Has anyone done a CarPlay retrofit / Headunit replacement for 991.1
#3646
Burning Brakes
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This may be a red herring - surely someone who wants rear sound would already have the PCM settings to enable that, and thus these settings would automagically be OK?
#3647
Rennlist Member
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Yes, but if the volume is a bit too low... Which is why we advise people to crank up the PCM before removing it..
I don't know but throwing out there for what it's worth
I don't know but throwing out there for what it's worth
Last edited by andy2111; 08-10-2024 at 05:41 PM.
#3648
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StanfordBear (08-10-2024)
#3649
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^^^^
It should be possible, with a bit of jiggery-pokery, to wire the front output to the rear output, stick a cheap potentiometer in somewhere (say under the dash or in the glove box) and create a rear speaker setup. Once a decent balance has been achieved between front and rear, the pot shouldn't need to be touched again, so can be hidden away. The caution would be that if the speakers are wired in parallel, then there is a halving of impedance to both sets. With 8 ohm speakers, this would give a total load impedance of 4 ohms for each speaker . This should be OK for most modern amps, but I would recommend checking the impedance of the existing speakers and the rating of the existing amp. If the original speakers are already 4 ohm, then dropping to 2 ohm might be more than the amp is happy with. Having said that, if the speakers are wired in series, then this should be safe - two 4 ohm speakers in series, for example, makes a total load impedance of 8 ohms (or two 2 ohm speakers = total load of 4 ohms) which most amps should be OK with. Bear in mind that changing the overall impedance will increase or decrease the power output of the amp.Parallel wiring = increased output power and Series winding = decreased output power. So a Series setup might result in insufficient amp grunt (although probably of no concern in a car setup for most).
For most people, these suggestions are probably not worth the trouble - esp. those with 2 seater cars. For those with 4 seater cars, it may be worthwhile if you regularly carry back seat passengers who want music. But in my own use scenario, if it's kids in the back seats, they are much happier using their phone to stream content of their choice. This has the knock-on benefit that the driver doesn't have to listen to Taylor Swift at max volume for hours on end![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
It should be possible, with a bit of jiggery-pokery, to wire the front output to the rear output, stick a cheap potentiometer in somewhere (say under the dash or in the glove box) and create a rear speaker setup. Once a decent balance has been achieved between front and rear, the pot shouldn't need to be touched again, so can be hidden away. The caution would be that if the speakers are wired in parallel, then there is a halving of impedance to both sets. With 8 ohm speakers, this would give a total load impedance of 4 ohms for each speaker . This should be OK for most modern amps, but I would recommend checking the impedance of the existing speakers and the rating of the existing amp. If the original speakers are already 4 ohm, then dropping to 2 ohm might be more than the amp is happy with. Having said that, if the speakers are wired in series, then this should be safe - two 4 ohm speakers in series, for example, makes a total load impedance of 8 ohms (or two 2 ohm speakers = total load of 4 ohms) which most amps should be OK with. Bear in mind that changing the overall impedance will increase or decrease the power output of the amp.Parallel wiring = increased output power and Series winding = decreased output power. So a Series setup might result in insufficient amp grunt (although probably of no concern in a car setup for most).
For most people, these suggestions are probably not worth the trouble - esp. those with 2 seater cars. For those with 4 seater cars, it may be worthwhile if you regularly carry back seat passengers who want music. But in my own use scenario, if it's kids in the back seats, they are much happier using their phone to stream content of their choice. This has the knock-on benefit that the driver doesn't have to listen to Taylor Swift at max volume for hours on end
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Rennlist: Bose MOST adaptor loss of fade work around
#3650
Burning Brakes
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This is worth a read for those really keen to get sound to the rear speakers i.e. HU Rear RCA outputs > separate amp > outputs spliced into rear speaker cables. Not a 991.1-era car but concept will be the same.
Rennlist: Bose MOST adaptor loss of fade work around
Rennlist: Bose MOST adaptor loss of fade work around
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#3651
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This is worth a read for those really keen to get sound to the rear speakers i.e. HU Rear RCA outputs > separate amp > outputs spliced into rear speaker cables. Not a 991.1-era car but concept will be the same.
Rennlist: Bose MOST adaptor loss of fade work around
Rennlist: Bose MOST adaptor loss of fade work around
#3653
Rennlist Member
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Alas the CHSTEK does not have rear RCA outputs as far as I can remember. Its one of the very few drawbacks with this HU
I just found this article....MOST 4 channel Audio Converter - MBWorld.org Forums and if references it working in Porsches
".....PCG-642-580-00 from Porsche is a 4 channel audio converter to MOST interface for about $119-$180....."
its a bit light on detail but do any of the more techical folks out there have a view on this?
