I Stepped Up AGAIN (991.2 Turbo S)
05-28-2021, 04:02 PM
#481
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You will need to basically remove the turbo. You can try this though:
Remove bracket bolt that's holding turbo
Undo the 3 bolts/studs holding turbo to manifold.
That should leave the turbo hanging, but not totally and should leave you with enough room to wiggle the hardlines/turbo down to make access for the ign coil/plug.
-Payam
Remove bracket bolt that's holding turbo
Undo the 3 bolts/studs holding turbo to manifold.
That should leave the turbo hanging, but not totally and should leave you with enough room to wiggle the hardlines/turbo down to make access for the ign coil/plug.
-Payam
Someone has to know the Dealer recommended way to do this!!
I appreciate the help, just wished we all knew the "Dealer" way of doing it.
How often do these studs break from removing / unbuttoning the turbos??
05-28-2021, 04:06 PM
#483
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I want to know if Anybody KNOWS a Porsche Dealer mechanic and can confirm THIS ^^ is how they do it!!
Someone has to know the Dealer recommended way to do this!!
I appreciate the help, just wished we all knew the "Dealer" way of doing it.
How often do these studs break from removing / unbuttoning the turbos??
Someone has to know the Dealer recommended way to do this!!
I appreciate the help, just wished we all knew the "Dealer" way of doing it.
How often do these studs break from removing / unbuttoning the turbos??
The guys at AIM performance definitely have more experience than I do, so maybe they can chime in for some advice?
I've never broke a stud and I've messed around a lot in that area. Just put some PB blaster or WD40 and let it sit for a little before trying to remove the bolts.
-Payam
05-28-2021, 04:15 PM
#484
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The connections he was referring to were the pneumatic lines - looked to be four in total, two grey and two white going I think into two bladders. Have you tried having it up on a lift to check the bladders, maybe some soapy water spray. You could also try deploying it whilst stationary and manually rocking it or pressurising it to see if that reproduces the error code.
I did all of this and posted a video about it. Bladder seems good. Holds air fine. Up to 77 mph... Soon as 78 rolls around, it throws code.
I just have this feeling this is a bad electronic connection or something.
For now, I'm more consumed with doing the plugs and Y-pipe... Once I get it up and running and can enjoy the car, I'll then make an appointment and let the dealer hopefully diagnose and fix it.
05-29-2021, 01:28 PM
#485
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WE GOT IT OUT!!!!
Amazing what a fresh day will do. ONLY had to remove the hanger nut!!
Will post pic / vid later.
Amazing what a fresh day will do. ONLY had to remove the hanger nut!!
Will post pic / vid later.
05-29-2021, 02:38 PM
#486
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Amazing what a fresh set of eyes on a new day can do. All we had to do is remove the turbo hanger bolt / nut and clock the coil the right way and it came right out.
Let's hope the other side is just as easy or easier.
New plugs gapped at .024.
Here are a few pics / vids to share our victory!! lol
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Let's hope the other side is just as easy or easier.
New plugs gapped at .024.
Here are a few pics / vids to share our victory!! lol
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ngamountains (05-29-2021)
05-29-2021, 02:48 PM
#487
Even though it's not a one hit burn, the timing mark looks ok. Color is good as well. Hairy eyeball says the tune is safe.
05-29-2021, 03:04 PM
#488
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Great news on the plugs...
The spoiler definitely sounds like an electrical issue rather than physical damage or pneumatic. You really need to get a code reader on there and see if there are any error codes that will give you more info if you haven't already.... My guess is that it is either a bad sensor or bad control module, not just a loose connection.
The spoiler definitely sounds like an electrical issue rather than physical damage or pneumatic. You really need to get a code reader on there and see if there are any error codes that will give you more info if you haven't already.... My guess is that it is either a bad sensor or bad control module, not just a loose connection.
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Big Swole (05-29-2021)
05-30-2021, 05:10 AM
#489
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Passenger Side went way way easier!!!
05-30-2021, 12:20 PM
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Tools needed to complete the Plug and Filter change to complete my 4 years Service ( I paid the dealer to do and oil / filter change and Brake Flush back a couple months ago before the track day due to not having time to do it).
-T20 Torx
-T25
-T30-
-External Torx sockets (small one - can't remember size). - My 12 point 8mm ratchet wrench was perfect for the ones I could reach. Pass. side had one on the turbo inlet that needed the socket
-7mm socket for hose clamps
-10mm socket
-long and short extensions
-Needle nose pliers
-Channel Lock pliers
-Plug Socket with the extension attached (my friend had this tool - paid like $30 for it...Worked perfect)
-I think it was a 12 or 13 mm socket to get the not off the turbo hanger bolt.
-Flat head screw driver
I think that's about it but if remember anything else, I'll edit this post.
David
-T20 Torx
-T25
-T30-
-External Torx sockets (small one - can't remember size). - My 12 point 8mm ratchet wrench was perfect for the ones I could reach. Pass. side had one on the turbo inlet that needed the socket
-7mm socket for hose clamps
-10mm socket
-long and short extensions
-Needle nose pliers
-Channel Lock pliers
-Plug Socket with the extension attached (my friend had this tool - paid like $30 for it...Worked perfect)
-I think it was a 12 or 13 mm socket to get the not off the turbo hanger bolt.
-Flat head screw driver
I think that's about it but if remember anything else, I'll edit this post.
David
05-30-2021, 01:42 PM
#491
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Few more photos showing the Drivers side buttoned up after plugs installed , Passengers side Plugs that came out, and of my Forge Champion DV's I didn't know I had.
Last edited by Big Swole; 05-30-2021 at 01:44 PM.
05-30-2021, 01:46 PM
#492
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Also..... As some know, I decided to be conservative and go back with a factory Y-pipe Sam had sent to me!! But in an effort to just see if I could prevent it from spliting open again like my failure, I used the rest of my JB Weld to Reinforce the Seam. NO clue if this will actually help but who knows. It was worth a try.
Last edited by Big Swole; 05-30-2021 at 01:47 PM.
05-31-2021, 12:19 AM
#493
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Celebrated the new spark plug install by doing a 250 miles day in the mountains with some friends!!
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Hothonda (05-31-2021)
05-31-2021, 02:42 PM
#494
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Also..... As some know, I decided to be conservative and go back with a factory Y-pipe Sam had sent to me!! But in an effort to just see if I could prevent it from spliting open again like my failure, I used the rest of my JB Weld to Reinforce the Seam. NO clue if this will actually help but who knows. It was worth a try.
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Big Swole (05-31-2021)
05-31-2021, 04:03 PM
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I don't really see it helping much with containing pressure, but it can't really hurt. I would think safety wire wrapped around the outside and snugged tight would be better for containing pressure than epoxy. Or maybe safety wire, with epoxy on top of the wire to ensure it stays in position. But it also seems to be a fairly rare problem (at least without big boost tunes) that I don't see you having a problem either way.
You might be right but I figured at the very minimum I had some of that left over from trying to repair the one that burst. At the very minimum it can’t hurt and probably will strengthen it just slightly. I did 250 miles yesterday with a few wide open throttle runs and had no issues.