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Hi Jay am interested in purchasing your immobilizer block i drive a 1998 S but at age 71 i do not use pay pal could i send you by mail a personal check and when it clears send unit or how else could i pay you. Thank you George. Jay not good on line conversations will do my best to answer you.
Another very happy customer here. Installed the I-block in my '97 C2 manual and after a bit of confusion due to forgetting that the car still locks itself after a short time if you don't open the door as mentioned earlier, everything worked flawlessly. What an amazing upgrade to such a wonderful car!
Jay's support and communications have been bulletproof. No one should have any reservations about installing one of these in their 993.
Right, by providing a continuous immobilizer input, e.g. a small battery or a switched #30 power, which normally comes from the buzzer contact of the ignition switch
to pin 85 of the gong relay socket, will prevent the immobilizer from activating. This simulates the key still in the ignition switch.
Right, by providing a continuous immobilizer input, e.g. a small battery or a switched #30 power, which normally comes from the buzzer contact of the ignition switch
to pin 85 of the gong relay socket, will prevent the immobilizer from activating. This simulates the key still in the ignition switch.
Such an elegant solution to a complicated problem that has plagued owners for a very long time. Engineering at its best.
I installed this yesterday and I would not be surprised if this was the first time the fuel gauge was removed - I could not budge it from the front. Well, I did not try too hard - after reading about scratching bezels, marking vinyl etc which seemed very likely a couple of times as I was having a go from the inside.
I have a selection of plastic pry tools etc and some funky imagination - but it just felt too tight no matter what I tried.
But I came across a Pelican post and tried what they did = push it out - from inside the frunk area.
It was very easy, slid out nicely.
You can just see the back of the fuel gauge below, it is yellow/beige colour.
I saw nothing that I would be damaging if I pressed on the back - as long as I didn't need to press too hard, and my fuel gauge plastic was not old and brittle:
Made an IMMO STICK (patent pending):
18" Long x 3/4" High x 1/4" Thick. I wrapped elec tape over the end that would contact the rear of the gauge.:
Slide it between the hinge and strut - I could also then shine a flashlight and 'see' the gauge as the IMMO STICK was pushed in towards it.
Once I made contact with the back of the gauge, I gave a little extra push and felt the gauge move. Nice!
Good job John. Great Pics. Timely too - was just chatting with another customer today who was having trouble getting the gauge out and told him about an earlier post that reported a way to go in from the frunk. I think he actually ended up installing the IMMO BLOCK from the frunk and didn't have to remove the gauge at all.
Hey, when the IMMO STICK goes into production let know and i'll offer it on the web site as an accessory
Jay, if, in fact, the IMMO BLOCK acts as a "key in the ignition switch", is there an additional draw on the car's battery due to other systems staying "alive"? If so, is it significant?
Jay, if, in fact, the IMMO BLOCK acts as a "key in the ignition switch", is there an additional draw on the car's battery due to other systems staying "alive"? If so, is it significant?
The speedo uses the same #30 12V signal from the ignition switch as does the immobilizer. Try using a VOM with the scale set to 10 amperes initially to check the draw.
Typically, the 993 draw when asleep is less than 60 ma (.060 amps).
04-15-2020, 09:55 PM
Immobilizer block.
Thanks again, great project and product.
