968 Supercharger Kit Development
#662
I`m more than happy, now.
The on road performance will be a few days yet as I have to remove the PU to locate the air filter.
I`ts been a rocky road, not least because this car has never had an air con fitted so a few tweeks needed along the way, as in relocating the alternator with an a/c alt bracket, finding a belt long enough, 3rd attempt, finding a turnbuckle short enough to get belt tension, (still ongoing), getting the damn radiator far enough forward to mount the SC unit and work getting in the way. But we are there, just final on road adjusting of the mixtures, then off to find a rolling road.
Great kit, well engineered and brilliantly set up for the 968, the power the car has always longed for.
The on road performance will be a few days yet as I have to remove the PU to locate the air filter.
I`ts been a rocky road, not least because this car has never had an air con fitted so a few tweeks needed along the way, as in relocating the alternator with an a/c alt bracket, finding a belt long enough, 3rd attempt, finding a turnbuckle short enough to get belt tension, (still ongoing), getting the damn radiator far enough forward to mount the SC unit and work getting in the way. But we are there, just final on road adjusting of the mixtures, then off to find a rolling road.
Great kit, well engineered and brilliantly set up for the 968, the power the car has always longed for.
#663
Developer
Thread Starter
Edz, I'd leave those stock injectors in there for the moment.
Lets get it tuned and drive it.
IF we find that the FMU alone cannot supply enough fuel at the top end, THEN we will install the larger injectors.
Watch your A/F gauge. As the RPM climbs under load to redline, the AFR should stay below 13:1.
If you find that the AFR is climbing towards lean, then the injectors cannot keep up and we need to install the larger ones.
Adjust the FMU top screw so that the FMU "comes in" when the boost comes in, about 3500 rpm.
That means... at speeds below 3500 rpm, the A/F gauge should hunt as is normal for engines once they go into closed loop Lambda (warm engine). You can tell when the FMU comes in because the A/F gauge will stop hunting, and hold steady at 12.5:1 or so (maximum power).
Lets get it tuned and drive it.
IF we find that the FMU alone cannot supply enough fuel at the top end, THEN we will install the larger injectors.
Watch your A/F gauge. As the RPM climbs under load to redline, the AFR should stay below 13:1.
If you find that the AFR is climbing towards lean, then the injectors cannot keep up and we need to install the larger ones.
Adjust the FMU top screw so that the FMU "comes in" when the boost comes in, about 3500 rpm.
That means... at speeds below 3500 rpm, the A/F gauge should hunt as is normal for engines once they go into closed loop Lambda (warm engine). You can tell when the FMU comes in because the A/F gauge will stop hunting, and hold steady at 12.5:1 or so (maximum power).
#664
Developer
Thread Starter
Thanks for the reminder, Edz, that your 968 is sans AC.
To all: our kit was engineered to fit on a AC-equipped 968 and allow the AC to remain and function.
In fact, the belt tensioner on the AC is neccesary to tension the belt!
On Edz 968 without AC, he had to relocate the alternator up to where it is placed on AC-equipped cars, and I am helping him locate a turnbuckle to tension the belt by swinging the alternator in-out. That made his install a bit more involved than our normal install.
I dont know how many of these factory-delete 968's without AC there are, does anybody know?
To all: our kit was engineered to fit on a AC-equipped 968 and allow the AC to remain and function.
In fact, the belt tensioner on the AC is neccesary to tension the belt!
On Edz 968 without AC, he had to relocate the alternator up to where it is placed on AC-equipped cars, and I am helping him locate a turnbuckle to tension the belt by swinging the alternator in-out. That made his install a bit more involved than our normal install.
I dont know how many of these factory-delete 968's without AC there are, does anybody know?
#665
Thanks for the reminder, Edz, that your 968 is sans AC.
To all: our kit was engineered to fit on a AC-equipped 968 and allow the AC to remain and function.
In fact, the belt tensioner on the AC is neccesary to tension the belt!
On Edz 968 without AC, he had to relocate the alternator up to where it is placed on AC-equipped cars, and I am helping him locate a turnbuckle to tension the belt by swinging the alternator in-out. That made his install a bit more involved than our normal install.
I dont know how many of these factory-delete 968's without AC there are, does anybody know?
To all: our kit was engineered to fit on a AC-equipped 968 and allow the AC to remain and function.
In fact, the belt tensioner on the AC is neccesary to tension the belt!
On Edz 968 without AC, he had to relocate the alternator up to where it is placed on AC-equipped cars, and I am helping him locate a turnbuckle to tension the belt by swinging the alternator in-out. That made his install a bit more involved than our normal install.
I dont know how many of these factory-delete 968's without AC there are, does anybody know?
#666
#667
Developer
Thread Starter
If its common enough, I can plan for it. We have a few of the brackets for an AC-equipped car (used) which the non-AC car needs to install in order to relocate the alternator. I will have the adjusting turnbuckle sorted out as soon as Edz gets the dimensions to me. Then add the shorter drive belt, and that should be it.
#670
I have also remove the AC on my CS & I have the same issues than edz968s...that is too say : Find a short turnbuckle & drive belt ! I prefer buy a kit direct from Carl rather than look for somethingelse...
For information, the dimension required for the turnbuckle is very short : 2 to 3 " is enough...
For information, the dimension required for the turnbuckle is very short : 2 to 3 " is enough...
#671
Yes, it`s about 12mm of adjustment. What set up have you got fitted and have you sourced a belt? I have a rudimentary turnbuckle fitted, it`s an old sway bar mount, but I have to lever the alternator up and it`s adjustable in 1 plane. Have you re-located the SC intake, to point at the SC head.
#672
Cause I had no turnbuckle & new belt, I put back the AC comp. !
Regarding the SC inlet, I have not relocate it .... I have problem at idle, but Carl has sent a new part to improve the system...
As i will finished the head gasket assembly, I will test the complete kit with the new part
Regarding the SC inlet, I have not relocate it .... I have problem at idle, but Carl has sent a new part to improve the system...
As i will finished the head gasket assembly, I will test the complete kit with the new part
#673
Reposition the inlet and your idle will be better as mentioned. I`ve been out in mine today and not good, the car kept stalling after coming off the throttle, would back-fire then go, but would`nt idle, the a/f meter showed a good mix, but this was below 4500rpm, still a fueling issue, not confident enough to boot it to the red line yet.
#674
Finally, it runs, beautifuly.
I put on another new FPR, fitted the larger injectors and runs sweet.
On road it feels quick, overtaking is much, much improved. Will need to get to a RR for final tweaking, but brilliant. Worth it in the end, nice one Carl
The final install.
I put on another new FPR, fitted the larger injectors and runs sweet.
On road it feels quick, overtaking is much, much improved. Will need to get to a RR for final tweaking, but brilliant. Worth it in the end, nice one Carl
The final install.
#675
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia (Formerly: Sunnyvale, CA)
Posts: 2,120
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Congratulations! Looks like a very clean install -- almost factory. Only thing that looks a bit ragged is the top of the new radiator -- looks like a bit of wear and tear there. Did you say you had trouble getting it forward enough?