Ben's plenum
#61
The intake hose is pretty straightforward if you're saying with the stock throttle body diameter. My car is running an aftermarket plenum --> stock throttle body --> this silicon hose* with a simple expansion plug from home depot to cover the airbox baffle. This setup improves sound, which is all I really care about. There's another thread where the plug & hose are referenced by another RLer.
* http://www.ebay.com/itm/271856058795?rmvSB=true
* http://www.ebay.com/itm/271856058795?rmvSB=true
#62
The intake hose is pretty straightforward if you're saying with the stock throttle body diameter. My car is running an aftermarket plenum --> stock throttle body --> this silicon hose* with a simple expansion plug from home depot to cover the airbox baffle. This setup improves sound, which is all I really care about. There's another thread where the plug & hose are referenced by another RLer.
* http://www.ebay.com/itm/271856058795?rmvSB=true
* http://www.ebay.com/itm/271856058795?rmvSB=true
I’ve seen these on eBay, but wasn’t sure as they do not specify the ID of the tube.
#63
I've had one on for a few thousand miles and while the fit could be better, it works. No need to continually refit the hose, it stays put. They come with fasteners & can improve induction sound for $50 without risking MAF fouling or getting codes like I got with the Fabspeed intake. There are some other guys around that run this setup.
#64
Captain Obvious
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Hi Imo.
I will appreciate if you could direct me to any place in this thread that made you believe I’m “offering the plenum to the public” (or any other product for that matter) and I will edit it, so other readers will not be under the same wrong impression.
The goal of this thread (once again), is to share my experiment/ experience, and hopefully get some good info about the silicon elbow I need.
Thanks in advance.
Meir.
I will appreciate if you could direct me to any place in this thread that made you believe I’m “offering the plenum to the public” (or any other product for that matter) and I will edit it, so other readers will not be under the same wrong impression.
The goal of this thread (once again), is to share my experiment/ experience, and hopefully get some good info about the silicon elbow I need.
Thanks in advance.
Meir.
#65
I've had one on for a few thousand miles and while the fit could be better, it works. No need to continually refit the hose, it stays put. They come with fasteners & can improve induction sound for $50 without risking MAF fouling or getting codes like I got with the Fabspeed intake. There are some other guys around that run this setup.
I ordered one.
Should arrive next week, so I’ll try to get together with Ben for that following weekend, and see how everything fits.
#66
maybe your comment on post 17:
"Resilient to oil and fuel means little to me. Can is hold up in the environment that it going to spend it's life in? Last think you want is to come apart and get ingested into the engine? What kind of an RD was done on this before it was released to the public?"
but let's put that aside, as i think it is already clear that the R&D process that started with Ben's car is continuing now. his plenum runs strong for over 20K miles including track and DE days in the florida heat.
i'm not sure how good of a guinea pig i will be, as i'm averaging 6K per year, but the plane is to inspect the plenum regularly on the outside, and pull it out for internal inspection 4 times a year between my 3K oil changes.
my concern is more about the gain in performance, less from the structural integrity of the part.
"Resilient to oil and fuel means little to me. Can is hold up in the environment that it going to spend it's life in? Last think you want is to come apart and get ingested into the engine? What kind of an RD was done on this before it was released to the public?"
but let's put that aside, as i think it is already clear that the R&D process that started with Ben's car is continuing now. his plenum runs strong for over 20K miles including track and DE days in the florida heat.
i'm not sure how good of a guinea pig i will be, as i'm averaging 6K per year, but the plane is to inspect the plenum regularly on the outside, and pull it out for internal inspection 4 times a year between my 3K oil changes.
my concern is more about the gain in performance, less from the structural integrity of the part.
#67
Among our Fellow Forum Members there may be some who are in the plastics business and could give us some ideas on specifically what to look for on the degradation subject. Heat is an issue but at what level? How significant is the combination of heat+oil+vibration+heat cycling in the degradation process and how long would it take before the part became too brittle/crack/soften ?
My limited experience molding glass-filled Nylon 66 and modified pvc was a non-automotive environment. At least you will not have to deal with u.v. degradation or moisture !
I realize you are printing this part but am anticipating great success (cheering from the sidelines) and the need for volume production . For those who belittle such cheering - it is so much nicer than sneering from the sidelines.
It may be that a plenum in this environment molded from unmodified pvc will have a life expectancy of only 10-20 years ? That would be O.K.
Ben would need to find a small molder who was already using a modified base for other customers -for example pvc compounded with Tin or Lead.Maybe some of this applies to the compounds used in printing also ?
Anyway, glad we are back to the tech details of out little community diy project.
My limited experience molding glass-filled Nylon 66 and modified pvc was a non-automotive environment. At least you will not have to deal with u.v. degradation or moisture !
I realize you are printing this part but am anticipating great success (cheering from the sidelines) and the need for volume production . For those who belittle such cheering - it is so much nicer than sneering from the sidelines.
It may be that a plenum in this environment molded from unmodified pvc will have a life expectancy of only 10-20 years ? That would be O.K.
Ben would need to find a small molder who was already using a modified base for other customers -for example pvc compounded with Tin or Lead.Maybe some of this applies to the compounds used in printing also ?
Anyway, glad we are back to the tech details of out little community diy project.
#68
Ben, is the model public domain, or are you keeping the 3D model under wraps?
