ZedZed

They probably don't realise that Porsche enthusiasts on 4 continents are desperately awaiting your canbus trials.

Chuck245

Re: "I'm certainly no expert on CANBUS either but based on some of the suggestions from the seller, what worries me is that neither are they."

The issue is most likely still at Level 1 or Level 2 of their Customer Support team. So, they are just throwing stuff at us based on what they think are similar issues others had in the past. If disconnecting CAN-L doesn't work, they most likely will escalate the issue to the next level, and we will get more "targeted" solutions for the issue.

Well, making assumptions about their Customer Support size and structure. It may be a one man show...

On the positive side, based on the empirical problem analysis we have done so far, we believe that the issue is related to the CANbus physical level, and it looks like Erisin thinks the same. I suspect that this is an area of concern that Erisin (and other manufacturers) developers have been dealing with and they have some experience investigating. I hope I'm right. 

IMHO, as the issue is constant, the next logical step would be to connect an oscilloscope to the car side CAN-L line while the HU side is connected and then do the same when the HU side is disconnected and compare the signals. Same with CAN-H and including with CAN-L connected and disconnected. If the issue is related to the physical level of the CANbus, I would expect to see differences on the signals that could help pinpoint the issue.

But on the meantime, cutting pliers in the hands of a courageous and determined fellow HU-owner that owns a spare HU may be a faster and more practical next step
Seriously, I might be wrong (and please do not sue me if I am) but disconnecting CAN-L is very low risks. But without a better knowledge of CANbus and directions from Erisin, I would be more reluctant to ground it.

andy2111

I could just break the CAN L pin on my spare HU but I'm reluctant to do something so irreversible and damage an otherwise good working unit (albeit one with permanently regressed MCU firmware!)

That said if my extension harness is not dispatched soon my impatience might get the better of me and I'll not be able resist the lure of the pliers...!

ZedZed

Can you just not depin the relevant wire?

andy2111

From the quadlock socket on the HU?

Chuck245

Yes, you can depin from the quadlock but there is the risk of damaging the pin. Patience is the mother of all virtues: wait for the extension

Chuck245

RE: "I could just break the CAN L pin on my spare HU but I'm reluctant to do something so irreversible and damage an otherwise good working unit "
Yea, makes sense. This will also qualify as a "brutal" approach and the HU still very valuable. Not to mention that if disconnecting the CAN-L wire is not solving the issue, you will be left with a damaged HU for nothing.

ZedZed

Depinning connectors isn't all that difficult - basically all pins of any type have a locking tab. You need to push back the tab to release the pin. I've done it more than once just using a sharp, straight pick, but a set of depinning tools is only a few quid/bucks and makes the job easier.

Here's a cheap set from Amazon which looks like it caters for any pin in the world:



As always, user discretion is advised and, per Chuck's advice, if in doubt, keep out.

Here is a good video that shows how to depin many common connector types. I would imagine there are videos showing the quadlock specifically, but the basic procedure is always the same - bend back the locking tab, gently pull out the pin. As with most things, if you have an old discarded connector from any kind of equipment that uses pinned connectors, practising on that first is A Good Idea.

SSMOKE-U

I know this is an old thread but I feel it necessary to put out there that 9XX Research is not a safe company to do business with and not certified partners with Porsche.

Chuck245

ZedZed is right, de-pinning is not too difficult if you are careful. Just keep in mind that you can only bend the pin tab so many times before it breaks.

For flat pin tabs, I try to "flex" the tab just what is needed to go over the tab stopper in the plug body and try to bend it as little as possible. If you bend it too much to take the pin out, you will have to bend it back before to put it back in the plug. And more times you bend the tab, more chances that it breaks. Again, just be careful and take your time if you go this way.

ZedZed

Good point, Chuck, about taking care not to break off the little tab. As you say, there's no point in bending the tab more than is needed in order to release the pin. 'Flexing' is a much more appropriate description than 'bending'. From Andy's prior posts, I'd say this was well within his capabilities, but only he can decide. I personally have never damaged a pin, but I am also very familiar with the phrase 'famous last words', so I am always super careful

I may, of course, be encouraging Andy too much in my desire to see what happens when the CAN-L wire is disconnected. I guess I could do it myself on the Cayman, but I have to remember that it is my wife's car not mine, which causes me to be 'reluctant to fiddle' too much. I am also very familiar with the phrase 'why don't you just leave things alone?' if and when something doesn't work out as planned (often in the context of firmware or software updates breaking previously working things).

MP4S&G

Regarding Boot animation, I've been looking at this myself, with thanks to anekdotos on https://www.planet-9.com I have finally managed it.
Hope they don't mind me sharing his info here https://www.planet-9.com/threads/rep...1/post-2213385

For the second part in factory settings use password 3368, then hey presto!

andy2111

I looked at the thread, but can't see the details of how to get the boot aminations? I have the required animation zip file, but how do you get the unit to use the new animation?

MP4S&G

If you connect the head unit to your home wi-fi you can connect to it from a PC on the same network. You'll need to install the Android STK (Sim Toolkit) on your PC.
You can get it here;
https://developer.android.com/tools/...platform-tools.

Just download and unzip it to a drive on your PC.

Then run a cmd prompt and change directory to the unzip folder e.g. cd D:\platform-tools

Copy the bootanimation.zip file you want to use to this folder.

Then on the head unit, go into the factory settings menu and enter 5555 to turn on wireless connectivity, it will display the IP address the unit has been allocated.

Then back on the PC in the cmd prompt, connect to it as per the instructions, in summary:

D:\platform-tools> ./adb connect 192.168.1.2 (but your Head units IP address)

D:\platform-tools> ./adb root

D:\platform-tools> ./adb remount

D:\platform-tools> ./adb shell mkdir /system/ziqi/bootanim

D:\platform-tools> ./adb push bootanimation.zip /system/ziqi/bootanim/bootanimation.zip


This will copy the .zip file to the relevant folder on the head unit.

Then back on the head unit, go to factory settings and enter the 3368 password.

Go to boot animation and you should see the .zip file you've just copied across. Long press it and it should take effect.

Reboot and admire your handy work!

andy2111

That is awesome, thank you for making it so clear and easy to follow!

Am I right that the boot animation replaces the green android image so the startup sequence will be to display the splash screen first and then the new boot animation?