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This task requires two people as the assembly is heavy and you need precision to mate the two and not damage the soft aluminum case.
4 used head bolts used as handles
Two long bolts were inserted to bolt down the assembly at the flywheel side (not shown). Two 1/2" deep sockets with rubber washer were used on the crank pulley side. Now the assembly can be rotated safely on the engine stand
I haven't seen any similar photos or discussion so I just want to share these here. As you can see from the photos, 13mm is great because it lets all the ribs of the seal engage the crank case bore. Actually 10mm is ok too. BTW, you can see the RMS has cracks on it.
13mm measured from the vertical surface of the crank to the seal face
10mm. The ribs still engage fully
The RMS has double seals (beige and black)
At 13mm, the beige seal still has 3~4mm away from the edge of the crank before it falls off.
If you look carefully, you can see 3 distinct wear tracks indicating this engine had at least 3 seals before, corresponding to 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm insertion depth. There's no wear at all on the tracks.
Same can't said about the front seal. There's a groove worn on it where the old seal was.
A deep groove. I'm going to install the new seal a bit deeper.
You can actually install the seal pretty deep without worrying it being off from the bore.
great write up, myself I would check the deck height at the 3 and 9 o'clock position, which is inline with the piston pin, otherwise the piston does rock at the 6 and 12 o'clock position. also I never use plastic to cover a open engine because static electricity will attract dust. just my thoughts
great write up, myself I would check the deck height at the 3 and 9 o'clock position, which is inline with the piston pin, otherwise the piston does rock at the 6 and 12 o'clock position. also I never use plastic to cover a open engine because static electricity will attract dust. just my thoughts
That's what I did. The 6 and 12 o'clock were referring to the piston as pictured in the photo, which is exactly inlne with the pins. Btw, I als rock the piston a bit to make sure it's level with the deck before taking measurements.
Thanks! Jake's engine rebuild class helps a lot with all the great info and silver bullets.
Originally Posted by AWDGuy
awesome update!
Originally Posted by wildbilly32
Ahsai: Great pics! Thanks for the update. The engine is a work or art. You are Da Man!
Originally Posted by JohnCA58
great write up, myself I would check the deck height at the 3 and 9 o'clock position, which is inline with the piston pin, otherwise the piston does rock at the 6 and 12 o'clock position. also I never use plastic to cover a open engine because static electricity will attract dust. just my thoughts
Sorry, should have mention what we use, large lint free shop towels, usually find 3 X 4 ft towels at the Linen company or even Huck surgical towels from company like this one, they are blemish but work.
I also used plastic to cover my engine when I wasn't working on it.
re deck measuring: what do you do if the numbers aren't good? send everything to LNE for machining? I never made those measurements as I figured if they are wrong, then I'm **** out of luck anyways.
I also used plastic to cover my engine when I wasn't working on it.
re deck measuring: what do you do if the numbers aren't good? send everything to LNE for machining? I never made those measurements as I figured if they are wrong, then I'm **** out of luck anyways.
Had you attended the hands- on engine rebuild school, you'd know what to do in this scenario if the deck is too tight...
You would have had the "first rule of engine building" beat into your head for 4 solid days.
"Assume nothing, quantify everything"
That said, if deck height is too tight, the piston must be machined, as there's no other corrective action that can be taken to the block. LN doesn't do this- only the engine builder can, and the full set of pistons must be re- balanced following the corrective action.
11-23-2016, 02:37 PM
Lowering the crank assembly into bank 1 case half
