gnat

Some you may not be actively looking for, but you will really appreciate if you get them.

The big two are a full leather interior. All the complaints of a "cheap" interior are about the non-leather cars like that 99. We've had our 01 since new and I never understood why people complained about the 996 interior. Then I sat in one that wasn't full leather and it all made sense. Just to be confusing there are multiple levels of "full leather", but basically the more leather it has the happier you will be.

The Xenon headlights are also a massive step up over he Halogens. Quite literally night and day.

If it was a private sale, sure I'd say that is a fair price. From a dealer though, who knows. Some are willing to deal, others not so much.

As far as the IMSB, certainly use it as a negotiating point if it helps, but it will have a dual row in there. Many of us wouldn't mess with that if you don't have to. Take questions about that to other threads though as we don't want this to be yet another IMSB thread

Nothing jumps out at me so I'd say it seems like a really good deal, but given the price I'd want to get a good through PPI done as I agree it feels low.

Notice the leather coloring in that one vs the 01 you posted earlier. That's why something seems off to me about the 01's interior.

gnat

Ummm... Maybe a Cayenne would be better then if you want to stay in the Porsche family.

Those back seats are for insurance purposes and cramming an actual person back there is considered cruel and unusual punishment in 36 states and a felony in the other 36.




Seriously though, adults don't go back there nicely. I have ridden in the back seat for a 30 mile trip. That was 12 years ago and I still haven't forgiven my wife or her mother. That was in the comparatively roomy Coupe too, the Cab has less space due to the roof mech.

mshays

I am leaning toward that 01 right now, so is there anything I should focus on or ask for in a PPI since I know very little about the mechanics of this car?
Also I seem to be a little confused on the whole IMS situation, namely the single row, double row, LN retrofit, etc. Which model years have the single, which have the double, and which ones do I need to worry about/think about replacing? Sorry to ask so many questions, but this is all extremely helpful. And thank you so much for your quick replies and information!

mshays

Are you a tall person? Most of my friends are short and I don't plan on going on long road trips with them in the back either.

Tonyr313

I don't think you should expect to fit anyone over age 10 or so in the back. Adults won't be happy in back seat.

gnat

Typically when asked people can provide shop recommendations for a good PPI and sometimes you'll find locals willing to do a Rennfax (they go look at it for/with you).

So are most people as there is a lot of information (good and bad) and it's hard to sift through. There are plenty of threads that cover all those questions that you should read up on, but the short answer is:

1) Dual row bearings have the lowest failure rate and give you the most warning (e.g. shedding metal) before catastrophic failure. All 99s with their original motors have the dual row. Its a gamble if any given 00 or 01 has a dual or the small single.

2) In the 00 models a single row variant of the bearing showed up which continued through the 04 MY. These bearings have the highest failure rate. The time between it shedding metal and the catastrophic failure is such that you have to be lucky to catch it in that state. 99s that had their motor replaced through the 04 MY got this version of the bearing.

3) In the middle of the 05 MY (997) they changed the bearing to a larger single row bearing. It has a failure rate that matches or betters the original dual row. 996s that had their motor replaced after the change got this version of the bearing. Other than the size, the notable feature of this bearing is that you cannot swap it without taking the motor apart.

4) You can't tell what bearing you have other than looking at it and the transmission has to come out for that.

5) Many failures are blamed on the IMSB, but it is likely that a full triage hasn't been done as the bearing is the first failed part that is seen and getting to the actual root cause of the failure makes no difference at that point.

6) There is no such thing as "caught it just in time". If you go to replace the bearing and find it is shedding metal, that means it has already failed. No amount of flushing the motor is going to help. The motor needs to be torn down and cleaned.

Back then I was 5' 10" and 130-ish lbs.

devioustrap

Anybody know this car? $14k...

Arch1t3ct

"IF YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SERVICE HISTORY MOVE ON TO NEXT PORSCHE."

Price is very tempting for a 996.2 with under 100k miles. A PPI would be interesting.

gnat

Something doesn't look right about those seats. I like the combo, but that's not factory. I suspect that the seats are recovered rather than being factory leather from another car. Pics aren't good enough quality to be able to tell for sure though.

devioustrap

I emailed asking if he'd be willing to take it in for one:

I guess I appreciate the honesty/frankness of the reply.

mshays

Thank you so much for all your help! This is a lot of new information so I will process it and reevaluate why I might want a 4-seater. Thanks again!

docmirror

If I may just mildly disagree with this one point. A person with a full flow(no bypass) filter, and a magnetic drain plug plus a chip detector may, and I stress 'may'' be able to save it. The oil will need to be changed often, and the filter will need to be carefully inspected each time, along with the magnet but it's possible that the smallest of debris from the failure of the bearing will not completely trash the motor, and the oil circuit could indeed be flushed enough to survive. Yes, there are a lot of caveats involved, and it's a discussion for a separate thread, but this is my very humble opinion.

alpine003

I'd have a hard time buying a car from FL since it has one of the most relaxed rules when it comes to title washing and retitleing, especially with all these natural disasters going on these days. You just never know.

And the fact that this car is being sold at a dealer under the going price makes it VERY suspicious IMO. Also note that the dealer with over 300 transactions with less than 98% feedback rating should also be looked into. The best dealers always have a 100% feedback from my experience.

gnat

Nope. Once metal has been shed there is no way to be sure you have gotten it all out. The items you suggest will keep it from recirculating, but it's already there and gone through the system. There are place in the motor where the metal will get trapped and hang out like a blood clot waiting to come loose at an unexpected time.

You might get lucky and none gets stuck, but you might also get struck by lightening 3 times in the same week. You just can't know without taking it apart and cleaning every nook and cranny.

If it happens to you, it's your motor and you can go the route you choose, but if you do what you suggest make sure you are clear about it when you sell the car on.

ZuffenZeus

Makes you wonder why he's discounted it from the original $19,995 to $13,900. If it's such a great car, then someone would have bought it for $20K, but apparently someone noticed a problem. Plus, I see it's returned to auction three times this summer. Hmmmm??? (scratches head)

Wonder if anyone has a CarFax, that would be interesting.

I don't like what they'd did to the originality of the car, especially the fire red seat which is non-OEM, but people like to dress'm up and this is perfect example of someone going to far. To each his own I presume.