I just found this article....MOST 4 channel Audio Converter - MBWorld.org Forums and if references it working in Porsches
".....PCG-642-580-00 from Porsche is a 4 channel audio converter to MOST interface for about $119-$180....."
its a bit light on detail but do any of the more techical folks out there have a view on this?
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StanfordBear (08-11-2024)
#3654
Rennlist Member
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This is a 4 channel MOST adapter that is mentioned in a few places that you can order from Russia
OEM amplifier start adapter (activator, switch-on) Most-AMP 4.0 (playauto.ru)
OEM amplifier adapter Most-AMP 3.0 (playauto.ru)
Some mixed reviews if you search but its not that expensive and might be worth trying?
OEM amplifier start adapter (activator, switch-on) Most-AMP 4.0 (playauto.ru)
OEM amplifier adapter Most-AMP 3.0 (playauto.ru)
Some mixed reviews if you search but its not that expensive and might be worth trying?
#3656
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Alas the CHSTEK does not have rear RCA outputs as far as I can remember. Its one of the very few drawbacks with this HU
I just found this article....MOST 4 channel Audio Converter - MBWorld.org Forums and if references it working in Porsches
".....PCG-642-580-00 from Porsche is a 4 channel audio converter to MOST interface for about $119-$180....."
its a bit light on detail but do any of the more techical folks out there have a view on this?
I just found this article....MOST 4 channel Audio Converter - MBWorld.org Forums and if references it working in Porsches
".....PCG-642-580-00 from Porsche is a 4 channel audio converter to MOST interface for about $119-$180....."
its a bit light on detail but do any of the more techical folks out there have a view on this?
Re: MOST adapter - everything that I've read (and I've done a bit today
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Finally, apologies to @boxdriver who provided many of the fader workaround options in an earlier post
Last edited by ratt359; 08-11-2024 at 04:04 PM.
#3657
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This is a 4 channel MOST adapter that is mentioned in a few places that you can order from Russia
OEM amplifier start adapter (activator, switch-on) Most-AMP 4.0 (playauto.ru)
OEM amplifier adapter Most-AMP 3.0 (playauto.ru)
Some mixed reviews if you search but its not that expensive and might be worth trying?
OEM amplifier start adapter (activator, switch-on) Most-AMP 4.0 (playauto.ru)
OEM amplifier adapter Most-AMP 3.0 (playauto.ru)
Some mixed reviews if you search but its not that expensive and might be worth trying?
(1) Bose users would need Front LR and Rear LR i.e. 4ch RCA inputs for this to work (hence my questions about the quadlock / potential hacking thereof) and
(2) as I understand, it would be very difficult to get anything sent from Russia right now
#3658
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@andy2111 can you confirm that the fader works as expected in non-Bose cars? If so, I believe there must be Front LR and Rear LR outputs via the quadlock. According to the guide, you don't use the Front LR RCAs for non-Bose. Please confirm that the fader issue is just for Bose/MOST cars.
Re: MOST adapter - everything that I've read (and I've done a bit today
) indicates that the MOST adapter sends to the full 5.1 speaker array on the 991.1 (Front LR, Rear LR, centre front dash tweeter + subwoofer), but perhaps not with the Front/Rear balance that some would like. I've done a lot of fiddling today and confirmed (a) output to all speakers and (b) fader changes via the EQ only change volume and not the Front/Rear balance - as you might expect, given the above.
Finally, apologies to @boxdriver who provided many of the fader workaround options in an earlier post
Re: MOST adapter - everything that I've read (and I've done a bit today
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Finally, apologies to @boxdriver who provided many of the fader workaround options in an earlier post
#3659
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I have read tons of threads but can’t find my answer.
Problem:
No power such as LCD, sound, electrical noise
BUT there is a red light blinking inside the head unit.
Current set up
New Chstek (https://www.ebay.com/itm/31530018169...mis&media=COPY)
All cables are plugged into head unit, MOST and AUX cable based on connectors from each unit. I have checked head unit fuse and fuse box.
I have not made any modifications to any cable from Chstek or the car.
I have attached pics from my unit. Any advise would be appreciated. I worked on this project for 3 hours today but no luck.
#3660
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I have read tons of threads but can’t find my answer.
Problem:
No power such as LCD, sound, electrical noise
BUT there is a red light blinking inside the head unit.
Current set up
New Chstek (https://www.ebay.com/itm/31530018169...mis&media=COPY)
All cables are plugged into head unit, MOST and AUX cable based on connectors from each unit. I have checked head unit fuse and fuse box.
I have not made any modifications to any cable from Chstek or the car.
I have attached pics from my unit. Any advise would be appreciated. I worked on this project for 3 hours today but no luck.
Last edited by bmxtreme; 08-11-2024 at 10:18 PM.