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Do you feel the the shift from .1 to .2 is worth it? What’s your objective? I ask purely on curiosity.
Ehh that’s a tough question. I go back and forth with my feelings as to whether or not it’s worth it. I guess at the end of the day, is it something that’d make me happy? The answer is yes for me. I can’t discredit the .1 as it too is a fantastic car and a ton of fun to drive. I’d really like a WP car and that obviously isn’t an option for the .1.
Ehh that’s a tough question. I go back and forth with my feelings as to whether or not it’s worth it. I guess at the end of the day, is it something that’d make me happy? The answer is yes for me. I can’t discredit the .1 as it too is a fantastic car and a ton of fun to drive. I’d really like a WP car and that obviously isn’t an option for the .1.
fair enough. I can respect that. Ihave a .2 GT3 manual and am strongly considering a .2 RS WP but i have no idea.My gut is helpless right now too. I guess i was kinda hoping you would have some unbelievable reason for the upgrade that would somehow help me. 😂
fair enough. I can respect that. Ihave a .2 GT3 manual and am strongly considering a .2 RS WP but i have no idea.My gut is helpless right now too. I guess i was kinda hoping you would have some unbelievable reason for the upgrade that would somehow help me. 😂
guess i was unintentionally being selfish.
I made the exact same switch that you are considering and yes, it is more than worth it both in looks and most certainly in performance.
Hello Everyone. We have another 991.2 GT3 Touring incoming. GT Silver with buckets, front lift, and full leather interior. If interested please send me a DM or email at scott@grahamrahalperformance.com
The question posed was: is the move from a 991.1 to a 991.2 worth it, I believe. There are a few significant changes to the motor between the .1 and .2 that I believe will lead to better longevity and certainly has more power/torque when measured at the wheels. (I know the stated values are nearly identical, but dyno runs on stock motors tell a pretty different story). Dundon has a great side-by-side dyno comparison.
The question posed was: is the move from a 991.1 to a 991.2 worth it, I believe. There are a few significant changes to the motor between the .1 and .2 that I believe will lead to better longevity and certainly has more power/torque when measured at the wheels.
I can't be optimistic on future values for the 991.1 GT3...
The ten year warranty cliff is fast approaching. Most of them have never been driven in a way that would trigger the finger follower failure (or driven at all for that matter), kicking the "failure can" down the road for a future enthusiast owner. Pretty sure this will translate to a market adjustment, likely for *all* 991.1 GT3s latest engine or not.
I personally see a few decent options concerning 991.1 GT3 purchase:
.
Buy one and drive the crap out of it for the next two years until you get a failure and the latest version engine.
Buy one that already has the latest version engine.
Buy one with original engine, always baby it, and keep it forever.
Buy one and plan on selling it before the cliff (fairly risky).
Buy one at such a good deal, it won't hurt so much if it needs an engine post warranty.
Skip the 991.1, pay the extra for the 991.2, and avoid the hassle of engine replacement and risk of future devaluation.
I can't be optimistic on future values for the 991.1 GT3...
The ten year warranty cliff is fast approaching. Most of them have never been driven in a way that would trigger the finger follower failure (or driven at all for that matter), kicking the "failure can" down the road for a future enthusiast owner. Pretty sure this will translate to a market adjustment, likely for *all* 991.1 GT3s latest engine or not.
I personally see a few decent options concerning 991.1 GT3 purchase:
.
Buy one and drive the crap out of it for the next two years until you get a failure and the latest rev engine.
Buy one that already has the latest gen engine.
Buy one with original engine, always baby it, and keep it forever.
Buy one and plan on selling it before the cliff (fairly risky).
Buy one at such a good deal, it won't hurt so much if it needs an engine post warranty.
Skip the 991.1, pay the extra for the 991.2, and avoid the hassle of engine replacement and risk of future devaluation.
By that same logic why are the 997 GT3's trading where they are? Coolant line failures, LSD failures, etc. and there is no warranty - crap cars really.
I can't be optimistic on future values for the 991.1 GT3...
The ten year warranty cliff is fast approaching. Most of them have never been driven in a way that would trigger the finger follower failure (or driven at all for that matter), kicking the "failure can" down the road for a future enthusiast owner. Pretty sure this will translate to a market adjustment, likely for *all* 991.1 GT3s latest engine or not.
I personally see a few decent options concerning 991.1 GT3 purchase:
.
Buy one and drive the crap out of it for the next two years until you get a failure and the latest rev engine.
Buy one that already has the latest gen engine.
Buy one with original engine, always baby it, and keep it forever.
Buy one and plan on selling it before the cliff (fairly risky).
Buy one at such a good deal, it won't hurt so much if it needs an engine post warranty.
Skip the 991.1, pay the extra for the 991.2, and avoid the hassle of engine replacement and risk of future devaluation.
#1 & #2 are great options. #1 requires actual track time and not "canyon runs" or other confused mediums of pushing the car.
#3 is great for the C&C type of person
#4 is riddled with risk
#6 I would just wait, the 992's haven't been flying off the line has fast as they should. this will eventually correct. But this will certainly impact the .1's as well.
I can't be optimistic on future values for the 991.1 GT3...
The ten year warranty cliff is fast approaching. Most of them have never been driven in a way that would trigger the finger follower failure (or driven at all for that matter), kicking the "failure can" down the road for a future enthusiast owner. Pretty sure this will translate to a market adjustment, likely for *all* 991.1 GT3s latest engine or not.
I personally see a few decent options concerning 991.1 GT3 purchase:
.
Buy one and drive the crap out of it for the next two years until you get a failure and the latest rev engine.
Buy one that already has the latest gen engine.
Buy one with original engine, always baby it, and keep it forever.
Buy one and plan on selling it before the cliff (fairly risky).
Buy one at such a good deal, it won't hurt so much if it needs an engine post warranty.
Skip the 991.1, pay the extra for the 991.2, and avoid the hassle of engine replacement and risk of future devaluation.
You forget 1 more option.
7. Get the car for a steal of a price after all is said and done, take it to Dundon and get an epic motor build. Jamie at Dundon has a fix + upgrade ready to go but put it on the shelf after the Porsche extended the warranty.
By that same logic why are the 997 GT3's trading where they are? Coolant line failures, LSD failures, etc. and there is no warranty - crap cars really.
Not the same at all...
Mezger engine coolant lines can be preventatively addressed at a reasonable cost, and even if they fail, does not cause catastrophic engine damage. LSD's have always kind of sucked in Porsche for longevity, again, lots of aftermarket solutions at fairly reasonable prices. But i you have a finger follower engine failure post warranty, you are talking HUGE repair costs. Doesn't seem all that hard to grasp.
05-08-2022, 09:45 PM
