Originally Posted by Mike in CA

Another question: Is there any reason to favor a particular wheel centering tool? It's something I really feel I need with the PCCB's.

A version from Rennline includes a protective cap for the threads and a cap removal tool for $350. The Porsche version is $425. It has a threaded rod down the center with a hex head on one end that the Rennline version doesn't have. What's that for? Getting close to buying all the stuff I need for wheel removal so appreciate the input.

Originally Posted by CALSE

My guess is that the HEX nut is to set the centerlock inner locking mechanism. I used the tool that came with the car which serves to remove the cap and set the inner locking mechanism.

I opted to do without the guide, and just be extra careful when removing and re-installing the wheel. If I did have it, I would probably be too lazy next time since it is an extra step if I am trying to cut down the extra 20 mins. ;-)

Originally Posted by Mike in CA

All the guides are pricey, and I'd love to pass on them, but if I managed to chip a $4K ceramic rotor I'd be pretty unhappy with myself. The locking mechanism is easy to set with the tool you mention or even a 1/2" socket extension so if that hex piece on the Porsche part is the only difference, I'll probably go with the Rennline and save myself $75.

Originally Posted by doubleurx

So for a wheel change, what am I looking at? 1. Breaker bar 2. Crazy *** torque wrench ( are these digital?) 3. Some stupid expensive grease (added just to **** you off) 4. A $400 alignment tool. 5. A bottle of Stanahans. Does that cover it?

Originally Posted by CALSE

Don't forget the disposable latex gloves! Otherwise pay $500+ to dealer every time.:-(

Originally Posted by doubleurx

Don't those come free with the grease?.....

Originally Posted by CALSE

To help with my efficiency, I will probably purchase another centerlock nut tool.

I just bought a 3/4-inch x 20 inch long breaker bar from Harbor Freight Tools for $20 and a 1-inch diameter x 48-inch long galvanized pipe for extension for $16 from Home Depot so next time I don't have to switch between my combo breaker/torque wrench.

Originally Posted by Mike in CA

Thanks Nick, I'd forgotten about that. The vid isn't loading for me right now (getting error message) but I'll try later and see if it shows what I'm looking for.

Edit: Ok so I watched again. The crucial bit of info I'm looking for is just out of the video frame. It's hard to tell whether the spreader is braced against the seat cushion itself or a more solid piece of the seat under the cushion. I suppose this might become obvious once I try it for myself, but I was curious in advance...

Originally Posted by CALSE

To help with my efficiency, I will probably purchase another centerlock nut tool.

I just bought a 3/4-inch x 20 inch long breaker bar from Harbor Freight Tools for $20 and a 1-inch diameter x 48-inch long galvanized pipe for extension for $16 from Home Depot so next time I don't have to switch between my combo breaker/torque wrench.

Originally Posted by montoya

I always used the bottom of the GT2 seat with my Irwin clamp since it's steel and can take a lot of pressure. Looks like Paver uses a longer clamp and puts it against the cushion, looks easier than the bottom of the seat and I'm not sure that the sofa seats have the same piece underneath.

Also, another plug for a torque multiplier, a long levered wrench always seems awkward and easy to slip off the nut.

Originally Posted by montoya

^Bam, look above I knew you would ask! That's the one I have, works great!

There is mechanical loses in the mechanism so you should factor that in your torque wrench settings, this one is +/-10% so I always set my wrench for 120 lbs instead of 111 lbs (444 lbs/4).

Originally Posted by montoya

Don't do it! Spend your money on the right tools:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....e=&dir=catalog