Reading through this whole thread, the only thing I can think is, “my god, it’s just a battery!”. This technology has been around for a long time!

My car needs a new one under warranty (non lithium) and Porsche is giving me a hell of a time. I’m just going to buy it myself because it’s not worth the hassle over $350.

 

I do not believe this works in the Cayenne yet?

 

@991.1 Guy that's precisely what they want you to do. Excellence is expected!

@FlyPenFly contact them and find out.

siberian

 

Driving you car frequently will indeed keep the battery charged, but depending on how large the parasitic drain is that may mean every few days, and not once a week. Also keep in mind you have to drive long enough to get a good charge back into the battery, so the 15 to 30 minute jaunts around town may not top off a battery. We've run into many people who drive every few weeks, but then we find out they only drive a short distance, so it overall a net LOSS on the state of charge of the battery, so it never fully charged enough of the time and keep draining down.

But to get to your question, it is not about how much you "drive" but rather if you keep the battery charged. With a battery you can keep it on a charger and it will maintain and charge it.... so you don't have to drive alot to keep a battery charged. So the Porsche argument that you need to "drive" your car a certain amount does really apply to a battery and keeping it healthy. But I'm sure it would apply to other components that benefit from rotation or use that can't be achieved if the car is not moving.

 

Yep, and worth noting here - seeing there are a few names I don’t recognize - that I’m into my 3rd AGM battery on my 2020 992, despite it doing the ‘required’ 6,000 miles per year. I won’t repeat the saga here, if anyone is interested look up the “$2500” battery thread here.

 

Is this new? I thought it was not possible to replace the Porsche LiFePO4 battery with a non OEM battery.

 

Ok, sorry but could folks PLEASE use the SEARCH function. We are not going to rehash stuff that's been covered umpteen times. The brief answer is YES it's POSSIBLE, contact Anti-Gravity as I mentioned above.

siberian

 

That's what Boeing thought when they designed the 787 with Lithium Ion Batteries

 

Cost me $3,300.....

 

Whatever blame LiFePO4 batteries have plus the sudden and early death of AGM batteries, again points to not only the physical technology but the control software that is causing these batteries to die. The refusal to awaken from Stage 1 "sleep", the constant drain from myriads of system that suck the life out of them from PVTS, to comfort seats to Porsche Connect to... . All of this as for the past 30 years (as with IPv6 for those in the know) we all knew that 12v couldn't keep up and a migration to 48v was not only desired but imperative.

Cars back in the muscle car stone age sat for weeks and no one panicked, battery swaps happened by going to Sears (remember them?) and getting a Die Hard not this absolute BS that requires a registration to ensure more money went to dealers and manufacturers.

To the best of my knowledge and I would welcome to be corrected, LiFePO4 batteries do not self ignite absent of any external actions. The fact that they self protect is fine, what isn't is the BMS SW that doesn't work and prevents them from waking up via external stimuli. What doesn't work is the "management" in BMS, perhaps a separate battery like in the Touareg V10 separating tasks between the two. What is clear is BMS doesn't work or the objectives that BMS has to achieve are not possible.

Porsche owns this mess called BMS. To continue to ignore this and owners avoiding calling the kettle black because we must admire everything coming out of Zuffenhausen is inane. Over 3 grand for a battery that dies within a year or two of a predicted ten year life cycle... what's the MTBF? When is someone going to file a class action law suit?

Just saying

siberian

 

This may just be coincidence, but when I cancelled Porsche Connect and deleted the app off my phone, I wasn't getting the parasitic drain anymore. I left for a 3-week vacation and forgot to put it on the charger. I had no issues starting it at all.

 

While I agree that Porsche kind of sucks at electronics (I love standing in front of my car waiting for the door handles to figure out I'm there while I look like a total dork - well more so and don't get me started on the Homelink that was in the 2020/2021 cars.... ) improperly manufactured Lithium Ion batteries can go boom. I don't think any one has had that issue - but/and I suspect that's why all the safety stuff was added to the BMS which just so happens to be really good at disabling our cars.... and what really sucks is when you have to get that hood open and you have a right hand drive car..... at least from what I've read.

