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Thanks. That is very helpful. I do have the symposer ductwork in my car. Still waiting on the missing mount to show up. In any case, I think the mount as done by you is probably more stable and out of the way compared to the using the Flat6 mount.
Once you start the install and look around, you will see the space on the right side is a nice spot to mount the controller. I pointed the cables to exit the controller towards the rear, then they make a turn to the left when they are under the rear bulkhead. Other cables and wires run there, so it was easy to tie wrap the cable to the drivers side valve to the existing bundle. Having reviewed the options, I am very pleased with the controller location and cable path.
After a few more drives, the Homelink works every time! On and Off. So I'm happy with that also. I have the controller set to start in the "Stock" setting, then I can turn it to "Open" when I desire.
I happen to have lift and used it for the install. Many folks however create a little additional head room underneath the rear by driving onto ramps. No special tools needed. Audio clips unfortunately on iPhone dont come out well due to sound dampening. There are a few videos out there if you search. I had one of my kids helping me. While they fed the cables from the top, I fished and guided them out from below. Probably the most difficult part is disconnecting the OEM plugs, which in itself is not too difficult if you watch enough videos. Drove about 30 miles since install - glorious! All the usual sounds now with increased volume in all modes. In normal mode the tone is deeper. In sport mode you get to hear the engine and all the pops and crackles the way it should be. Open valves in sport mode is probably too loud to drive through my subdivision at night.
None of the videos I saw showed install in a turbo (S). The layout seems a little different from what I saw online in videos. I ended up in my turbo placing the controller like they did in the Kies video. Its wedged in there pretty good and it wont move. I did not even use the double-sided tape.
Anyone wanting an exhaust upgrade should try this mod first -for less than $700!
Received my Cargraphics Controller from Flat6 yesterday, and completed the install today. It took about 1.5 hours from start to cleanup. I received the Flat6 version "C" mount with the unit.
I took some time reviewing the mount location options, and decided to use the KEIS location on the right side. I chose this location for 2 reasons: 1) I felt the Flat6 mount was flimsy as it did not hold the controller in a firm position (it kept wanting to rotate down and rest on the Alternator shield - I do not have the Sound Symposer pipes which would wedge it in place). 2) I thought that some of the issues mentioned with the Homelink System not functioning reliably could be caused by the controllers proximity to the Alternator, and the EMI that the alternator creates.
The Right Side location works well, and provides a nice shelf for mounting the controller with the included double sided tape. Plus the cables can route with the existing harness from the right to the left. Once completed, nothing is readily seen, except for the Cargraphics Logo peeking out under some wires;
Once installed I programmed the Porsche Homelink System with the "Stock Valves" and "Open Valves" settings - (Easy Peasy). On the first test drive the 'Check Engine" light appeared with no message - just the "Engine Symbol" light in the Tachometer. Upon diagnostic with my ThinkDiag OBD II tool, there were no DTCs for the exhaust valves, only the engine fans. So I may have turned on the ignition to raise the Spoiler with the fans disconnected. Once I cleared the codes the light did not come back on during the 2nd test drive.
The controller functioned as it should. I had no issues with the Porsche Homelink system turning the controller ON and OFF - worked every time.
BIG difference in the sound! Lots more deep bass and volume. I LIKE IT!! And the ability to go back to stock PSE settings of PSE OFF and PSE ON.
I feel it is a great upgrade for those who do not want to spend the $$ on a Exhaust System or mess with a ECU Tune.
Question, When you mount the controller box to the right hand side as shown above, are you then using the longer right side wiring to go down to the left side exhaust and using the shorter left side wiring to go down to the right side exhaust? I was thinking that one side wires are shorter then the other side. So I guess I am asking if you are criss-crossing the wires since you are mounting the controller on the right hand side of your engine compartment rather than on the left hand side of your engine compartment as where it was originally meant to mount? I like the spot you put it in best. TIA
Seems the simplest solution if going to leave open all the time, no?
Yes, the simplest solution is to leave the factory valves in place and give them a signal to open, while providing a return signal to the ECU that will not trigger a CEL. This is the Valve Controller from Cargraphics. This is simpler than removing the valves, or installing an aftermarket exhaust without valves.
What you have listed above are kits that allow you to remove the valve or use an after market exhaust without valves, and not trip a CEL as the valves are no longer responding.
If anyone is interested, Im selling my Cargraphics valve controller. $500 local pickup in sacramento. Sharkwerks exhaust getting installed tomorrow. DM me if interested.
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