It would be fun/challenging/interesting to print one of these out on my Makerbot to use as a mold core and try making an aluminum casting. (no, I don't have a "real" forge, but I have bricks, plenty scrap aluminum from some wheels, and heat sources...
(If anyone else is interested: you can use PLA printed parts to mimic lost-wax casting. "...this next method is our favorite as it mimics traditional jewelry wax casting, but the original 3D print is destroyed in the process. Again, take an empty 2-part mold and fill the bottom piece 1/3 full of sand, place the piece you are casting in the center and carefully pack sand around it as you go. Make sure you end up with the flat or bottom of the piece facing up. [...] Once the molded piece in in place, turn it gently upside down and place it on a drip pan in your oven at 400 degrees to allow the PLA to melt out over time. This generally takes 4-6 hours depending on the 3D print size.")
It would be fun/challenging/interesting to print one of these out on my Makerbot to use as a mold core and try making an aluminum casting. (no, I don't have a "real" forge, but I have bricks, plenty scrap aluminum from some wheels, and heat sources...
(If anyone else is interested: you can use PLA printed parts to mimic lost-wax casting. "...this next method is our favorite as it mimics traditional jewelry wax casting, but the original 3D print is destroyed in the process. Again, take an empty 2-part mold and fill the bottom piece 1/3 full of sand, place the piece you are casting in the center and carefully pack sand around it as you go. Make sure you end up with the flat or bottom of the piece facing up. [...] Once the molded piece in in place, turn it gently upside down and place it on a drip pan in your oven at 400 degrees to allow the PLA to melt out over time. This generally takes 4-6 hours depending on the 3D print size.")
#69
Captain Obvious
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 22,846
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
maybe your comment on post 17:
"Resilient to oil and fuel means little to me. Can is hold up in the environment that it going to spend it's life in? Last think you want is to come apart and get ingested into the engine? What kind of an RD was done on this before it was released to the public?"
"Resilient to oil and fuel means little to me. Can is hold up in the environment that it going to spend it's life in? Last think you want is to come apart and get ingested into the engine? What kind of an RD was done on this before it was released to the public?"
but let's put that aside, as i think it is already clear that the R&D process that started with Ben's car is continuing now. his plenum runs strong for over 20K miles including track and DE days in the florida heat.
i'm not sure how good of a guinea pig i will be, as i'm averaging 6K per year, but the plane is to inspect the plenum regularly on the outside, and pull it out for internal inspection 4 times a year between my 3K oil changes.
my concern is more about the gain in performance, less from the structural integrity of the part.
i'm not sure how good of a guinea pig i will be, as i'm averaging 6K per year, but the plane is to inspect the plenum regularly on the outside, and pull it out for internal inspection 4 times a year between my 3K oil changes.
my concern is more about the gain in performance, less from the structural integrity of the part.
#70
They are confident in their build process and sounds like they are very honest about the product testing, or lack of it.
Curious - why does this bother you so much Imo000? Let them do their thing, its not like you are going to buy the product.
Curious - why does this bother you so much Imo000? Let them do their thing, its not like you are going to buy the product.
#71
I still don't understand how this is referring to you.
As far as I can tell, blah blah blah stick in the mud, adding no value, being a grumpy canuck blah blah blah. My m96 doesn't run and hasn't for 3 years but I still act like some voice of authority to compensate for my utter failure in the IMSb realm.
As far as I can tell, blah blah blah stick in the mud, adding no value, being a grumpy canuck blah blah blah. My m96 doesn't run and hasn't for 3 years but I still act like some voice of authority to compensate for my utter failure in the IMSb realm.
#72
Imo nobody in this Thread accused you of being Canadian as an epithet. That is not how Rennlist operates.
As others have eloquently indicated your issue is one of being argumentative and interfering .
You don't like the project.O.K. already we got that.Thanks for your opinion as an Engineer and a long time Pcar guy.
Now can you please leave us alone and stop bullying your way into our conversation. We just want to develop out little diy project - without you or your attitude.
As others have eloquently indicated your issue is one of being argumentative and interfering .
You don't like the project.O.K. already we got that.Thanks for your opinion as an Engineer and a long time Pcar guy.
Now can you please leave us alone and stop bullying your way into our conversation. We just want to develop out little diy project - without you or your attitude.
#74
Hannibal was extremely effective when dealing with recalcitrance: eviscerate where needed, civility be damned.
Now, if we could get some dynos with these setups, we might answer some questions. I could probably do one this summer but being at 4200' ASL may not be of much use.
Now, if we could get some dynos with these setups, we might answer some questions. I could probably do one this summer but being at 4200' ASL may not be of much use.
#75
Captain Obvious
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Ofcourse not, Ben hasn't experimented anything on a 996 yet. Not even a prototype has been made yet. My experiemnt was for myself not for the public to conduct (I didn't release parts to the public before testing was done), so why do you care what the outcome was? Good or bad, I always freely shared my experience when it comes to trying anything on a car. This is how the DIY gearhead community works. People try things for themselves and share the experience so others can learn from it. Using others a s a test sublject is OK as long as both parties fully undersntand what happens when things go wrong. I see what you are doing but it's not there. Would also be a good idea to kee the personal inults out of this forum, this is a technical forum, keep the topic technical.