Alan C.

I've used the PI torque wrench along with a 42" breaker bar and the alignment tool. Switched out to a Matco 42" collapsible breaker bar. Current configuration is a 6X torque multiplier and a 1/2" digital reversible torque wrench. Both fit easily in the frunk. In my case this turned out to be the more costly solution. Get a good torque multiplier because it will multiply the error as well as the torque.

mundman

I ordered that tool 2 weeks ago. My snap on guy says tomorrow and then I'll have everything

bigkraig

Not a fan of the PI wrench? I can see how the multiplier might be more convenient.

Alan C.

I like the PI wrench. As you noted the multiplier is easier to pack and use. You just have to allow for the error. I found a place in Dayton that will check the calibration of my digital wrench and then test the stacking error of the wrench/multiplier combo.

Zulu Alpha

Side question: does anyone know if the CL failures were a cause of ill-fitment i.e the safety lock not being flush with the splines (operator error) OR a clear mechanical failure of something snapping?

Todd B

Yes, I was at an event a guy lost his rear wheel due to over torquing the center lock nut. This was a 997.2 gt3. Check the 997 forums there's several threads about failures. Follow the procedures, use the correct grease, and keep everything clean.

Zulu Alpha

Thanks Todd, Ah ok then! It's not a manufacturer error. I was under the impression CLs were snapping all over the place and that's why they are not popular among folks. This makes much more sense now, if it's operator error then, I no longer have to worry that a CL will snap off anymore likely than a 5 lug nut. So that explains why Porsche never switched CLs for 5 lugs in this GT3. Feel much better now... Feewwww!

montoya

I think you guys know what I think- but to reiterate, the long torque bar can slip of the nut if you aren't careful, this is the biggest downside. The other downsides are that you need the built-in torque wrench and pulling up is preferable to pulling down so you have to clear space on both ends of the car making working in tight spaces more difficult. Plus you need to change tools to remove or install the nut completely- basically it just takes longer and requires more space and planning.

The torque multiplier lets you use standard tools and yes the reaction bar must swing one way for tightening and the other for loosening, takes a second to turn around. Downside with the reaction bar is the force on the bar is very high, and can divot concrete and definitely asphalt, so I always used a piece of wood on the ground to keep that from happening. Plus you have way more control, there is almost zero chance of slipping off the nut since you are able to control it and can reach the head and stabilize it as you tighten or loosen.

montoya

It's wonderful working with the right tools, good luck!

Mech33

Good points. Convenience vs. accuracy...

I have a lift in my garage, but I don't think I have a ton of clearance in front of or behind the car for a 4-foot breaker bar. But getting something under the wheel for the reaction bar of the multiplier will be interesting as well because I'd have to hover the lift low to the ground below its first safety lock point. Will need to think about this further...

montoya

I forgot to mention that point, there is a +/- 10% accuracy rating on the gearing on the multiplier, as I stated earlier I just assume that is -10% and torque accordingly. Now, you can spend more for a multiplier with +/-4%:


http://www.norbar.com/products/view/...tid/18/id/2401

In this case you are probably inside the accuracy of most torque wrenches.

Mech33

Good find but youch, $650!

Todd B

I always thought with a multiplier it's the +/- accuracy of the torque wrench used x multiplier ratio, plus the additional in accuracy of the multiplier. Am I thinking wrong?

I used the PI torque wrench on the '11, did a lot a changes and never had issue, other then being a PITA dealing with the big wrench.

stronbl

This is a great thread and it is gratifying so many 991 GT3 owners are taking the installation and removal of central bolt wheels seriously. There is a lot of miss-information out there concerning the center bolt wheels, including but not limited to installation difficulty. It is not a difficult process, just an involved process requiring the correct tools - I only have experience with 997 central bolt wheels. Safe if done correctly, questionable to unsafe if short cuts are taken. The improvements in 991 CL mechanism vs 997 is also helpful and has a clearer visual look when either correctly or incorrectly locked - as per PAG documentation.

Looking forward to the further sharing of more personal experiences and lessons learned on the 991 GT3 wheel system so all of us can benefit and improve street and track safety.

rockitman

what improvements were done to the 991 CL's vs the 997 CL's ? How are they different ?