Lithium ion battery
#271
Instructor
Lithium battery
lithium battery is not a secret the best cells are Korean and Japanese Samsung or Panasonic several others ones . If you just break open the battery cover should be able to tell the key is the battery management system . You can find battery rebuilder can take any battery and repair it not worth taking to Porsche to get ripped off. The key is the ecu Circuit needs to be retained . I’ve bebuilt several e vehicles from scratch . 12 volt should be an easy one to repair .
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George718 (06-13-2024)
#272
Lithium-ion batteries are where it's at for me. Recently, I decided to invest in an LFP battery pack from PKnergy for my outdoor adventures. Let me tell you, it's been a game-changer in terms of reliability and durability. Last camping trip, it powered my gear flawlessly for days on end. If you're in the market for a dependable power source, definitely give them a look!
#273
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IF you guys change the Ground Cable, you can use and aftermarket Battery either AGM or Antigravity Lithium. Porsche's Lithium Battery has its IBS (intelligent battery sensor) in the Porsche Lithium Battery itself, BUT for the AGM equipped Cars they have the IBS on the Ground Cable itself. So if you change out that Ground Cable then it still reports what it should to the ECU but it just you plug the connector into the Ground Strap rather than the Lithium Battery itself. Hope that makes sense. Screw driver it pointing to the part that you plug into when you change out the Ground Cable.
#274
Burning Brakes
#275
IF you guys change the Ground Cable, you can use and aftermarket Battery either AGM or Antigravity Lithium. Porsche's Lithium Battery has its IBS (intelligent battery sensor) in the Porsche Lithium Battery itself, BUT for the AGM equipped Cars they have the IBS on the Ground Cable itself. So if you change out that Ground Cable then it still reports what it should to the ECU but it just you plug the connector into the Ground Strap rather than the Lithium Battery itself. Hope that makes sense. Screw driver it pointing to the part that you plug into when you change out the Ground Cable.
#276
RL Community Team
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And how much weight are you thinking of saving vs. cost of LiFePO4??? As mentioned a gazillion times, the main issue with these batteries resides in the BMS; which is of course present in both AGM and lithium ones.
So though many folks have gone from lithium to AGM for FUD reasons (given underlying BMS issues), you must be the first one going the other way for reasons of "weight"? Thanks for clarifying...
siberian
So though many folks have gone from lithium to AGM for FUD reasons (given underlying BMS issues), you must be the first one going the other way for reasons of "weight"? Thanks for clarifying...
siberian
#277
And how much weight are you thinking of saving vs. cost of LiFePO4??? As mentioned a gazillion times, the main issue with these batteries resides in the BMS; which is of course present in both AGM and lithium ones.
So though many folks have gone from lithium to AGM for FUD reasons (given underlying BMS issues), you must be the first one going the other way for reasons of "weight"? Thanks for clarifying...
siberian
So though many folks have gone from lithium to AGM for FUD reasons (given underlying BMS issues), you must be the first one going the other way for reasons of "weight"? Thanks for clarifying...
siberian
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Jeff Whitten (06-14-2024)
#278
RL Community Team
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As was mentioned, you need a new ground cable as well as the battery. HOWEVER, the underlying issues with the LiFePO4 is the BMS and that carries over to the AGM as well. OTOH the life expectancy of the lithium battery is supposed to be 10 years which is double the AGM.
Lastly and again I spent a lot of time researching this but there are issues with the ConBox as well (use the search tool) that may also point to latent issues. Best bet is to (when not driving it) place the car on a tender. Irrational, idiotic but there you have it. As to weight saving, I'm not tracking the car so I don't care.
siberian
Lastly and again I spent a lot of time researching this but there are issues with the ConBox as well (use the search tool) that may also point to latent issues. Best bet is to (when not driving it) place the car on a tender. Irrational, idiotic but there you have it. As to weight saving, I'm not tracking the car so I don't care.
siberian
#279
As was mentioned, you need a new ground cable as well as the battery. HOWEVER, the underlying issues with the LiFePO4 is the BMS and that carries over to the AGM as well. OTOH the life expectancy of the lithium battery is supposed to be 10 years which is double the AGM.
