UAOS install/tips/tricks
#766
Rennlist Member
Hi Patrick, I got you order and have the high mileage/Extreme Track Duty Auto-Drain kit and coolant by-pass kit in hand, I just need to box them up and ship them. I mite get them shipped out today or Monday for sure..
Tell Noah hi for me and I am anxious for him to start making aluminum chips...lol
Tell Noah hi for me and I am anxious for him to start making aluminum chips...lol
#767
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It don't think it's the heat, those drain plugs are OEM for Mercruiser Marine engines to drain the block and exhaust manifolds...that's right the "exhaust manifolds"....they are used on the exhaust manifolds although the Marine exhaust manifolds are water-cooled they still get plenty hot..
They should be tightened to finger tight+ 1/4 turn only...I think they break due to over tightening.......or righty-tighty..lefty-loosey getting reversed since it is upside down...lol..I have never broken one...
Anyway the Track Drain kit has a Grade 8 Steel 1/2" Button-head Banjo Bolt for the drain connection......
They should be tightened to finger tight+ 1/4 turn only...I think they break due to over tightening.......or righty-tighty..lefty-loosey getting reversed since it is upside down...lol..I have never broken one...
Anyway the Track Drain kit has a Grade 8 Steel 1/2" Button-head Banjo Bolt for the drain connection......
I am excited to see how they come out. I'm on my third accumulator drain plug, so I figured I should just order the drain kit. I wonder if heat in the engine bay breaks the plastic down, and they just fall apart. It will be easier to just get the auto-drain kit and ditch the plugs. I have extras, but when they break, they are a pain to take out. I have no idea if I had the coolant bypass, so for 25 bucks, might as well just get it. If I don't need it, I will just put in the parts bin for the next person that needs it here.
Last edited by Porschetech3; 11-04-2023 at 12:45 PM.
#768
Rennlist Member
It don't think it's the heat, those drain plugs are OEM for Mercruiser Marine engines to drain the block and exhaust manifolds...that's right the "exhaust manifolds"....they are used on the exhaust manifolds although the Marine exhaust manifolds are water-cooled they still get plenty hot..
They should be tightened to finger tight+ 1/4 turn only...I think they break due to over tightening.......or righty-tighty..lefty-loosey getting reversed since it is upside down...lol..I have never broken one...
Anyway the Track Drain kit has a Grade 8 Steel 1/2" Button-head Banjo Bolt for the drain connection......
They should be tightened to finger tight+ 1/4 turn only...I think they break due to over tightening.......or righty-tighty..lefty-loosey getting reversed since it is upside down...lol..I have never broken one...
Anyway the Track Drain kit has a Grade 8 Steel 1/2" Button-head Banjo Bolt for the drain connection......
#769
Drifting
When it rains it pours….
I’m diagnosing whether or not I have an intermittent TPS and now the coolant slow flash has returned after seven months of use (about 4500 miles) on the UAOS. What’s weird is that it came on today after the engine was running for about 8-10 minutes so it could very well be the engine compartment sensor acting up.
I previously fixed the issue by applying ceramic coating on the sensor eye and turning the sensor 90°. Is the next step to slightly overfill the coolant?
I’m diagnosing whether or not I have an intermittent TPS and now the coolant slow flash has returned after seven months of use (about 4500 miles) on the UAOS. What’s weird is that it came on today after the engine was running for about 8-10 minutes so it could very well be the engine compartment sensor acting up.
I previously fixed the issue by applying ceramic coating on the sensor eye and turning the sensor 90°. Is the next step to slightly overfill the coolant?
#770
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I also recently had the low coolant warning.
When I decided to take a look, the coolant looked fine.
Then I found the wiring had dropped down and was rubbing on the alternator pulley.
A quick wiring repair and a wire tie to keep the wiring away from the pulley, and everything looks fine now.
I did upgrade to Skip's newer shorter banjo bolt to help prevent an oil leak from the longer bolt.
So far it's looking better too.
When I decided to take a look, the coolant looked fine.
Then I found the wiring had dropped down and was rubbing on the alternator pulley.
A quick wiring repair and a wire tie to keep the wiring away from the pulley, and everything looks fine now.
I did upgrade to Skip's newer shorter banjo bolt to help prevent an oil leak from the longer bolt.
So far it's looking better too.
