edz968s

I did have to move it further forward than the manual suggested. What bit of the radiator do you refer to as ragged?

Mark944na86

The top of the radiator, in front of the lower radiator hose, coming off the t-stat housing, in the photo. Looks a bit chewed up? Maybe I'm not seeing what's in the photo correctly.

edz968s

No, nothing chewed, that`s melted glue from when I had insulation between it and the air box. Since cleaned off

Jfrahm

I finally got around to moving my MAF under the front valance and the car is running perfectly now. Before I had a bouncy idle and I had to heel-toe to keep the car running if I lifted the throttle suddenly from high RPM. Now the car never drops below idle speed, no wavering or bounce, no annoyances. If I lift throttle and declutch at 4000 RPM it just drops to idle speed without sagging, dying or any drama.

It's fast too.

I had some scrap 3" intake tubing in the shop so I cut a piece off that had a slight J bend to it and put that in place of the MAF. About an 8" piece fit, I found, after test fitting the rest of the intake plumbing with the MAF refitted after the air filter. I currently have the MAF and filter ziptied to the front valance but it should probably be attached to a bracket or something less flexible and liable to encounter something.

-Joel.

edz968s

Have you got or fitted the `honeycomb` filter after the MAF?

Jfrahm

Yes, I tried that honeycomb and it might have helped a little but not a lot. I had been running a Volvo MAF with screen on both ends that had a similar effect, it reduced the idle bounce but did not eliminate it. Currently I am running the Porsche MAF with the air filter fitted directly to it and the two 90 degree elbows downstream of that.

To optimize my setup I think it'd be best to trim back the SC inlet elbow so it points more directly towards the elbow that pokes under the valance and then use maybe a 10" section of 3" tubing where the MAF normally goes. then some sort of more sensible mount for the MAF and filter.

Oh, I am also running a grooved reversing idler, it is not a perfect fit for the belt grooves but I like it better than the supplied idler. Dayco 89012 or Duralast (Autozone) 231082.

http://www.amazon.com/Dayco-89012-Te.../dp/B000C0WOXE

-Joel.

Carl Fausett

Yes - almost factory in appearance. Very clean and workman-like. You can be proud of it Ed! Good job!

odb812

That car also appears to have a lot of money in silicone. Very woman-like as well.

Nice looking engine bay Ed. Let's see the car.

Jfrahm

Also that flange on the engine side of the radiator is for the factory fan shroud, which is not used in this application. You could trim it back a ways and pick up some clearance for the SC head, then not have to shift the radiator as far forward.

-Joel.

edz968s

Pic of car, in it`s natural enviroment

odb812

Nice! Are those FRH 3-piece Cup IIs?

Jfrahm

For clarification - Carl emailed me and suggested I might have a pre-production version of the air return manifold (what Carl calls the BOV Spill Tube) that lacks a tube to direct the return air straight towards the SC inlet. This is the elbow at the SC inlet that also has a nipple for the recirculation hose.

It appears I do have an early version of this part so the production kits might not have the same idle problems I had.

Also I found a cracked vacuum hose, part of the vapor recovery system, not sure if that had any effect. My vacuum reading at idle was always a bit low.

-Joel.

edz968s

I found exactly the same perished vucuum hose, pain to get at. Starter motor has packed up now

Mark944na86

Nice looking example.

hot-J

any dyno numbers on this yet?