 

another data point to add to @siberian et al's pain. any input from the gurus and @Antigravity ?

992T, about 2kmiles

• found LFP battery totally dead overnight despite battery tender (costco deltran special, 4ampish)--might have had acc on with dummy key, face palm emoji
• tried on identical 2nd battery tender, >24hrs too, no luck, fuses all good
• when got the frunk open, multimeter read 0.3V, fo' real!--even after >48hrs total of tender
• AAA hooked up and instantly started, so presume this was a sleep situation, multimeter at mid 13V's for awhile (need to check again)
• however, PCM shows "vehicle electrical system error"
• OMW to dealership for check, but already told be no specific campaigns (eg 2229?)

doubtful background factors:

• tender is on extension cord reel to AC-->tender hardwired to battery and strut region ground
• there are dash cams, but these are wired to laptop/UPS battery-->plugged to cord reel
• there is a battery pack also plugged into the center glove (switched power??)
• on delivery, did do a parasitic draw test from the neg terminal and was fine (but before Porsche connect usage??)
• do use Porsche Connect pretty frequently for "honk/flashing" the admirers whom I see on my security cams

questions:

1. when the LFP voltage is so low, would the trickle/tender not be able to revive it
2. is the AG microstart + harness the best solution (and least proprietary) to jump without the bloody fuse panel/frunk dance? (hate the noco steve job's connector move-iykyk)
3. if so, can both the harness and trickle eyelets be at same attachment points/terminals?

disclaimer...i did try to search relevant troubleshooting threads, but not an electrical engineer!

TIA!!!

 

1. the trickle charger will not be able to revive a battery that low.
2. Try it it's the only way you and us will know whether this works.
3. I don't see why not

I would go with CTek fwiw

siberian

 

A couple things to point out...

Any of those Porsche Connect and other manufacturers things like that draw alot of energy. They monitor your car and send data to whomever and location info and its taking a lot of energy to run that stuff. It like when your laptop is connected to the internet the battery drains super fast. So watch for those connections.

Also a CTEK charger has a max of 4 amps but it will rarely supply that much to the car ever, it usually just a fraction of the 4 amps it rated for so depending on your load you might not be getting a real good charge on the battery if that Porsche Connect and other accessories are drawing on the battery at the same time. Might want to invest in a 10Amp Charger that can provide some overhead during times of all the accessory possibly drawing on the system.

Very good you have batteries for your Cameras, but you stated you had one plugged into the Power port in the car, so make sure it it switched off in Key-off Position. Alot of time USB chargers and other stuff you plug into accessory ports draw way more energy than you may think. Because they will have lights or other stuff that does not turn off even if you are not charging anything. We tested some and one was drawing 1.5 amps just being plugged in and without powering any USB Devices like a phone. So watch those things.

A trickle Charger, or a regular 4 Amp CTEk cannot wake up the Lithium Batteries. You need a Charger that has a BMS reset.... like Optimate makes, or a Power supply type charger that you can feed a higher voltage to so you can wake up the battery IF it is not in it lock-out protection state. For example you need a strong 12v or higher voltage, with a solid probably 8-10 amp of current because the car draws energy once it sees electricity. So a CTEK won't overcome the current and voltage drawn by the car when you connect it to the car and try to give the system a boost that would wake up the Lithium Batteries BMS, even when you press the CTEK RE-SET button. We found the Optimate Model with a BMS re-set can work on our battery in most circumstances, but not if you have the lights on because they start drawing current and take away from the level of voltage and current you need to zap the battery awake.

YES you can attache both the our Micro-Start Harness and the Charger to the same connection point you use them at different time for different things so you are good. WE have a diode on our harness so you can't directly connect the Charger through our Harness. The Diode if for safety so no back charge will go into the jump starters port after you start the car.

Hope that was clear enough, if not let me know.