The "Ultimate AOS Solution"
#436
Thanks, guys. I can't even see the AOS from below the car (it's a Tip) so i guess its the open end wrench technique. I have both plenums out so I'll wrestle with it this afternoon. These are bolts, not Torx's so i can get a wrench on it, thank goodness. Better first stock up on 10 mm wrenches, sounds like I'll be leaving a few in there, as well a a pound of flesh . I have a stubby 1/4 ratchet but it won't fit on this back bolt anyway with the stupid AOS sitting on top of the bolt.
I always felt that before a car design is approved, the designers need to do all the basic repairs with hand tools in their garages without a lift, when it is either <50 degrees or 100+ degrees in the garage. Only then can the design go to production. This is one of those examples.
I always felt that before a car design is approved, the designers need to do all the basic repairs with hand tools in their garages without a lift, when it is either <50 degrees or 100+ degrees in the garage. Only then can the design go to production. This is one of those examples.
#437
Thanks, guys. I can't even see the AOS from below the car (it's a Tip) so i guess its the open end wrench technique. I have both plenums out so I'll wrestle with it this afternoon. These are bolts, not Torx's so i can get a wrench on it, thank goodness. Better first stock up on 10 mm wrenches, sounds like I'll be leaving a few in there, as well a a pound of flesh . I have a stubby 1/4 ratchet but it won't fit on this back bolt anyway with the stupid AOS sitting on top of the bolt.
I always felt that before a car design is approved, the designers need to do all the basic repairs with hand tools in their garages without a lift, when it is either <50 degrees or 100+ degrees in the garage. Only then can the design go to production. This is one of those examples.
I always felt that before a car design is approved, the designers need to do all the basic repairs with hand tools in their garages without a lift, when it is either <50 degrees or 100+ degrees in the garage. Only then can the design go to production. This is one of those examples.
I have so many small special tools that sometimes the biggest problem is deciding which one to use when several will work..
#439
So i pulled the intake on the drivers side and removed the bad aos. I also found a few other things that need to be done while in in there like vacuum lines. What are u guys just using to replace the rigid tubes? Im guessing just parts store replacement pieces? I also bought hose 4 on the aos diagram above, do u have to pull the passenger side intake to get to the other side connection? Not a big deal as i should probably pull it anyways and vac off the top of the motor. There was a lot of debris on the drivers side.
also do u guys think the po was real lucky and caught a fuel line leak before the car went up like a match box?
Back of intake
also do u guys think the po was real lucky and caught a fuel line leak before the car went up like a match box?
Back of intake
#440
Thanks, guys. I can't even see the AOS from below the car (it's a Tip) so i guess its the open end wrench technique. I have both plenums out so I'll wrestle with it this afternoon. These are bolts, not Torx's so i can get a wrench on it, thank goodness. Better first stock up on 10 mm wrenches, sounds like I'll be leaving a few in there, as well a a pound of flesh . I have a stubby 1/4 ratchet but it won't fit on this back bolt anyway with the stupid AOS sitting on top of the bolt.
I always felt that before a car design is approved, the designers need to do all the basic repairs with hand tools in their garages without a lift, when it is either <50 degrees or 100+ degrees in the garage. Only then can the design go to production. This is one of those examples.
I always felt that before a car design is approved, the designers need to do all the basic repairs with hand tools in their garages without a lift, when it is either <50 degrees or 100+ degrees in the garage. Only then can the design go to production. This is one of those examples.
Can you get the 2 AOS bolts loose first? If you can get the AOS lifted a bit that might make it easier to get a short stubby socket on the "bitch bolt".
#441
So i pulled the intake on the drivers side and removed the bad aos. I also found a few other things that need to be done while in in there like vacuum lines. What are u guys just using to replace the rigid tubes? Im guessing just parts store replacement pieces? I also bought hose 4 on the aos diagram above, do u have to pull the passenger side intake to get to the other side connection? Not a big deal as i should probably pull it anyways and vac off the top of the motor. There was a lot of debris on the drivers side.
also do u guys think the po was real lucky and caught a fuel line leak before the car went up like a match box?
Back of intake
also do u guys think the po was real lucky and caught a fuel line leak before the car went up like a match box?
Back of intake
#442
So i pulled the intake on the drivers side and removed the bad aos. I also found a few other things that need to be done while in in there like vacuum lines. What are u guys just using to replace the rigid tubes? Im guessing just parts store replacement pieces? I also bought hose 4 on the aos diagram above, do u have to pull the passenger side intake to get to the other side connection? Not a big deal as i should probably pull it anyways and vac off the top of the motor. There was a lot of debris on the drivers side.
also do u guys think the po was real lucky and caught a fuel line leak before the car went up like a match box?
Back of intake
also do u guys think the po was real lucky and caught a fuel line leak before the car went up like a match box?
Back of intake
That plastic manifold will not melt like that unless the ambient temp gets to 350F (180C for non-US people lol). The only way it can get to that temp is for there to be FIRE !!
Luck was on his side that the fire snuffed its self out before it got really going..( I don't see any sign of fire-extinguisher residue)
#443
I've lowered the engine. I'll try to get back around to the AOS and loosen the bolts and see. i need longer, more bendable arms and fingers..... I am certainly using all of my vocabulary on this project :-)
#444
Agreed....this one will test every ounce of your patience and then some. If you get frustrated, walk away and have a beer. Let it sit and then come back to it. I did it and will never forget the almost impossible situations you will encounter. It's doable but difficult. Hang in there.
#446
Agreed....this one will test every ounce of your patience and then some. If you get frustrated, walk away and have a beer. Let it sit and then come back to it. I did it and will never forget the almost impossible situations you will encounter. It's doable but difficult. Hang in there.
so happy i have 3.4 and didnt have to deal with this bolt or maybe i was lucky and it wasnt that bad. I had already unbolted the aos and pushed it over. I was able to get a 1/4", 10mm deep socket with a 3" extension on it from above and break it free. Im sure torquing for install will be more difficult. Ill probably drop the engine some.
Neither my intake or plenum tube were burt through so no need to replace or repair, but they are most deffinately melted. Im guessing a mechanic messed something up and was able the extingish it quickly. Maybe it was residual fuel? I dont think any of the previous owners worked on this car themselves based on the limited history i have. Sadly still waiting on parts so no progress on my uaos install.
Last edited by De Jeeper; 04-07-2020 at 07:20 PM.
#448
Visable leak.
blue towel is where the fitting goes into the head
#450