When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just the free oil, I can afford lol
Jan 2017 more realistically.
Guys, we should all stay positive! I think AWDGuy is just too tired of the engine/car after all the hard effort he has put into it.
it's all good, just having some fun.
it's great to see another build like this after mine. I get to see the differences between builders. not that there has been much difference, mostly everything I've seen here is what we did with the porsche manual by our side.
my car is running fantastic since getting the vac leaks taken care of. but there's still a long list of parts that needs to be replaced (not engine related) that I will slowly tackle while owning it or give the list to future owner if it sells.
it's great to see another build like this after mine. I get to see the differences between builders. not that there has been much difference, mostly everything I've seen here is what we did with the porsche manual by our side.
my car is running fantastic since getting the vac leaks taken care of. but there's still a long list of parts that needs to be replaced (not engine related) that I will slowly tackle while owning it or give the list to future owner if it sells.
Yes, the major steps are the same. However, the details could be different. e.g., install the bank 1 pistons into the bores first before installing the crank carrier (per the WSM) or the other way around (Jake's preferred way which is also the way I documented here). The other one is how to install the bank 2 piston clips - pistons up-side-down preferred by Jake.
There are also many tips I learned from the class. Without those you could still assemble the engine but you will be more likely to make mistakes and have to re-do things.
Original EWK tool (far left) to hold the collar nut of the vane type variocam actuator to the intake cam. The nut is only 3mm thick. The relief on the tool is way too much so it tends to slip and strip the nut.
Washer and the 1-1/2" ABS cap (very thick and sturdy) from home depot. I drilled a hole in it for the crank pulley bolt. The larger washer is from SKF (thrust bearing) with 40mm I.D. and 60mm O.D., 1mm thick. Fits the crank and seal perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VHSHQO...ing=UTF8&psc=1
This thread is amazing, learning so much and barely 5 pages in! Your garage looks so clean and sterile, almost like an operating or clean room...can you share more pics of your garage and setup
If you don't mind me asking, what line of work are you in, I'd guess engineering or some other science discipline by the meticulous and precise nature of your rebuild...very impressive!
Thanks! My garage is just a normal simple one but I do keep it clean and tidy most of the time. I have an air purifier running 24/7 ever since I started the engine reassembly. I prefer a very clean and organized environment for engine rebuild. I clean up the benches every time after I worked on the engine to make sure all the tools are accounted for and there are no extra left over parts. I'll snap some pics once I tidy it up more. It's kind of "messy" now
You guessed right! I'm a systems engineer (R&D).
Originally Posted by GTsilber
This thread is amazing, learning so much and barely 5 pages in! Your garage looks so clean and sterile, almost like an operating or clean room...can you share more pics of your garage and setup
If you don't mind me asking, what line of work are you in, I'd guess engineering or some other science discipline by the meticulous and precise nature of your rebuild...very impressive!
The stock TDC mark and hole are a joke. The notch on the pulley is about 2mm and that's 1.5 degrees already. The TDC lock hole has some variation too depending on what lock pin you use. The thinner the lock pin, the more variation you will get. I found the best (and easiest) is to put a wire with a sharp end next to the notch to mark it consistently.
The intake bolt is tightened to 22 ftlb first per Jake's torque book. Then once happy with the timing (i.e., the cam lock tool can slide in easily), tighten it 90 degrees further. Leave this at the last step as the bolt can't be re-used in case you want to adjust things
After timing, I also checked for compression on each cylinder using this tool to verify the 1-6-2-4-3-5 firing order and compression of each cylinder. This tool whistles when there's compression.
Also put each cylinder in TDC (compression) and did a leakdown test. 5 of the cylinders were 5% and one was 20%, which is normal per Len (will improve during break-in).
Completed these sanity checks just to have a peace of mind - the rings, valves, timing are all good and correct at this point.
This table helped a lot (courtesy of Domiac from Renntech).
Having just watched this engine rebuild viseo, I wonder what is delaying Duncan ? http://www.hartech.org/hartech-videos
Maybe he should have taken the Hartech class?
In Jest !
If Hartech had done it in 60 minutes instead of 6,it would have been useful
Cuda,
If Hartech get enough encouragement from Rennlist ,perhaps Baz will re-post the rebuild video at normal speed? It would certainly be a great promotional piece to drive Porsche people to their site.
Baz did graciously offer a 10 minute video-on-a-stick some time ago: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...min-video.html
Astonishing that more M96 enthusiasts do not take avantage of all the tech info on that site https://www.hartech.org/
74 pages of intense M96 tech here: https://www.hartech.org/images/downl...0(interim).pdf
12-05-2016, 10:45 PM
