will not fix the problem??? The 10v residual voltage moved to the other bank after swapping the pins at the DME, and the wiring was already confirmed/tested. Unless you have absolutely no faith in their troubleshooting/testing ability, this should be case closed (except for the actual repair)..
#80
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I get what you are saying, but if it comes to things being held hostage, that’s not good for anyone, but especially not good for them. I have documented this whole process and they are being reasonable.
#81
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#82
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Glad my suggestion accurately confirmed what the culprit is. Hope you can now get it resolved for a reasonable amount of $$$ ...![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
PS:Edit: Why would anyone assume that this will not fix the problem??? The 10v residual voltage moved to the other bank after swapping the pins at the DME, and the wiring was already confirmed/tested. Unless you have absolutely no faith in their troubleshooting/testing ability, this should be case closed (except for the actual repair)..
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
PS:Edit: Why would anyone assume that this will not fix the problem??? The 10v residual voltage moved to the other bank after swapping the pins at the DME, and the wiring was already confirmed/tested. Unless you have absolutely no faith in their troubleshooting/testing ability, this should be case closed (except for the actual repair)..
#83
Captain Obvious
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They are not going to give me an answer to a question like this, other than ‘it depends on why’ the solenoid didn’t fix it. Their approach all along on this is to pay by the hour for services rendered. They are eating 8 hours already. If this doesn’t fix the issue, then they have 2 misdiagnoses, or else it’s the pads or tensioner itself. None of these results is terribly bad. I would have to pay for the tensioner or pads. They would have to eat a 2nd misdiagnosis.
I get what you are saying, but if it comes to things being held hostage, that’s not good for anyone, but especially not good for them. I have documented this whole process and they are being reasonable.
I get what you are saying, but if it comes to things being held hostage, that’s not good for anyone, but especially not good for them. I have documented this whole process and they are being reasonable.
#84
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Just letting everyone know that my car is fixed. The P1530 code, after all, was a bad solenoid on the bank 1 actuator.
The mechanic said that the tensioner pads looked good, too.
The exhaust bolts all came out fine without breaking - what I consider to be a testament to the previous 18 years of garage queen ownership. No rain, no salt, no winter, driving.
They didn’t think much about the cold start rattle and said that a lot of these cars do that.
The engine purrs like a kitten smoothly now and seems to have full power as before.
The mechanic said that the tensioner pads looked good, too.
The exhaust bolts all came out fine without breaking - what I consider to be a testament to the previous 18 years of garage queen ownership. No rain, no salt, no winter, driving.
They didn’t think much about the cold start rattle and said that a lot of these cars do that.
The engine purrs like a kitten smoothly now and seems to have full power as before.
Last edited by Mike Murphy; 07-01-2019 at 06:06 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Mike Murphy:
jasmanjr (01-26-2021),
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#86
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Just letting everyone know that my car is fixed. The P1530 code, after all, was a bad solenoid on the bank 1 actuator.
The mechanic said that the tensioner pads looked good, too.
The exhaust bolts all came out fine without breaking - what I consider to be a testament to the previous 20 years of garage queen ownership. No rain, no salt, no winter, driving.
They didn’t think much about the cold start rattle and said that a lot of these cars do that.
The engine purrs like a kitten smoothly now and seems to have full power as before.
The mechanic said that the tensioner pads looked good, too.
The exhaust bolts all came out fine without breaking - what I consider to be a testament to the previous 20 years of garage queen ownership. No rain, no salt, no winter, driving.
They didn’t think much about the cold start rattle and said that a lot of these cars do that.
The engine purrs like a kitten smoothly now and seems to have full power as before.
#87
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Then again, it’s a 911, it’s meant to be driven
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#89
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To be honest, I know some 911s need to have the tensioner pads replaced on different models over the years, but to me, this is an unacceptable design problem that no engine should have. So I’m glad to hear that mine was just fine. I didn’t ask them to look at the other side or the pads further down into the engine.
#90
Captain Obvious
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Yes, they left the tensioner pads alone. I would not have wanted to spend the money on preventative replacement anyway.
To be honest, I know some 911s need to have the tensioner pads replaced on different models over the years, but to me, this is an unacceptable design problem that no engine should have. So I’m glad to hear that mine was just fine. I didn’t ask them to look at the other side or the pads further down into the engine.
To be honest, I know some 911s need to have the tensioner pads replaced on different models over the years, but to me, this is an unacceptable design problem that no engine should have. So I’m glad to hear that mine was just fine. I didn’t ask them to look at the other side or the pads further down into the engine.