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I read your thread. You are a brave man, digging in like that on your first time with these motors. Very cool though, to pick up a project like that and tear it apart. That's the best way to learn.
Yea, my pads are obviously no where like yours were.
What does normal wear look like on chain guides? (Remember, old school American V8's don't need no stinkin chain guides! And only had ONE timing chain too. A novel idea.)
I heard the Audi V8's have one giant chain, and it's sandwiched between the engine and tranny. Book calls for 40 years of labor to replace! ouch! So much for that used S4 lol
You don't need an oil analysis to see chain guide material. You'll see bits of brown plastic (that used to be white/off white - this id cam chain guide material) in your oil sump if you drop the plate. You may also see black plastic - this is the main IMS chain guide material.
When replacing the pads, be aware that there's a "top" and "bottom". One will contain a small hole for oil. On one bank, the oil is provided from the "bottom", on the other bank, the "top". I missed this when doing my rebuild (on bank 1 I believe), but my subconscious kicked in when sleeping one night and was able to go back and fix it before performing the timing.
When replacing the pads, be aware that there's a "top" and "bottom". One will contain a small hole for oil. On one bank, the oil is provided from the "bottom", on the other bank, the "top". I missed this when doing my rebuild (on bank 1 I believe), but my subconscious kicked in when sleeping one night and was able to go back and fix it before performing the timing.
I never paid attention to this. Oh well, we'll see how it hold up. Been in the car for 12K kms so far an no wear other than staining from the oil.
...I think your other side will be fine for awhile, I wouldn’t even think about it. We’ll likely have many other costly repairs coming later that won’t have much to do with a solenoid ...
I think i just jinx'd myself.
I was driving the other day and did an aggressive slowdown/stop from highway speeds and then smelled something burning. At first, I thought it could have been brakes, but then it smelled like wiring and still smelled pretty bad, even after trying to clear the smell by rolling down the windows..
Now I have P1539 code Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2, Actuator triggered, no active position.
Potential causes: - Open circuit in triggering wire. - Open circuit in B+ supply. - Actuator faulty.
I was driving the other day and did an aggressive slowdown/stop from highway speeds and then smelled something burning. At first, I thought it could have been brakes, but then it smelled like wiring and still smelled pretty bad, even after trying to clear the smell by rolling down the windows..
Now I have P1539 code Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2, Actuator triggered, no active position.
Potential causes: - Open circuit in triggering wire. - Open circuit in B+ supply. - Actuator faulty.
I have seen that before, car was blowing the fuse for "engine electronics" in the fuse panel and would quit running, after replacing the fuse I could smell wiring burning. Turned out the vario-cam solenoid was shorting at times. I think the wire gauge for that circuit is a little too small, or the circuit protection (fuse rating) is a little too high..
I was driving the other day and did an aggressive slowdown/stop from highway speeds and then smelled something burning. At first, I thought it could have been brakes, but then it smelled like wiring and still smelled pretty bad, even after trying to clear the smell by rolling down the windows..
Now I have P1539 code Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2, Actuator triggered, no active position.
Potential causes: - Open circuit in triggering wire. - Open circuit in B+ supply. - Actuator faulty.
The smell associated with mine was due to the engine running poorly after my tensioners were sticking. This was throwing the variocam for a loop and sending a fault code. I had both tensioners redone(only one was sticking when the motor warmed up) and it has run flawlessly and the idle is soo smooth now.
The smell associated with mine was due to the engine running poorly after my tensioners were sticking. This was throwing the variocam for a loop and sending a fault code. I had both tensioners redone(only one was sticking when the motor warmed up) and it has run flawlessly and the idle is soo smooth now.
When I bought my car as a non runner and then got it running, one back had a faulty variocam code. The problem turned out to be a fried transistor/driver in the ECU. You could see the burnt up part on the circuit board but I don't know if that smelt bad or not since it happens before I got the car. If yo smelt the burning inside the car, pop open the ECU box.
When I bought my car as a non runner and then got it running, one back had a faulty variocam code. The problem turned out to be a fried transistor/driver in the ECU. You could see the burnt up part on the circuit board but I don't know if that smelt bad or not since it happens before I got the car. If yo smelt the burning inside the car, pop open the ECU box.
Yep, that’s exactly what that burning smell was. Two pics, one of each side of the opened up ECU. One looks clean, the other side has a smoking gun. So what did you do to ensure the wiring isn’t the problem? If I have the ECU repaired, will I burn it up again when reconnect everything?
Clean side Burned side
Remember, this all happened when I stepped on the brake pretty hard, so I wonder if that’s part of what may have triggered this. Perhaps water or a fluid was involved, although I don’t see any water/fluid on the DME itself.
Yep, that’s exactly what that burning smell was. Two pics, one of each side of the opened up ECU. One looks clean, the other side has a smoking gun. So what did you do to ensure the wiring isn’t the problem? If I have the ECU repaired, will I burn it up again when reconnect everything?
Clean side Burned side
Remember, this all happened when I stepped on the brake pretty hard, so I wonder if that’s part of what may have triggered this. Perhaps water or a fluid was involved, although I don’t see any water/fluid on the DME itself.
I'll get your the part number in the next day or so that I used to replace mine, Checking the wiring is easy. Just check for continuity at the pins that go to the vario cam solenoid. The way I check the solenoid was to run a 9V battery and see if it worked when the engine is running. That's all I did before finding the same thing in the DME as you. They went online to look for the transistor but no info was available for the 996 so I looked at other forums. I think I found the transistor info on a Mitsubishi forum. Bought one for $10 and installed it using regular solder tools and methods. It has been working flawlessly after the swap. You can do all this yourself and save a lot of money too.
12-10-2019, 10:24 AM
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Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2, Actuator triggered, no active position.
