I Stepped Up AGAIN (991.2 Turbo S)
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Sam graciously shipped me a stock Y-pipe. I’m going to reinforce that seem where mine blew apart with JB Weld and use it.
i thought about doing aftermarket pipe, plenum, IC’s , and hoses but just decided to save the money. I would love more power but to be honest, for the mountains and track day every now and again, I really can’t use it. On the hwy., I’ll just risk getting in more trouble by going faster. lol
Maybe someday, but for now I’m trying to just be happy with what I’ve got. Just hope the stock y-pipe with reinforced seems will hold.
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onfireTTS (05-27-2021)
#468
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Also, the nature of the original failure is not so conducive to being 'stuck back together' as the internal pressure would always pushing against the original failure, and since the integrity of the original part has been compromised, a repeat failure is always more likely.
That coil looks like a real bugger.
That coil looks like a real bugger.
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Big Swole (05-27-2021)
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Hasn't anyone done a DIY thread on the 991 Turbo / Turbo S??? I thought I saw one one time but can't seem to find it. Only the reg. 991.
We dug into mine today and we can not believe how tight it is to get the coil / plug out on the drivers side Rear most hole! This was after we figured out that the IC's had to be removed also.
Anybody have a clue how you get it out of there?? Remove the Turbo? Exhaust? or just the turbo heat shield?? Will it move past at that point??
That turbo hanger is the main thing in the way.
Any other info that'll help us would greatly be appreciated.
![](https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ad137/BigSwole1255/001(122).jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
![](https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ad137/BigSwole1255/001(121).jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
We dug into mine today and we can not believe how tight it is to get the coil / plug out on the drivers side Rear most hole! This was after we figured out that the IC's had to be removed also.
Anybody have a clue how you get it out of there?? Remove the Turbo? Exhaust? or just the turbo heat shield?? Will it move past at that point??
That turbo hanger is the main thing in the way.
Any other info that'll help us would greatly be appreciated.
![](https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ad137/BigSwole1255/001(122).jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
![](https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ad137/BigSwole1255/001(121).jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
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Big Swole (05-27-2021)
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LOL, more more likely WTF?
I was just under my car and noticed the drivers side engine heat shield had one bolt missing and the other bolt was incorrect (hex instead of etorx, opposite side had correct bolts). Last shop to touch it was my local dealer when doing a warranty coil replacement due to misfires...
When I took delivery of my CPO Turbo, noticed another kind of important missing bolt that was not replaced after that dealer did a pre-delivery TSB and for the bumper heat shield as part of the CPO process.
I won't name names, but BOTH of these are large dealers with strong overall reputations, not some tiny dealer in the middle of nowhere.
Moral of the story? Just because you pay a bucket-load of cash and have a dealer do the work, don't assume it's done completely or correctly. I guess the upside is that perhaps ignorance is bliss if they really might skip a plug? At least until some 10K miles down the road when you get a misfire and they charge you to do it again...
I was just under my car and noticed the drivers side engine heat shield had one bolt missing and the other bolt was incorrect (hex instead of etorx, opposite side had correct bolts). Last shop to touch it was my local dealer when doing a warranty coil replacement due to misfires...
When I took delivery of my CPO Turbo, noticed another kind of important missing bolt that was not replaced after that dealer did a pre-delivery TSB and for the bumper heat shield as part of the CPO process.
I won't name names, but BOTH of these are large dealers with strong overall reputations, not some tiny dealer in the middle of nowhere.
Moral of the story? Just because you pay a bucket-load of cash and have a dealer do the work, don't assume it's done completely or correctly. I guess the upside is that perhaps ignorance is bliss if they really might skip a plug? At least until some 10K miles down the road when you get a misfire and they charge you to do it again...
Last edited by pfbz; 05-27-2021 at 04:21 PM.