#771
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yea, I have made SST Sensing in the UK to make a Sensor specifically designed for us !! The lab grade " off-the-shelf" Sensor they suggested to me was just too sensitive to water vapors...they say most of thierr customers want the most sensitive lab grade sensor they can get, but I found that on some cars in some climates that they are just too sensitive...Coating the tip with ceramic wax and turning 90* fixes most situations...But if you have done these and confirmed that the sensor is too sensitive, I can swap it out for the"new less sensitive" sensor/harness..
Remember there are three things that can cause the"slow blink"...1) low coolant switch ..2) under engine lid temperature ...3) UAOS Sensor
@TexSquirrel Yes I had to start making my own Banjo Bolts by cross-drilling some button head bolts...I was previously just buying them from S&S, they were the only ones making anything even close, although a little long,but they kept running out of them and the cost kept going up, so I started making them myself, they are much better and no problems with supply...lol
Remember there are three things that can cause the"slow blink"...1) low coolant switch ..2) under engine lid temperature ...3) UAOS Sensor
@TexSquirrel Yes I had to start making my own Banjo Bolts by cross-drilling some button head bolts...I was previously just buying them from S&S, they were the only ones making anything even close, although a little long,but they kept running out of them and the cost kept going up, so I started making them myself, they are much better and no problems with supply...lol
#772
Rennlist Member
Yea, I have made SST Sensing in the UK to make a Sensor specifically designed for us !! The lab grade " off-the-shelf" Sensor they suggested to me was just too sensitive to water vapors...they say most of thierr customers want the most sensitive lab grade sensor they can get, but I found that on some cars in some climates that they are just too sensitive...Coating the tip with ceramic wax and turning 90* fixes most situations...But if you have done these and confirmed that the sensor is too sensitive, I can swap it out for the"new less sensitive" sensor/harness..
Remember there are three things that can cause the"slow blink"...1) low coolant switch ..2) under engine lid temperature ...3) UAOS Sensor
@TexSquirrel Yes I had to start making my own Banjo Bolts by cross-drilling some button head bolts...I was previously just buying them from S&S, they were the only ones making anything even close, although a little long,but they kept running out of them and the cost kept going up, so I started making them myself, they are much better and no problems with supply...lol
Remember there are three things that can cause the"slow blink"...1) low coolant switch ..2) under engine lid temperature ...3) UAOS Sensor
@TexSquirrel Yes I had to start making my own Banjo Bolts by cross-drilling some button head bolts...I was previously just buying them from S&S, they were the only ones making anything even close, although a little long,but they kept running out of them and the cost kept going up, so I started making them myself, they are much better and no problems with supply...lol
Mind sending me one of those "less sensitive" versions? I've just left mine unplugged after messing with it repeatedly.
Also, I am about to install the drain/oil fill tube I bought from you. How much more oil will I be able to run with this setup? Should I get a different dipstick? Thank you.
The sumps look great btw.
#773
I have to clean the sensor and coat it with ceramic wax about every two months. I'm looking for an easy way to connect and disconnect the wires. The gauge is so small that it's difficult to find something that works.
#774
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I posted a "TSB" with this picture/diagram about a year ago that shows how the Optical Micro-processor Controlled Infra-red Sensor is designed and functions, and that turning it 90* in either direction will make it "less sensitive" to water droplets/condensation...( which was supposedly not effected by water droplets/condensation or bubbles, but it was) .. and if turning it 90* doesn't fix the problem, I am happy to send the " new updated Sensor/Harness" , it has a "Two Year Unlimited Mileage Warranty" on it...The "AOS" itself has a "Lifetime Warranty" on it and will never need replacing..
If you notice in the picture that the Infra-red light beams contact and bounce off the tip at positions 180* from each other and if the threads happen to be so that these light beams end up at 12 O'Clock and 6 O'Clock, it will be more sensitive to water drop-lets....If you turn the Sensor 90* in either direction, the Infra-red light beams will hit/bounce off the tip at 3 O'Clock and 9 O'Clock, this is the least sensitive position for the Sensor Index, because the water drop-lets will tend to hang on the lowest spot on the tip...
The Infra-red light will be dispersed in the water/liquid and less light will be sent to the receiver , so the Micro-processor will detect this change and change the state of the Sensor...
The "TSB" thread is here, and has much more on trouble shooting the "slow flash warning" ...https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...low-flash.html
The NEW Sensor is " totally insensitive to water vapors" and must be submerged in liquid to disperse the Infra-red light and change states...
With the UAOS Track Version you can run 1 qt overfull mark....Note : If you have tested your blow-by using my designed blow-by test proceure and have less than 15 LPM @ idle and less then 80 LPM @ WOT, you can run even more..........up to 1 more qt depending on the LPM value...