Lastly and again I spent a lot of time researching this but there are issues with the ConBox as well (use the search tool) that may also point to latent issues. Best bet is to (when not driving it) place the car on a tender. Irrational, idiotic but there you have it. As to weight saving, I'm not tracking the car so I don't care.
siberian
Lastly and again I spent a lot of time researching this but there are issues with the ConBox as well (use the search tool) that may also point to latent issues. Best bet is to (when not driving it) place the car on a tender. Irrational, idiotic but there you have it. As to weight saving, I'm not tracking the car so I don't care.
siberian
#280
RL Community Team
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If you don't drive your car daily, I would seriously consider a CTEK tender. Battery drain from myriad of sources (especially PVTS) makes this a no brainer compared to the cost and pain of having a dead battery. Consider also disabling *** by running in SPORT Mode, yep, heat and cold will chew up batteries.
FWIW back in the day if you specced RAS you were forced to accept LiFePO4. Given the issues with it (again mostly centered on BMS and ConBox for selected years and software rev) they're now offering higher output AGMs.
siberian
FWIW back in the day if you specced RAS you were forced to accept LiFePO4. Given the issues with it (again mostly centered on BMS and ConBox for selected years and software rev) they're now offering higher output AGMs.
siberian
Last edited by siberian; 06-14-2024 at 12:02 PM.
#281
If you don't drive your car daily, I would seriously consider a CTEK tender. Battery drain from myriad of sources (especially PVTS) makes this a no brainer compared to the cost and pain of having a dead battery. Consider also disabling *** by running in SPORT Mode, yep, heat and cold will chew up batteries.
FWIW back in the day if you specced RAS you were forced to accept LiFePO4. Given the issues with it (again mostly centered on BMS and ConBox for selected years and software rev) they're now offering higher output AGMs.
siberian
FWIW back in the day if you specced RAS you were forced to accept LiFePO4. Given the issues with it (again mostly centered on BMS and ConBox for selected years and software rev) they're now offering higher output AGMs.
siberian
#282
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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Though I have tried I've not yet managed to defeat *** permanently as was the case in 2020 and prior models where a button on the console permanently disabled it. Sport Mode is the only way AFAIK.
I'm not passing judgement on Antigravity and their batteries but simply stating that the issues run deeper and beyond their control.
GL
siberian
I'm not passing judgement on Antigravity and their batteries but simply stating that the issues run deeper and beyond their control.
GL
siberian
#283
Though I have tried I've not yet managed to defeat *** permanently as was the case in 2020 and prior models where a button on the console permanently disabled it. Sport Mode is the only way AFAIK.
I'm not passing judgement on Antigravity and their batteries but simply stating that the issues run deeper and beyond their control.
GL
siberian
I'm not passing judgement on Antigravity and their batteries but simply stating that the issues run deeper and beyond their control.
GL
siberian
Understood on battery, I appreciate the knowledge share. Gracias!
#284
Rennlist Member
So I got my T and it came with the AGM.
I've been driving it around in normal mode during the break in to try and get first hand impressions of what I think about the start/stop system. I've been using a CC/CV power supply to recharge the battery after my drives, and It's pretty wild how depleted the battery gets just from normal driving. The way this car behaves with it's charging / battery strategy is not like any of my older vehicles. It seems like the strategy is to run down the battery and leave it in a depleted state.
So just based on that, I think it's probably beneficial to put the car on a tender even if you drive it daily. Even w/o Start stop it still doesn't seem to keep the battery topped up. At least not from my drives.
I've been driving it around in normal mode during the break in to try and get first hand impressions of what I think about the start/stop system. I've been using a CC/CV power supply to recharge the battery after my drives, and It's pretty wild how depleted the battery gets just from normal driving. The way this car behaves with it's charging / battery strategy is not like any of my older vehicles. It seems like the strategy is to run down the battery and leave it in a depleted state.
So just based on that, I think it's probably beneficial to put the car on a tender even if you drive it daily. Even w/o Start stop it still doesn't seem to keep the battery topped up. At least not from my drives.
Last edited by Mike818; 06-14-2024 at 03:16 PM.
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CJDCREW (06-14-2024)