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Big Swole (05-27-2021)
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This is now my worst worry actually. If for some reason we cannot get it done, and have to button everything back up and take it to a dealer, will they actually do that plug?
i’m hoping we can get it done so I will have the peace of mind that it was done and not just ripped off by the dealer that did not want to take the time and effort to do it
i’m hoping we can get it done so I will have the peace of mind that it was done and not just ripped off by the dealer that did not want to take the time and effort to do it
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You can't bend it out around that connection?
I thought the stems were narrower.
I thought the stems were narrower.
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Big Swole (05-27-2021)
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We didn't try really.. Seems many are saying it takes some pressure and some lube... lol
I guess we'll try all of that come the wknd. when we get back at it.
I'll keep you guys posted and maybe even try to get it on video so others can see how hard / easy / etc. it is, prior to making the choice I did...lol.
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On my 996 (I have not done these on the 991) the tube to the spark plug is flexible, I would think that Porsche would not engineer a simple maintenance item to require the engine to be dropped.
But hey, stranger things have happened.
But hey, stranger things have happened.
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Big Swole (05-27-2021)
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i had my front spoiler changed today and got to have s look it and tap the tech's brains on your problem. He thinks the only sensor input into the ECU is a magnetic switch on spoiler that trips when it deflates - he doesn't think there is a speed or airflow sensor that would do that and that there must be a leak somewhere - he suggests checking the connectors first. His theory is that pressurisation isn't enough to keep the magnetic contact above your speeds and that would trip a CEL necessitating a battery break reset.
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Big Swole (05-28-2021)
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i had my front spoiler changed today and got to have s look it and tap the tech's brains on your problem. He thinks the only sensor input into the ECU is a magnetic switch on spoiler that trips when it deflates - he doesn't think there is a speed or airflow sensor that would do that and that there must be a leak somewhere - he suggests checking the connectors first. His theory is that pressurisation isn't enough to keep the magnetic contact above your speeds and that would trip a CEL necessitating a battery break reset.
As for a leak, I just don't think there is.... Hence that there is NO problems and everything works perfect manually up to 77 MPH....Soon as I hit 78 MPH the code pops. Tried this multiple times. Pulled battery cable to reset...Works perfect (minus deploying at the 78 mph) when I deploy it manually.. Stays put and no code are anything until I cross the 78 MPH mark... Then the spoilers retract and the code pops... Never works again manually until I pull batter cable again.
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Any idea where these "connections" are and how to get to them?
As for a leak, I just don't think there is.... Hence that there is NO problems and everything works perfect manually up to 77 MPH....Soon as I hit 78 MPH the code pops. Tried this multiple times. Pulled battery cable to reset...Works perfect (minus deploying at the 78 mph) when I deploy it manually.. Stays put and no code are anything until I cross the 78 MPH mark... Then the spoilers retract and the code pops... Never works again manually until I pull batter cable again.
As for a leak, I just don't think there is.... Hence that there is NO problems and everything works perfect manually up to 77 MPH....Soon as I hit 78 MPH the code pops. Tried this multiple times. Pulled battery cable to reset...Works perfect (minus deploying at the 78 mph) when I deploy it manually.. Stays put and no code are anything until I cross the 78 MPH mark... Then the spoilers retract and the code pops... Never works again manually until I pull batter cable again.
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Big Swole (05-28-2021)
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We didn't try really.. Seems many are saying it takes some pressure and some lube... lol
I guess we'll try all of that come the wknd. when we get back at it.
I'll keep you guys posted and maybe even try to get it on video so others can see how hard / easy / etc. it is, prior to making the choice I did...lol.
I guess we'll try all of that come the wknd. when we get back at it.
I'll keep you guys posted and maybe even try to get it on video so others can see how hard / easy / etc. it is, prior to making the choice I did...lol.
Remove bracket bolt that's holding turbo
Undo the 3 bolts/studs holding turbo to manifold.
That should leave the turbo hanging, but not totally and should leave you with enough room to wiggle the hardlines/turbo down to make access for the ign coil/plug.
-Payam
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Big Swole (05-28-2021)