And No, it does not cause a loss of horsepower (due to the Integrated Dry Sump system), and no windage problems or gasket problems ... ...( unless your engine has blow-by problems or stock AOS )
One more note: always use a 50 weight Track Oil for Track Events...
Yes the wire gauge is small but extremely tough for it's size. I wrapped the Sensor wires around a cast iron 4" vise that weight about 35 pounds, and holding onto the Sensor only, lifted the cast iron vise off the ground...lol... The wire gauge is 22 ga
If you notice in the picture that the Infra-red light beams contact and bounce off the tip at positions 180* from each other and if the threads happen to be so that these light beams end up at 12 O'Clock and 6 O'Clock, it will be more sensitive to water drop-lets....If you turn the Sensor 90* in either direction, the Infra-red light beams will hit/bounce off the tip at 3 O'Clock and 9 O'Clock, this is the least sensitive position for the Sensor Index, because the water drop-lets will tend to hang on the lowest spot on the tip...
The Infra-red light will be dispersed in the water/liquid and less light will be sent to the receiver , so the Micro-processor will detect this change and change the state of the Sensor...
The "TSB" thread is here, and has much more on trouble shooting the "slow flash warning" ...https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...low-flash.html
The NEW Sensor is " totally insensitive to water vapors" and must be submerged in liquid to disperse the Infra-red light and change states...
Mind sending me one of those "less sensitive" versions? I've just left mine unplugged after messing with it repeatedly.
Also, I am about to install the drain/oil fill tube I bought from you. How much more oil will I be able to run with this setup? Should I get a different dipstick? Thank you.
The sumps look great btw.
Also, I am about to install the drain/oil fill tube I bought from you. How much more oil will I be able to run with this setup? Should I get a different dipstick? Thank you.
The sumps look great btw.
With the UAOS Track Version you can run 1 qt overfull mark....Note : If you have tested your blow-by using my designed blow-by test proceure and have less than 15 LPM @ idle and less then 80 LPM @ WOT, you can run even more..........up to 1 more qt depending on the LPM value...
And No, it does not cause a loss of horsepower (due to the Integrated Dry Sump system), and no windage problems or gasket problems ... ...( unless your engine has blow-by problems or stock AOS )
One more note: always use a 50 weight Track Oil for Track Events...
Yes the wire gauge is small but extremely tough for it's size. I wrapped the Sensor wires around a cast iron 4" vise that weight about 35 pounds, and holding onto the Sensor only, lifted the cast iron vise off the ground...lol... The wire gauge is 22 ga
Last edited by Porschetech3; 02-29-2024 at 01:32 AM.
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wdb (02-29-2024)
#775
Rennlist Member
I posted a "TSB" with this picture/diagram about a year ago that shows how the Optical Micro-processor Controlled Infra-red Sensor is designed and functions, and that turning it 90* in either direction will make it "less sensitive" to water droplets/condensation...( which was supposedly not effected by water droplets/condensation or bubbles, but it was) .. and if turning it 90* doesn't fix the problem, I am happy to send the " new updated Sensor/Harness" , it has a "Two Year Unlimited Mileage Warranty" on it...The "AOS" itself has a "Lifetime Warranty" on it and will never need replacing..
With the UAOS Track Version you can run 1 qt overfull mark....Note : If you have tested your blow-by using my designed blow-by test proceure and have less than 15 LPM @ idle and less then 80 LPM @ WOT, you can run even more..........up to 1 more qt depending on the LPM value...
And No, it does not cause a loss of horsepower (due to the Integrated Dry Sump system), and no windage problems or gasket problems ... ...( unless your engine has blow-by problems or stock AOS )
One more note: always use a 50 weight Track Oil for Track Events...
With the UAOS Track Version you can run 1 qt overfull mark....Note : If you have tested your blow-by using my designed blow-by test proceure and have less than 15 LPM @ idle and less then 80 LPM @ WOT, you can run even more..........up to 1 more qt depending on the LPM value...
And No, it does not cause a loss of horsepower (due to the Integrated Dry Sump system), and no windage problems or gasket problems ... ...( unless your engine has blow-by problems or stock AOS )
One more note: always use a 50 weight Track Oil for Track Events...
I currently have your UAOS and LN .5 quart sump. So I’d be able to add 1.5 quart over stock capacity?
For some reason I thought there was a different dipstick available that I could get for the added capacity.
