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A Plug-and-Play, DIY-Installable 993 Immobilizer Defeat

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Old 04-21-2020, 09:35 PM
  #466  
Jay777
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
Jay, if, in fact, the IMMO BLOCK acts as a "key in the ignition switch", is there an additional draw on the car's battery due to other systems staying "alive"? If so, is it significant?
Good point Stan....and you're suspicion is correct - leaving the key in the ignition DOES in fact increase battery standby current (and a good reason NOT to do that). IMMO BLOCK doesn't work that way. You'll measure the same standby current on your car after installing IMMO BLOCK as you did before. On my car: 25 mA before, 25mA after.
Old 04-21-2020, 10:14 PM
  #467  
NC TRACKRAT
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Thanks,Jay. Good to know. Reason I ask is that some time ago, I accidentally left the key in the ignition of the C2S and, even with a Battery Tender on it, the battery discharged to the point I had to put it on a conventional charger to bring it back to life.
Old 04-22-2020, 12:05 AM
  #468  
Lorenfb
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
Thanks,Jay. Good to know. Reason I ask is that some time ago, I accidentally left the key in the ignition of the C2S and, even with a Battery Tender on it, the battery discharged to the point I had to put it on a conventional charger to bring it back to life.
Let us know what you measure. A review of the wiring diagram will indicate that an external battery, i.e. supplied via the gong relay pins, can supply the #30 power to both the immobilizer (pin 7)
and a tiptronic speedo as did the key-in-ignition switch (when the key remained in the ignition switch). So the immobilizer can potentially still draw power directly from the 12V battery via
its #30 input at pin 8 and also a tiptronic speedo.
Old 04-22-2020, 09:59 AM
  #469  
NC TRACKRAT
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Mine's a 6-Speed, not a TIP and the key was inadvertently left in the ignition switch months ago, well before installation of the IMMO BLOCK. Based on Jay's response, it's obvious to me that his circuitry takes care of my concern. He has assured us that there will be no additional drain. Case closed.
Old 04-22-2020, 11:24 AM
  #470  
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I need to install this, thanks for a seamless transaction Jay. I may try the Frunk install method as i was able to jam my hand in there once for the LED relay swap,
Old 04-22-2020, 11:44 AM
  #471  
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
Mine's a 6-Speed, not a TIP and the key was inadvertently left in the ignition switch months ago, well before installation of the IMMO BLOCK. Based on Jay's response, it's obvious to me that his circuitry takes care of my concern. He has assured us that there will be no additional drain. Case closed.
Further testing of the immobilizer keep-alive indicates:

With pin 7 of the immobilizer at 12V (from gong relay socket), the normal pin 8 draw of 10ma exists.
A current of about 50ma results from the alarm light (pin 5) being on because pin 7 has a constant 12V.
This current on pin 7 comes from an additional battery in the "replacement" gong relay, requiring removal over time to replace its battery.

Again, consider measuring the total 12V battery current draw when the 993 is "asleep" to verify no potential problems.

Last edited by Lorenfb; 04-22-2020 at 01:16 PM.
Old 04-22-2020, 12:45 PM
  #472  
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Originally Posted by LimeyBoy
I installed this yesterday and I would not be surprised if this was the first time the fuel gauge was removed - I could not budge it from the front. Well, I did not try too hard - after reading about scratching bezels, marking vinyl etc which seemed very likely a couple of times as I was having a go from the inside.
I have a selection of plastic pry tools etc and some funky imagination - but it just felt too tight no matter what I tried.

But I came across a Pelican post and tried what they did = push it out - from inside the frunk area.
It was very easy, slid out nicely.

You can just see the back of the fuel gauge below, it is yellow/beige colour.
I saw nothing that I would be damaging if I pressed on the back - as long as I didn't need to press too hard, and my fuel gauge plastic was not old and brittle:


Made an IMMO STICK (patent pending):
18" Long x 3/4" High x 1/4" Thick. I wrapped elec tape over the end that would contact the rear of the gauge.:
Slide it between the hinge and strut - I could also then shine a flashlight and 'see' the gauge as the IMMO STICK was pushed in towards it.



Once I made contact with the back of the gauge, I gave a little extra push and felt the gauge move. Nice!


Stay healthy.
Cheers
John-
Question on the IMMO STICK for myself and others - does the gauge come out just by pushing on it or do you have to tap on the end with a brick or something?

Version 2: How about adding a 2 x 4 lever arrangement between the stick and frunk lid, so that lowering the lid pushes the gauge out?

-Jay

Old 04-22-2020, 01:05 PM
  #473  
NC TRACKRAT
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Originally Posted by Lorenfb
Further testing of the immobilizer keep-alive indicates:

With pin 7 of the immobilizer at 12V (from gong relay socket), the normal pin 8 draw of 10ma exists.
Furthermore, an additional current of about 50ma results from the alarm light (pin 5) being on because pin 7 has a constant 12V.
This then results in a total of about 60ma alone just from the immobilizer, notwithstanding all the other ECUs in the 993.

Again, consider measuring the total 12V battery current draw when the 993 is "asleep".
Sorry to disprove your hypothesis but mine fluctuated between 19 and 20 ma. Again, I say "case closed".
Old 04-22-2020, 01:19 PM
  #474  
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And please confirm for all of us that the warning lamp is off, too.
Old 04-22-2020, 02:07 PM
  #475  
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Correct, Jay. No warning light on. "Sleeping" like a baby, Battery Tender unplugged.
Old 04-22-2020, 03:17 PM
  #476  
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Originally Posted by Jay777
John-
Question on the IMMO STICK for myself and others - does the gauge come out just by pushing on it or do you have to tap on the end with a brick or something?

Version 2: How about adding a 2 x 4 lever arrangement between the stick and frunk lid, so that lowering the lid pushes the gauge out?

-Jay
No real pressure at all, I left my persuading brick in the drawer. I was surprised that from the front it seemed so stuck as to be glued in - but with the push method (by hand) from the frunk it just came out.

Version 2: I'm on it....😎
Old 04-22-2020, 04:01 PM
  #477  
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Originally Posted by LimeyBoy
No real pressure at all, I left my persuading brick in the drawer. I was surprised that from the front it seemed so stuck as to be glued in - but with the push method (by hand) from the frunk it just came out.

Version 2: I'm on it....😎
Interesting. I have to say when the method was first mentioned earlier in the thread I couldn't quite picture the path to get in there to push, at least not with my fat hands, but your pic of the Home Depot stick slid in made it clear. Thanks for sharing, i'm sure it will be a help to others.
Old 04-22-2020, 04:17 PM
  #478  
TheFatArmadillo
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Originally Posted by Jay777
Interesting. I have to say when the method was first mentioned earlier in the thread I couldn't quite picture the path to get in there to push, at least not with my fat hands, but your pic of the Home Depot stick slid in made it clear. Thanks for sharing, i'm sure it will be a help to others.
You should have seen me trying to wedge my hand into that hole before going to the front of the dash and pulling.
Old 04-22-2020, 05:14 PM
  #479  
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Originally Posted by Jay777
...but your pic of the Home Depot stick slid in made it clear...
Ummm... IMMO STICK (patent pending)!
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Old 04-22-2020, 06:33 PM
  #480  
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There have been times when I would've used an IMMO STICK to beat the $%&* out of the IMMOBILIZER but now Jay has tamed it!


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