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Warning!
Make sure the clamp tool is seated squarely on the spring clamp before you squeeze. Mine slipped to the side, wedged in the tool and locked up, it took me a real (hours) long time to get it free...Buy a good quality tool and not the cheap ones that break mid-stream.
I've had this happen its a PITA! I need a better quality one as my $19 eBay job is almost EOL...
@Porschetech3
So I've decided that I now have time (unfortuantely) to install the UAOS.
What else should I replace while I'm in there?
I'm guessing #4, 10, 12, and 13
Any other o-rings or clamps need replacing too? (I have a Craftsman hose clamp tool with the long cable)
What was the part number for the fancy hose clamp with clip? (also how many do I need?)
I'm creating an order so I'll have everything ready when I start.
I'll be replacing the plastic T(18?) while I'm at it. (I already have that part)
Will I need much coolant? (I have a gallon at least)
Will I lose much oil? (I have 8quarts of DT40)
Anything else I should consider before starting...intake manifold gaskets, etc?
@Porschetech3
So I've decided that I now have time (unfortuantely) to install the UAOS.
What else should I replace while I'm in there?
I'm guessing #4, 10, 12, and 13
Any other o-rings or clamps need replacing too? (I have a Craftsman hose clamp tool with the long cable)
What was the part number for the fancy hose clamp with clip? (also how many do I need?)
I'm creating an order so I'll have everything ready when I start.
I'll be replacing the plastic T(18?) while I'm at it. (I already have that part)
Will I need much coolant? (I have a gallon at least)
Will I lose much oil? (I have 8quarts of DT40)
Anything else I should consider before starting...intake manifold gaskets, etc?
Hi Bruce, since yours is a 996.2 you won't need #10 or the clamps with the fancy hold tool, they are for 996.1 only. Part #4 is a good idea and 12 13 and intake gaskets/o-rings also.
Hi Bruce, since yours is a 996.2 you won't need #10 or the clamps with the fancy hold tool, they are for 996.1 only. Part #4 is a good idea and 12 13 and intake gaskets/o-rings also.
So how does one get to this stupid bolt with the engine in the car? I cant even get an open end wrench back there. It seems like the AOS is sitting right above it and there's about a finger width gap above it. This is my engine on the stand during the rebuilt, it doesn't look that clean or accessable now
So how does one get to this stupid bolt with the engine in the car? I cant even get an open end wrench back there. It seems like the AOS is sitting right above it and there's about a finger width gap above it. This is my engine on the stand during the rebuilt, it doesn't look that clean or accessable now
To get to that bolt, unbolt the AOS first and pull it away from the block. At that point you will be able to access the last manifold bolt.
So i thought my old aos was good but im glad i tested it again. Its now pulling 13 in at idle and 18 at 1200 rpm. Not good so i guess im getting a new one. Do u want my old one for research? Also gonna order a bunch of small parts from the diagram above.
So how does one get to this stupid bolt with the engine in the car? I cant even get an open end wrench back there. It seems like the AOS is sitting right above it and there's about a finger width gap above it. This is my engine on the stand during the rebuilt, it doesn't look that clean or accessable now
Good to see you started the install..If you need help just ask..
Originally Posted by Kris Murphy
To get to that bolt, unbolt the AOS first and pull it away from the block. At that point you will be able to access the last manifold bolt.
Thanks for helping out Kris , this is a tough job for someone who has never done it or doesn't do it for a living..but I know you are a Pro at it...
Originally Posted by De Jeeper
So i thought my old aos was good but im glad i tested it again. Its now pulling 13 in at idle and 18 at 1200 rpm. Not good so i guess im getting a new one. Do u want my old one for research? Also gonna order a bunch of small parts from the diagram above.
I don't need that one, that is the usual MOF. I only wanted Bills because he said it was showing -2inh2o then would go to Positive +30inh2o slowly like it had a blockage. I have never seen one do that.
Originally Posted by cwbrown
I was able to get a smaller open end wrench with the AOS still in place tightning with small amount of movement.
Using an open end wrench and turning 1/6 turn at a time is torture !!!
So how does one get to this stupid bolt with the engine in the car? I cant even get an open end wrench back there. It seems like the AOS is sitting right above it and there's about a finger width gap above it. This is my engine on the stand during the rebuilt, it doesn't look that clean or accessable now
I dropped 3 10mm sockets trying to access from the left side. Couldn’t do it. Finally was able to get a wrench in there from the right side - once both plenums were removed.
I dropped 3 10mm sockets trying to access from the left side. Couldn’t do it. Finally was able to get a wrench in there from the right side - once both plenums were removed.
Like the old saying goes, "there's more than one way to skin a cat"..
I dropped 3 10mm sockets trying to access from the left side. Couldn’t do it. Finally was able to get a wrench in there from the right side - once both plenums were removed.
Be glad your manifolds are secured with 10mm bolts so you can use a wrench. Those of us with remanufactured engines have the damn internal torx to deal with so you have to figure out how to get a socket on.
Besides that being the hardest bolt on the manifold to remove, my difficulty was working with my left arm exclusively down the length of the manifold to remove painfully one small turn at a time working to remove that bolt. I ended up wrapping my entire left arm with an ace bandage because I had already wounded my left arm pretty bad. As I said in another thread on AOS removal/replacement, if there is a next time either the entire engine is coming out or I will gladly pay whatever amount of money it takes to have someone else do this PITA job.
Be glad your manifolds are secured with 10mm bolts so you can use a wrench. Those of us with remanufactured engines have the damn internal torx to deal with so you have to figure out how to get a socket on.
Not sure why, but when I did my motor swap I replaced the Torx bolts with 10mm and glad I did. I bought a micro 1/4 drive ratchet after my first replacement and totally forgot about it when I did the second 6mos later. Still not sure it would have worked though...
04-04-2020, 02:37 AM
I cant even get an open end wrench back there. It seems like the AOS is sitting right above it and there's about a finger width gap above it. This is my engine on the stand during the rebuilt, it doesn't look that clean or accessable now 