#776
Drifting
I’ve tried rotating the sensor and the slow blink still happens. I’d prefer to try the new sensor if able. Just let me know how much money you need. PM or text me. Thanks.
I currently have your UAOS and LN .5 quart sump. So I’d be able to add 1.5 quart over stock capacity?
For some reason I thought there was a different dipstick available that I could get for the added capacity.
I currently have your UAOS and LN .5 quart sump. So I’d be able to add 1.5 quart over stock capacity?
For some reason I thought there was a different dipstick available that I could get for the added capacity.
The following 2 users liked this post by islaTurbine:
diddy2003 (03-01-2024),
Porschetech3 (02-29-2024)
#777
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If you have a 996.1 the factory fill is 9.3 qts
If you have a 996.2 engine before eng.# M...662 1175 the factory fill is 9.3 qts
If you have a 996.2 engine after eng # M...662 1176 the factory fill is 8.7 qts
The factory "lower the oil fill" by .5 qts due to inadequacies of the stock AOS....
You can use the 996.1 dipstick ( 9.3 qts ) in the 996.2 engine if you have the UAOS..( doesn't have to be the Track Version)
9.3 qt dipstick
8.7 qt dipstick
Yes, with UAOS Track Version AND .5 qt Deep Sump, you can run 1.5 qt higher capacity / 1.0 qt above full mark ....
Yes, the "new updated Sensor/Harness" is totally immune to water vapor/condensation !! 100% Guaranteed !!
If you have a 996.2 engine before eng.# M...662 1175 the factory fill is 9.3 qts
If you have a 996.2 engine after eng # M...662 1176 the factory fill is 8.7 qts
The factory "lower the oil fill" by .5 qts due to inadequacies of the stock AOS....
You can use the 996.1 dipstick ( 9.3 qts ) in the 996.2 engine if you have the UAOS..( doesn't have to be the Track Version)
9.3 qt dipstick
8.7 qt dipstick
Yes, with UAOS Track Version AND .5 qt Deep Sump, you can run 1.5 qt higher capacity / 1.0 qt above full mark ....
I’ve tried rotating the sensor and the slow blink still happens. I’d prefer to try the new sensor if able. Just let me know how much money you need. PM or text me. Thanks.
I currently have your UAOS and LN .5 quart sump. So I’d be able to add 1.5 quart over stock capacity?
For some reason I thought there was a different dipstick available that I could get for the added capacity.
I currently have your UAOS and LN .5 quart sump. So I’d be able to add 1.5 quart over stock capacity?
For some reason I thought there was a different dipstick available that I could get for the added capacity.
Last edited by Porschetech3; 02-29-2024 at 06:47 PM.
The following users liked this post:
diddy2003 (03-01-2024)
#778
Rennlist Member
If you have a 996.1 the factory fill is 9.3 qts
If you have a 996.2 engine before eng.# M...662 1175 the factory fill is 9.3 qts
If you have a 996.2 engine after eng # M...662 1176 the factory fill is 8.7 qts
The factory "lower the oil fill" by .5 qts due to inadequacies of the stock AOS....
You can use the 996.1 dipstick ( 9.3 qts ) in the 996.2 engine if you have the UAOS..( doesn't have to be the Track Version)
9.3 qt dipstick
8.7 qt dipstick
Yes, with UAOS Track Version AND .5 qt Deep Sump, you can run 1.5 qt higher capacity / 1.0 qt above full mark ....
Yes, the "new updated Sensor/Harness" is totally immune to water vapor/condensation !! 100% Guaranteed !!
If you have a 996.2 engine before eng.# M...662 1175 the factory fill is 9.3 qts
If you have a 996.2 engine after eng # M...662 1176 the factory fill is 8.7 qts
The factory "lower the oil fill" by .5 qts due to inadequacies of the stock AOS....
You can use the 996.1 dipstick ( 9.3 qts ) in the 996.2 engine if you have the UAOS..( doesn't have to be the Track Version)
9.3 qt dipstick
8.7 qt dipstick
Yes, with UAOS Track Version AND .5 qt Deep Sump, you can run 1.5 qt higher capacity / 1.0 qt above full mark ....
Yes, the "new updated Sensor/Harness" is totally immune to water vapor/condensation !! 100% Guaranteed !!
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Porschetech3 (03-01-2024)
#779
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Beautiful car !! Is the Polar Silver or Artic Silver...? Looks like Polar Silver in that light...
#780
Rennlist Member
Winter Projects Completed followed by Road Trip - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
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Porschetech3 (03-01-2024)